Chteau Margaux 2000 Pavillon Rouge du Chteau Margaux (Margaux) Lush, sultry, slutty, whorehouse Bordeaux. I dont mean that as a bad thing, necessarily, but the lurid aromatics and the very particular texturewell, I can see why certain critics tend towards describing wines such as this in pornographic terms, because the lingo fits. Theres plenty of structure, but its oh-so-plushy and New World, and the dark fruit is expansive and soft. That said, theres tobacco and pepper dust (more on the fruit than the spice side of pepper), and it is recognizable as Bordeaux. But modern Bordeaux, for sure. I find it impossible to not like, despite any stylistic reservations. Surprisingly drinkable now, but theres far from any hurry to get to it; I suspect theres a lot more development to come. (5/10)
Chteau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1988 Pauillac (Bordeaux) Tobacco ash and gravel with a light dusting of pepper and the scent of dried roses. Still quite structured, of course, but showing really fine balance and just enough suggestions of maturity that its worth an experimental sampling. (5/10)
Raynaud Chteau Quinault lEnclos 1998 Saint-milion (Bordeaux) Green cranberry, tobacco ash, and oak tannins that lend even more Kermit-hued underripeness to the blend. Biting and unpleasant, with a short finish. Leaves a residue of dried blueberries. One is forced to ask of the wine: why? (6/10)
Chteau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1988 Pauillac (Bordeaux) Tobacco ash and gravel with a light dusting of pepper and the scent of dried roses. Still quite structured, of course, but showing really fine balance and just enough suggestions of maturity that its worth an experimental sampling. (5/10)
Raynaud Chteau Quinault lEnclos 1998 Saint-milion (Bordeaux) Green cranberry, tobacco ash, and oak tannins that lend even more Kermit-hued underripeness to the blend. Biting and unpleasant, with a short finish. Leaves a residue of dried blueberries. One is forced to ask of the wine: why? (6/10)