kirk wallace
kirk wallace
Impromptu gathering on a lovely roof top deck in the east village (thank you Will) on one of the few pretty evenings we've had in NYC this summer. Bo Ssam take out and other goodies for food. Among many tasty and interesting bottles (many thanks to Joe Salamone and Stephen Bitterolf), 3 stood out in a good way and another just stood out:
Prager Riesling Smaragd Kaiserberg 1997 -- in great shape; spectacular from the get go, and after 30 minutes in decanter a real work of art -- opulent nose but super clean. This benefited from the richness of the '97 Wachau vintage but is not weighed down the way some (not me, FWIW) find dislikable with the '97 Hirtzberger Singerriedel. It is rich but not at all heavy; great mineral cage, but of the finest, purest strutts. The fruit dances in and around the frame, all the while making those of us tasting it pause every few moments to smile and say penetrating things like "amazing"; "really great"; and "delicious". Not surprisingly, Oliver Haag was equally a fan, albeit more articulate and precise. I think this was my last bottle of this, but if you have this in your cellar, you could happily open it now, but my guess is that it will also continue to hold at this level for at least 5 years. Given the acidity and the mineral density, I also would love to see what it turns into in the 10-15 year range.
Keller Kirchspiel Grosses Gewchs 2007 OK. I am beginning to get Keller. Having been lucky enough to have a few friends open various Keller GG's and even G Max's for me over the past year or 2, and, churlishly, my not being terribly moved by them, this bottle could be an entry point for me. Awesome balance and poise in the mouth, and more than just a mouthful of crushed rock. There was delicate and beautiful, delicate (like a dry essence of white-peach and yellow cherry) fruit and the minerality played nicely with the fruit: layers and layers and reverb. I'd still take the Prager or an FXP from a comparable vintage, but this was a very fine drink. Thank you Joe and Stephen.
F. Haag BJS Auslese GK 1983 Thanks to Gene for this bottle. A crumbling cork gave us all some anxiety, but Oliver was ultimately good enough to coax out what his father had put in. The wine was not flawed. The wine was great. Pale to medium gold; still plenty of sweetness but starting to mature into that wonderous middle ground of richness without unctuousness. Awesome lengnth on this. Fills your whole head with flavor -- yellowing pears and hints of nectarine -- yet never weighs down the palate or feels cloying. Each sip just made me want another.
Hiedler "Maximum" Weissburgunder 1998 -- Utterly weird; still plenty of acidity, but the tropical, botyris smells and flavors overwhelmed me. Actually a nice touch of oxidative notes and tastes lurking in the glass as well. We all wanted a strong washed-rind cheese (or something even more mind altering) with this. As it was, it turned out that Will's fresh corn, bacon and miso butter (a la Chang) dish went really well with this. I don't recall ever having opened a bottle of this before, and am very happy I did last night, but more in an educational than sybaritic way.
Prager Riesling Smaragd Kaiserberg 1997 -- in great shape; spectacular from the get go, and after 30 minutes in decanter a real work of art -- opulent nose but super clean. This benefited from the richness of the '97 Wachau vintage but is not weighed down the way some (not me, FWIW) find dislikable with the '97 Hirtzberger Singerriedel. It is rich but not at all heavy; great mineral cage, but of the finest, purest strutts. The fruit dances in and around the frame, all the while making those of us tasting it pause every few moments to smile and say penetrating things like "amazing"; "really great"; and "delicious". Not surprisingly, Oliver Haag was equally a fan, albeit more articulate and precise. I think this was my last bottle of this, but if you have this in your cellar, you could happily open it now, but my guess is that it will also continue to hold at this level for at least 5 years. Given the acidity and the mineral density, I also would love to see what it turns into in the 10-15 year range.
Keller Kirchspiel Grosses Gewchs 2007 OK. I am beginning to get Keller. Having been lucky enough to have a few friends open various Keller GG's and even G Max's for me over the past year or 2, and, churlishly, my not being terribly moved by them, this bottle could be an entry point for me. Awesome balance and poise in the mouth, and more than just a mouthful of crushed rock. There was delicate and beautiful, delicate (like a dry essence of white-peach and yellow cherry) fruit and the minerality played nicely with the fruit: layers and layers and reverb. I'd still take the Prager or an FXP from a comparable vintage, but this was a very fine drink. Thank you Joe and Stephen.
F. Haag BJS Auslese GK 1983 Thanks to Gene for this bottle. A crumbling cork gave us all some anxiety, but Oliver was ultimately good enough to coax out what his father had put in. The wine was not flawed. The wine was great. Pale to medium gold; still plenty of sweetness but starting to mature into that wonderous middle ground of richness without unctuousness. Awesome lengnth on this. Fills your whole head with flavor -- yellowing pears and hints of nectarine -- yet never weighs down the palate or feels cloying. Each sip just made me want another.
Hiedler "Maximum" Weissburgunder 1998 -- Utterly weird; still plenty of acidity, but the tropical, botyris smells and flavors overwhelmed me. Actually a nice touch of oxidative notes and tastes lurking in the glass as well. We all wanted a strong washed-rind cheese (or something even more mind altering) with this. As it was, it turned out that Will's fresh corn, bacon and miso butter (a la Chang) dish went really well with this. I don't recall ever having opened a bottle of this before, and am very happy I did last night, but more in an educational than sybaritic way.