Rosebank (Gordon & MacPhail) Connoisseurs Choice 16 Year Old (Lowland) Refilled Sherry casks, triple-distilled, 46% alcohol, $70-80. Apple flowers, light and fuzzy, with a clean, simple nose. The palate introduces tropical fruit and apricot skin, but remains simple and clean. Just OK. (2/08)
Benromach (Gordon & MacPhail) 21 Year Old (Speyside) First-refill Sherry casks, $110. Paper and old furniture turned to ash, toffee, espresso dust, and raw wood, with a finish of apple that hints at cider. Long and lingering, with hints of bitter chocolate at the very end. Complex. (2/08)
Glen Grant (Gordon & MacPhail) 21 Year Old (Highland) Sherry casks, $110. Coconut and rough wood, baking spices (nutmeg and clove), and while its harsh without the mellowing effect of a little water, it eventually turns beautiful and rather supple, showing mixed chocolates, hints of fruit, and toffee cream. Very nice. (2/08)
Glen Grant (Gordon & MacPhail) 1965 (Highland) Sherry casks, $175-200. Sour peat, humid wood, and summer leaves. Then theres lemongrass, full-bodied spice and chocolate, followed by a finish of smooth apricot and orange. Round and full, with intensity, complexity, and passion. Stunning. (2/08)
Caol Ila (Gordon & MacPhail) Connoisseurs Choice 1982 (Islay) Sherry casks, 46% alcohol, $150. Peat smoke, iodine, dried meat and the leather that used to enclose it, with exotic flowers and confiture (mostly Mirabelle plum, but theres Rainer cherry and peach as well). Unbelievably good, and for me the star of the tasting, though a very strong argument could be made for the Glen Grant 1965 as well. (2/08)
Lochside (Gordon & MacPhail) Connoisseurs Choice 1991 (Highland) Refilled bourbon casks, 43% alcohol, $65-70. Pastry with coffee residue, like the last dregs of a morning stop in a Parisian caf, then espresso, stale toffee, almonds, hazelnut, and the drying, slightly acrid smell of flor. Flor? Yes, flor. A very dry style. Weird. (2/08)
Benromach (Gordon & MacPhail) Organic (Speyside) One of the first organic whiskies. $55-60, 43% alcohol. Toffee-coated apples dipped in maple syrup, pinapple, banana, and lush milk-chocolate sweetness, with orange-chocolate candies on the finish. This is too simple-minded for me. (2/08)
Benromach (Gordon & MacPhail) 21 Year Old (Speyside) First-refill Sherry casks, $110. Paper and old furniture turned to ash, toffee, espresso dust, and raw wood, with a finish of apple that hints at cider. Long and lingering, with hints of bitter chocolate at the very end. Complex. (2/08)
Glen Grant (Gordon & MacPhail) 21 Year Old (Highland) Sherry casks, $110. Coconut and rough wood, baking spices (nutmeg and clove), and while its harsh without the mellowing effect of a little water, it eventually turns beautiful and rather supple, showing mixed chocolates, hints of fruit, and toffee cream. Very nice. (2/08)
Glen Grant (Gordon & MacPhail) 1965 (Highland) Sherry casks, $175-200. Sour peat, humid wood, and summer leaves. Then theres lemongrass, full-bodied spice and chocolate, followed by a finish of smooth apricot and orange. Round and full, with intensity, complexity, and passion. Stunning. (2/08)
Caol Ila (Gordon & MacPhail) Connoisseurs Choice 1982 (Islay) Sherry casks, 46% alcohol, $150. Peat smoke, iodine, dried meat and the leather that used to enclose it, with exotic flowers and confiture (mostly Mirabelle plum, but theres Rainer cherry and peach as well). Unbelievably good, and for me the star of the tasting, though a very strong argument could be made for the Glen Grant 1965 as well. (2/08)
Lochside (Gordon & MacPhail) Connoisseurs Choice 1991 (Highland) Refilled bourbon casks, 43% alcohol, $65-70. Pastry with coffee residue, like the last dregs of a morning stop in a Parisian caf, then espresso, stale toffee, almonds, hazelnut, and the drying, slightly acrid smell of flor. Flor? Yes, flor. A very dry style. Weird. (2/08)
Benromach (Gordon & MacPhail) Organic (Speyside) One of the first organic whiskies. $55-60, 43% alcohol. Toffee-coated apples dipped in maple syrup, pinapple, banana, and lush milk-chocolate sweetness, with orange-chocolate candies on the finish. This is too simple-minded for me. (2/08)