2005 Domaine Saint-Damien Gigondas Les Souteyrades
Baking spices on the nose, suggesting some oak influence, but the palate is not overly oaky. Vibrant red fruits on the palate, cherry kirsch, spice box and lavender. Really nice palate, showing good complexities and lively red fruits. Ripe, but not at all raisiny. The tannins seem fuzzier than the last bottle some eight months ago, yet the tannins show rather dry on the finish. This is evolving nicely. UPDATE: this has now been open 24+ hours, and it shows no oxidation or degradation. It is, however, showing its oak on the palate, showing more of a darker fruited palate
2005 Domaine de Marcoux Chteauneuf-du-Pape
I opened this along with steaks prepared for my parents who visited. After they left, around midnight, the rest of the family asleep, I sat on the deck of my new house and watched the stars, especially bright Mars just beneath the Moon. It provided the perfect setting to contemplate this '05 Marcoux that had by then been open for some five hours and was singing.
Initially, a smooth and cohesive CdP, primary black raspberry fruit, but not showing much development or complexity. Five hours later, the detail had emerged. The nose developed nuances of firewood, light mesquite and garrigue. On the palate, it's like a bowl of macerated cherries, a touch of brown spice and cigar box. The finish is a touch dry, the tannins definitely still present, but very streamlined. The wine is delicious and has grown complex with air, but hasn't yet gotten to point of sweet fruit. Long finish showing spices. Liked this one a lot, way more than an '01 Marcoux CdP a few nights prior that was diffuse and sharp. This '05 still has the strength of youth, but with some secondary development. No degradation overnight, the wine shows good focus and balance and is very enjoyable. In a good place now, but with lots of upside for the future.
2001 Domaine de Marcoux Chteauneuf-du-Pape
Huge blackberry nose at first, bright and inviting, I was looking forward to drinking this. But then it takes a turn, the fruit losing its focus and showing more worn, then prune and raisin, with leather and spice on the palate. This should be in its prime, with a cohesive palate, but I would describe it as exactly the opposite: Diffuse. The tannins are smoothed, but there is no midpalate interest, no fruit sweetness, and little richness. The finish is rather sharp. Disappointing.
2004 Chteau de Saint-Cosme Gigondas
Very interesting wine, and the oak is more absorbed than as recently as ten months ago when the oak was way too overt. It's still a bit woody, but in a rustic, underbrush way, along with lots of dark plums, cherries and a really interesting apple skin quality. It's not as chocolate/mocha oaky as in the past. The tannin is softening, the acidity vibrant. It's a touch sharp on the finish. The wine can still be cellared and improve, given the last ten months of considerable improvement. Definitely dark and modern, with obvious polish and flash, the alcohol is high, but the "red" is showing more than the chocolate/oak/brown, and the fruit is vibrant and rich. Six years has been kind and has tamed this wine.
2004 Le Vieux Donjon Chteauneuf-du-Pape
Pleasing, elegant CdP, not a "tour de force" and without "gobs of fruit", which means that to my palate, this wine is just fine. The fruit is very clean, with cherry and a core of red raspberry, cocoa, and a bit of rusticity around the edges. Opens up by the second night, broadens horizontally on the palate as well as vertically with additional depth of fruit, garrigue, and the trademark Donjon attribute of melted black truffle, brown spice and animal fur. The tannin also comes out more on the second night, suggesting that any initial impression of weakness or lack of fortitude may be premature. Drink now with a decant or let it age for a few more years.
2004 Clos du Mont-Olivet Chteauneuf-du-Pape La Cuve du Papet
Opened this to contrast with the 2000 Cuvee Papet that I opened the prior night. The '00, soft and ready. This '04, still young and firm. The '00, more resolved plummy fruit, broad and expansive on the palate, soft around the edges, with resolved tannins. This '04, more primary, direct and linear, as opposed to broad. This '04 shows younger, more taut purple fruit, tannins still grippy. Drink the '00 now, age this '04 longer.
2000 Clos du Mont-Olivet Chteauneuf-du-Pape La Cuve du Papet
This is ready. Mouthfeel is resolved and smooth, the fruit nicely developed and integrated with secondaries, garrigue, hint of tomato, the palate more pink/lavender/garrigue than primary reds or blacks; tannin very soft. Drink now.
1998 Clos du Mont-Olivet Chteauneuf-du-Pape La Cuve du Papet
Began with surprising notes of red currant and pomegranate and then that mealy, fetid meat taste of TCA. Every single bottle from this batch has been corked or otherwise off.
2001 Domaine de la Vieille Julienne Chteauneuf-du-Pape
A curious wine. On the first night, I was ready to write this wine off, as it was rather dull, advanced, and showed little richness. Then I noticed my friend Peter's positive note and thought I should give this wine another chance. On the second night (after transfer to a .375 and overnight in the fridge), the wine is more expressive. It's more autumnal, with potpourri on the nose and resolved cherry and wood spice notes on the palate, the finish showing more underlying fruit than the first night, and yet still there is a dryness on the sides of the tongue alongside fruit richness which has finally emerged. So, I'm not sure what to think. Will additional time in the cellar make this a better, richer, more complex or more interesting wine, or will the dryness become more pronounced? My bet is that the wine is drying out and that at close to ten years old, this wine is as good as it will it ever be. While the tannin is smoothed out, the acidity is still notable, so there may be enough structure to carry it further, although I'm not confident that it will become much better.
2001 Domaine Charvin Chteauneuf-du-Pape
Solid. Kirsch liqueur and pure red fruit palate. The tannins are silky smooth but still show a bit of firmness, suggesting a bit more cellaring needed. The fruit seems to have come right up to the line but never crosses over-ripe. Remarkable balance. I was surprised how young this wine showed this time. Hold. Pulled this for our first weekend in our new house.
2001 Chteau du Mourre du Tendre Chteauneuf-du-Pape Cuve Tradition
Further ahead in its evolution than my last bottle in August 2009 at Tribeca Grill, the tannin is very smooth at this point. Cherries and brick dust on the palate, some earthy, tobacco notes as well. Very nice Old World Chateauneuf, showing good purity and some complexities of age. In a very good place now, with room for further development.
2001 Les Cailloux (Lucien et Andr Brunel) Chteauneuf-du-Pape
A very good showing, in its prime, with a relaxed structure and a mouthful of dark fruit and spice cake. At the point in its life when its texture is fuzzy and relaxed, like a worn blanket, and the palate is still alive with flavor and character. I don't buy Les Cailloux any more, and I find the ones that I've cellared to be highly, highly variable, but every so often I pull out one that shines, and this was one. Drink now.
2000 Domaine du Pga Chteauneuf-du-Pape Cuve Rserve
Nice nose here, with dried spices and some animal fur, more earthy and spicy than fruity aromas. The palate is smooth and cohesive, showing darker blackberry fruit and dried cherries, surrounded by complexities of animal fur, soy, chestnut and a bit of leather. Really good focus, the wine is still precise after ten years. This is a rather clean showing, not showing much barnyard or brett (which dominated a magnum of the '98 Pegau I opened for a birthday dinner in 12/07), the animal fur a reminder that this is rugged, old school CdP and not spoofed. The appeal here is the silky smooth mouthfeel, the tannins smoothed out and the structure lessening its grip and allowing the complexities of the palate to shine nicely. Definitely no longer a young CdP, yet neither is this mature or advanced. It's at a very nice point in its evolution, with plenty of upside.
2000 Cuve du Vatican Chteauneuf-du-Pape Rserve Sixtine
Small dark berries on the palate, hint of caramel, dark profile, the sweet barrique notes are obvious. I probably would have found this to be too modern, if not spoofy, as a younger wine, but I've cellared this wine so that it might resolve and show well . . . and while the dark oak notes resolved only somewhat, it showed about as well as could be expected, as a softer, mellower version of a spoofed wine, but still rather sweet and not what I look for in Chateauneuf. It was well received, however; Dean, in fact, enjoyed most of the bottle, and that's because I chose to drink something else. Yes, it's an oaky, international style Chateauneuf, but time has mellowed it. Akin to an older Shiraz that has worn with some time, but it still is what it is.
2000 Domaine de la Charbonnire Chteauneuf-du-Pape Cuve Vieilles Vignes
In line with the last few times I opened this wine, which were over a year ago. This is showing more of the sweet side of Grenache, with figs and date fruit, and a structure that is giving out. Interestingly, the Perdrix is still showing nicely and at peak, whereas the VV from this vintage should not be held longer.
2006 Pierre Gaillard Cte-Rtie "Rose Pourpre"
If you can get past the sheen of coconut/suntan lotion sweet new oak, you will find an appealing palate of balanced fruit, nicely ripe, silky structure and good restraint on the palate, apart from the new oak. Right now, this tastes like it may be an oaky Syrah from Walla Walla. Give this one 5+ years in the back of the cellar for the oak to integrate, and my hope is that a very nice Cote Rotie will emerge. Zero degradation over three nights of being open, which bodes well for the future.
1999 Rene Rostaing Cte-Rtie La Landonne
The first thing I notice is the silky mouthfeel, then the great, vibrant acidity, then the cool blue fruits. Very classy. Increasingly reductive with air. The finish is particularly impressive, almost like pixie stix dust - dry, sweet granules of flavor. With time, the nose shows high notes of red fruit, Syrah rubber and perfume. The palate remains very well delineated, the fruit taking on more red fruit tones, although the palate loses some structure with time and turns a bit soft, but oh so pretty. Keeps its focus much better than the '99 Gallet on the table, which is much more tired. This shows more red fruit, more length, better high notes than the '99 Ogier on the table also. Much more regal, prettier, more lady like to the dark, brutish Ogier.
1999 Gallet Henri et Phillippe Cte-Rtie
The nose shows much more menthol than past bottles. Palate shows the expected blue fruit, some herbs, and is rather soft. Not that it's advanced or tertiary or especially complex, but it is more worn, less energetic and softer. With air time, the nose is much lessened in impact, showing overt herbal notes but less menthol. Palate shows dark fruits, more resolved, older, gentler Syrah. This bottle is in line with past tastings over the past few years, this is on its downward curve in terms of power.
1999 Michel & Stphane Ogier Cte-Rtie
Great nose, dark and herbal. The palate is more lively and darker than the '99 Rostaing La Landonne that preceded it. Silky mouthfeel. Cool Syrah blue/black fruit, but lacking in the high notes that I was expecting, especially at this age, showing more dark bass than high treble. With more time in the glass, Dave and Michel cite some green-ness on the palate, but I'm not sure about that. Still high acidity, dark and brooding palate, but definitely softer around the edges than past bottles, and at 11 years, no longer the stacked, tight wine it was in the past.
I'm nursing a glass on the second night, and no degradation, just blue fruit, violets, bacon and iron. It's much darker than, e.g., the red-fruited '99 Rostaing La Landonne. The acidity is still vibrant on this second night, the dark fruited palate is juicy and tart at the same time. Still plenty of acidic structure, while the tannins are softening. I'm not sure whether to drink this sooner or later. The acidic backbone is still very much alive, but the palate is definitely less intense and shows less tannic structure and less thrust than bottles in the past.
1998 Ferraton Pre & Fils Hermitage Les Miaux
Corked. But that level of corkiness that goes beyond annoying and is actually taunting, because all the beauty of this wine - - grilled meats and smokey dark fruit and a structure that is just starting to release and smooth out - - is right underneath the surface of TCA taint, that of course ruins it all.
But wait, there's more! Bonus New World Rhone tasting note included at no additional cost!
2001 Edmunds St. John Syrah Wylie-Fenaughty
In line with my previous tasting notes on this wine, this is continuing in its evolution and seems to have shed most of its tannin, resulting in a very smooth and silky mouthfeel, with little tannic structure remaining, although the acidity still imparts good lift. Palate shows smooth dark fruit, a very savory sweet liquorice element, smoked meats. The lack of tannin and the silky smooth mouthfeel really define this wine right now. I would say drink now to mid term.
Baking spices on the nose, suggesting some oak influence, but the palate is not overly oaky. Vibrant red fruits on the palate, cherry kirsch, spice box and lavender. Really nice palate, showing good complexities and lively red fruits. Ripe, but not at all raisiny. The tannins seem fuzzier than the last bottle some eight months ago, yet the tannins show rather dry on the finish. This is evolving nicely. UPDATE: this has now been open 24+ hours, and it shows no oxidation or degradation. It is, however, showing its oak on the palate, showing more of a darker fruited palate
2005 Domaine de Marcoux Chteauneuf-du-Pape
I opened this along with steaks prepared for my parents who visited. After they left, around midnight, the rest of the family asleep, I sat on the deck of my new house and watched the stars, especially bright Mars just beneath the Moon. It provided the perfect setting to contemplate this '05 Marcoux that had by then been open for some five hours and was singing.
Initially, a smooth and cohesive CdP, primary black raspberry fruit, but not showing much development or complexity. Five hours later, the detail had emerged. The nose developed nuances of firewood, light mesquite and garrigue. On the palate, it's like a bowl of macerated cherries, a touch of brown spice and cigar box. The finish is a touch dry, the tannins definitely still present, but very streamlined. The wine is delicious and has grown complex with air, but hasn't yet gotten to point of sweet fruit. Long finish showing spices. Liked this one a lot, way more than an '01 Marcoux CdP a few nights prior that was diffuse and sharp. This '05 still has the strength of youth, but with some secondary development. No degradation overnight, the wine shows good focus and balance and is very enjoyable. In a good place now, but with lots of upside for the future.
2001 Domaine de Marcoux Chteauneuf-du-Pape
Huge blackberry nose at first, bright and inviting, I was looking forward to drinking this. But then it takes a turn, the fruit losing its focus and showing more worn, then prune and raisin, with leather and spice on the palate. This should be in its prime, with a cohesive palate, but I would describe it as exactly the opposite: Diffuse. The tannins are smoothed, but there is no midpalate interest, no fruit sweetness, and little richness. The finish is rather sharp. Disappointing.
2004 Chteau de Saint-Cosme Gigondas
Very interesting wine, and the oak is more absorbed than as recently as ten months ago when the oak was way too overt. It's still a bit woody, but in a rustic, underbrush way, along with lots of dark plums, cherries and a really interesting apple skin quality. It's not as chocolate/mocha oaky as in the past. The tannin is softening, the acidity vibrant. It's a touch sharp on the finish. The wine can still be cellared and improve, given the last ten months of considerable improvement. Definitely dark and modern, with obvious polish and flash, the alcohol is high, but the "red" is showing more than the chocolate/oak/brown, and the fruit is vibrant and rich. Six years has been kind and has tamed this wine.
2004 Le Vieux Donjon Chteauneuf-du-Pape
Pleasing, elegant CdP, not a "tour de force" and without "gobs of fruit", which means that to my palate, this wine is just fine. The fruit is very clean, with cherry and a core of red raspberry, cocoa, and a bit of rusticity around the edges. Opens up by the second night, broadens horizontally on the palate as well as vertically with additional depth of fruit, garrigue, and the trademark Donjon attribute of melted black truffle, brown spice and animal fur. The tannin also comes out more on the second night, suggesting that any initial impression of weakness or lack of fortitude may be premature. Drink now with a decant or let it age for a few more years.
2004 Clos du Mont-Olivet Chteauneuf-du-Pape La Cuve du Papet
Opened this to contrast with the 2000 Cuvee Papet that I opened the prior night. The '00, soft and ready. This '04, still young and firm. The '00, more resolved plummy fruit, broad and expansive on the palate, soft around the edges, with resolved tannins. This '04, more primary, direct and linear, as opposed to broad. This '04 shows younger, more taut purple fruit, tannins still grippy. Drink the '00 now, age this '04 longer.
2000 Clos du Mont-Olivet Chteauneuf-du-Pape La Cuve du Papet
This is ready. Mouthfeel is resolved and smooth, the fruit nicely developed and integrated with secondaries, garrigue, hint of tomato, the palate more pink/lavender/garrigue than primary reds or blacks; tannin very soft. Drink now.
1998 Clos du Mont-Olivet Chteauneuf-du-Pape La Cuve du Papet
Began with surprising notes of red currant and pomegranate and then that mealy, fetid meat taste of TCA. Every single bottle from this batch has been corked or otherwise off.
2001 Domaine de la Vieille Julienne Chteauneuf-du-Pape
A curious wine. On the first night, I was ready to write this wine off, as it was rather dull, advanced, and showed little richness. Then I noticed my friend Peter's positive note and thought I should give this wine another chance. On the second night (after transfer to a .375 and overnight in the fridge), the wine is more expressive. It's more autumnal, with potpourri on the nose and resolved cherry and wood spice notes on the palate, the finish showing more underlying fruit than the first night, and yet still there is a dryness on the sides of the tongue alongside fruit richness which has finally emerged. So, I'm not sure what to think. Will additional time in the cellar make this a better, richer, more complex or more interesting wine, or will the dryness become more pronounced? My bet is that the wine is drying out and that at close to ten years old, this wine is as good as it will it ever be. While the tannin is smoothed out, the acidity is still notable, so there may be enough structure to carry it further, although I'm not confident that it will become much better.
2001 Domaine Charvin Chteauneuf-du-Pape
Solid. Kirsch liqueur and pure red fruit palate. The tannins are silky smooth but still show a bit of firmness, suggesting a bit more cellaring needed. The fruit seems to have come right up to the line but never crosses over-ripe. Remarkable balance. I was surprised how young this wine showed this time. Hold. Pulled this for our first weekend in our new house.
2001 Chteau du Mourre du Tendre Chteauneuf-du-Pape Cuve Tradition
Further ahead in its evolution than my last bottle in August 2009 at Tribeca Grill, the tannin is very smooth at this point. Cherries and brick dust on the palate, some earthy, tobacco notes as well. Very nice Old World Chateauneuf, showing good purity and some complexities of age. In a very good place now, with room for further development.
2001 Les Cailloux (Lucien et Andr Brunel) Chteauneuf-du-Pape
A very good showing, in its prime, with a relaxed structure and a mouthful of dark fruit and spice cake. At the point in its life when its texture is fuzzy and relaxed, like a worn blanket, and the palate is still alive with flavor and character. I don't buy Les Cailloux any more, and I find the ones that I've cellared to be highly, highly variable, but every so often I pull out one that shines, and this was one. Drink now.
2000 Domaine du Pga Chteauneuf-du-Pape Cuve Rserve
Nice nose here, with dried spices and some animal fur, more earthy and spicy than fruity aromas. The palate is smooth and cohesive, showing darker blackberry fruit and dried cherries, surrounded by complexities of animal fur, soy, chestnut and a bit of leather. Really good focus, the wine is still precise after ten years. This is a rather clean showing, not showing much barnyard or brett (which dominated a magnum of the '98 Pegau I opened for a birthday dinner in 12/07), the animal fur a reminder that this is rugged, old school CdP and not spoofed. The appeal here is the silky smooth mouthfeel, the tannins smoothed out and the structure lessening its grip and allowing the complexities of the palate to shine nicely. Definitely no longer a young CdP, yet neither is this mature or advanced. It's at a very nice point in its evolution, with plenty of upside.
2000 Cuve du Vatican Chteauneuf-du-Pape Rserve Sixtine
Small dark berries on the palate, hint of caramel, dark profile, the sweet barrique notes are obvious. I probably would have found this to be too modern, if not spoofy, as a younger wine, but I've cellared this wine so that it might resolve and show well . . . and while the dark oak notes resolved only somewhat, it showed about as well as could be expected, as a softer, mellower version of a spoofed wine, but still rather sweet and not what I look for in Chateauneuf. It was well received, however; Dean, in fact, enjoyed most of the bottle, and that's because I chose to drink something else. Yes, it's an oaky, international style Chateauneuf, but time has mellowed it. Akin to an older Shiraz that has worn with some time, but it still is what it is.
2000 Domaine de la Charbonnire Chteauneuf-du-Pape Cuve Vieilles Vignes
In line with the last few times I opened this wine, which were over a year ago. This is showing more of the sweet side of Grenache, with figs and date fruit, and a structure that is giving out. Interestingly, the Perdrix is still showing nicely and at peak, whereas the VV from this vintage should not be held longer.
2006 Pierre Gaillard Cte-Rtie "Rose Pourpre"
If you can get past the sheen of coconut/suntan lotion sweet new oak, you will find an appealing palate of balanced fruit, nicely ripe, silky structure and good restraint on the palate, apart from the new oak. Right now, this tastes like it may be an oaky Syrah from Walla Walla. Give this one 5+ years in the back of the cellar for the oak to integrate, and my hope is that a very nice Cote Rotie will emerge. Zero degradation over three nights of being open, which bodes well for the future.
1999 Rene Rostaing Cte-Rtie La Landonne
The first thing I notice is the silky mouthfeel, then the great, vibrant acidity, then the cool blue fruits. Very classy. Increasingly reductive with air. The finish is particularly impressive, almost like pixie stix dust - dry, sweet granules of flavor. With time, the nose shows high notes of red fruit, Syrah rubber and perfume. The palate remains very well delineated, the fruit taking on more red fruit tones, although the palate loses some structure with time and turns a bit soft, but oh so pretty. Keeps its focus much better than the '99 Gallet on the table, which is much more tired. This shows more red fruit, more length, better high notes than the '99 Ogier on the table also. Much more regal, prettier, more lady like to the dark, brutish Ogier.
1999 Gallet Henri et Phillippe Cte-Rtie
The nose shows much more menthol than past bottles. Palate shows the expected blue fruit, some herbs, and is rather soft. Not that it's advanced or tertiary or especially complex, but it is more worn, less energetic and softer. With air time, the nose is much lessened in impact, showing overt herbal notes but less menthol. Palate shows dark fruits, more resolved, older, gentler Syrah. This bottle is in line with past tastings over the past few years, this is on its downward curve in terms of power.
1999 Michel & Stphane Ogier Cte-Rtie
Great nose, dark and herbal. The palate is more lively and darker than the '99 Rostaing La Landonne that preceded it. Silky mouthfeel. Cool Syrah blue/black fruit, but lacking in the high notes that I was expecting, especially at this age, showing more dark bass than high treble. With more time in the glass, Dave and Michel cite some green-ness on the palate, but I'm not sure about that. Still high acidity, dark and brooding palate, but definitely softer around the edges than past bottles, and at 11 years, no longer the stacked, tight wine it was in the past.
I'm nursing a glass on the second night, and no degradation, just blue fruit, violets, bacon and iron. It's much darker than, e.g., the red-fruited '99 Rostaing La Landonne. The acidity is still vibrant on this second night, the dark fruited palate is juicy and tart at the same time. Still plenty of acidic structure, while the tannins are softening. I'm not sure whether to drink this sooner or later. The acidic backbone is still very much alive, but the palate is definitely less intense and shows less tannic structure and less thrust than bottles in the past.
1998 Ferraton Pre & Fils Hermitage Les Miaux
Corked. But that level of corkiness that goes beyond annoying and is actually taunting, because all the beauty of this wine - - grilled meats and smokey dark fruit and a structure that is just starting to release and smooth out - - is right underneath the surface of TCA taint, that of course ruins it all.
But wait, there's more! Bonus New World Rhone tasting note included at no additional cost!
2001 Edmunds St. John Syrah Wylie-Fenaughty
In line with my previous tasting notes on this wine, this is continuing in its evolution and seems to have shed most of its tannin, resulting in a very smooth and silky mouthfeel, with little tannic structure remaining, although the acidity still imparts good lift. Palate shows smooth dark fruit, a very savory sweet liquorice element, smoked meats. The lack of tannin and the silky smooth mouthfeel really define this wine right now. I would say drink now to mid term.
