Edit: the vintage on the Bonneau was off by a decade. Oops.
Bonneau 1988 Chteauneuf-du-Pape Rserve des Clestins (Rhne) Like drowning in a zero-gravity sea of satin, this wine seduces and entices but never grounds itself, preferring to float and writhe. Theres hickory, fermented roots, a bit of that 70s-style coconut tanning oil mixed with a supermodels extremely sexy perspiration (visualize it, dont analyze it), and a lot of soft, incredibly delicious fruit from the reddish-pink realm. And theres tannin in the graphitic style, like that of a top Bordeaux in the early days of its maturity, that rumbles along the palate, resetting and refreshing, before another sleepy-time wave of silk. The caveat, perhaps, is that its perhaps all a bit easy; the appeal of the wine is purely reactive and animalistic, without much of an intellectual component. Still, what a beautiful winestill years from full maturity, but absolutely compelling now. (10/08)
COS 2005 Nuro di Lupo Nero dAvola (Sicily) Smells like Sicily. Not the dirty part, but the rich, everything-grows-wild-everywhere countryside, with a deep foundation and a swaggering black minerality layered with berries, leaves, and more rich soil. Beautiful. (9/08)
Forsoni Sanguineto I e II 2004 Rosso di Montepulciano (Tuscany) This is such a beautiful wine, and has almost single-handedly restored my confidence in the category. Spicy strawberry and black cherry fruit with double-helixed structure and a very, very light bite of chewy skin tannin, this is a wine that loves nothing more than to dine. Dont disappoint it. (10/08)
Hillau Domaine Etxegaraya 2002 Irouleguy (Southwest France) Dying, thanks to a synthetic cork. I wish Id thought to open this sooner. I wont make that mistake with the other three bottles. *grumble* (9/08)
Coudert Clos de la Roilette 2005 Fleurie (Beaujolais) Told to bring pinot noir for a salmon dinner, I switch to this when the preparation is announced as involving green beans and tomatoes. And it works beautifully, with the food bringing out more acidity than Ive previously noticed in this wine, yet leaving the irresistible small red berries intact. And then, in the absence of the food, theres the long, lingering finish of surprising delicacy yet firm insistence. I have no idea what to make of this wine, other than Im glad I have a lot of it. (10/08)
Laboucari Domaine de Fontsainte 2005 Corbires (Languedoc) Incredibly appealing. Many Corbires are not, having this or that flaw, or a general indifference as their primary characteristic. This one is immediately drinkable, with a fine acidity enveloping tart red berries, gravelly soil with dry, arid aspects, and a cooling, brittle structure. It will probably age for a bit, but why wait? (10/08)
St. Michael-Eppan 2004 Pinot Nero Riserva (Alto Adige) Mushrooms growing alongside the barnthe animalistic side of this wine is very much on the edge of acceptability, and the averse should take notewith a dark, post-coital midnight sweat over blackened berries. Theres plenty of lightening structure, but the wine is a blackheart, and wont yield anything refreshing. Still, given the right food, this could be just the thing. I dont think age will help, as I think the flaws will grow more pronounced. (10/08)
Boutin Chteau La Roque 2004 Pic Saint Loup Cupa Numismae (Languedoc) A furrowed brow of a wine, meaty and muscular, with some smarts and a careful attention to reserve. Well-structured and full of promise. Drinking now requires charcoal-transformed flesh. The finish could be a bit longer, though, so monitor its progress with some care. (10/08)
Do Sul Cabriz 20005 Do (Portugal) Dark, wild-berry fruit. Tar. Charred espresso. And a massively hollow palate. With more form and midsection, this would have been a nice $10 quaffer. As it is, its avoidable. (10/08)
Bonneau 1988 Chteauneuf-du-Pape Rserve des Clestins (Rhne) Like drowning in a zero-gravity sea of satin, this wine seduces and entices but never grounds itself, preferring to float and writhe. Theres hickory, fermented roots, a bit of that 70s-style coconut tanning oil mixed with a supermodels extremely sexy perspiration (visualize it, dont analyze it), and a lot of soft, incredibly delicious fruit from the reddish-pink realm. And theres tannin in the graphitic style, like that of a top Bordeaux in the early days of its maturity, that rumbles along the palate, resetting and refreshing, before another sleepy-time wave of silk. The caveat, perhaps, is that its perhaps all a bit easy; the appeal of the wine is purely reactive and animalistic, without much of an intellectual component. Still, what a beautiful winestill years from full maturity, but absolutely compelling now. (10/08)
COS 2005 Nuro di Lupo Nero dAvola (Sicily) Smells like Sicily. Not the dirty part, but the rich, everything-grows-wild-everywhere countryside, with a deep foundation and a swaggering black minerality layered with berries, leaves, and more rich soil. Beautiful. (9/08)
Forsoni Sanguineto I e II 2004 Rosso di Montepulciano (Tuscany) This is such a beautiful wine, and has almost single-handedly restored my confidence in the category. Spicy strawberry and black cherry fruit with double-helixed structure and a very, very light bite of chewy skin tannin, this is a wine that loves nothing more than to dine. Dont disappoint it. (10/08)
Hillau Domaine Etxegaraya 2002 Irouleguy (Southwest France) Dying, thanks to a synthetic cork. I wish Id thought to open this sooner. I wont make that mistake with the other three bottles. *grumble* (9/08)
Coudert Clos de la Roilette 2005 Fleurie (Beaujolais) Told to bring pinot noir for a salmon dinner, I switch to this when the preparation is announced as involving green beans and tomatoes. And it works beautifully, with the food bringing out more acidity than Ive previously noticed in this wine, yet leaving the irresistible small red berries intact. And then, in the absence of the food, theres the long, lingering finish of surprising delicacy yet firm insistence. I have no idea what to make of this wine, other than Im glad I have a lot of it. (10/08)
Laboucari Domaine de Fontsainte 2005 Corbires (Languedoc) Incredibly appealing. Many Corbires are not, having this or that flaw, or a general indifference as their primary characteristic. This one is immediately drinkable, with a fine acidity enveloping tart red berries, gravelly soil with dry, arid aspects, and a cooling, brittle structure. It will probably age for a bit, but why wait? (10/08)
St. Michael-Eppan 2004 Pinot Nero Riserva (Alto Adige) Mushrooms growing alongside the barnthe animalistic side of this wine is very much on the edge of acceptability, and the averse should take notewith a dark, post-coital midnight sweat over blackened berries. Theres plenty of lightening structure, but the wine is a blackheart, and wont yield anything refreshing. Still, given the right food, this could be just the thing. I dont think age will help, as I think the flaws will grow more pronounced. (10/08)
Boutin Chteau La Roque 2004 Pic Saint Loup Cupa Numismae (Languedoc) A furrowed brow of a wine, meaty and muscular, with some smarts and a careful attention to reserve. Well-structured and full of promise. Drinking now requires charcoal-transformed flesh. The finish could be a bit longer, though, so monitor its progress with some care. (10/08)
Do Sul Cabriz 20005 Do (Portugal) Dark, wild-berry fruit. Tar. Charred espresso. And a massively hollow palate. With more form and midsection, this would have been a nice $10 quaffer. As it is, its avoidable. (10/08)
