CWD: 2001 Domaine Leccia Petra Bianca Patrimonio Rouge

Eden Mylunsch

Eden Mylunsch
Upon opening, the immediate impression is one of meat. Dead meat, the sort of thing even Andrew Zimmern wouldn't be so keen on putting in his mouth if a camera weren't trained on him. It's spewing a touch of brett too, but enough to convince me to carrion with the glass.

After a bit of air it's obvious that the wine's not dead, but it's not as I recall it tasting on release. Back then it was juicy and full of acidity, leaning toward the "good" Chianti side of Sangiovese-as-seen-through-the-eyes-of Nieluccio. Now it's broad and kind of flabby, a former WWF star who's now so far out of shape it can't even find work as a manager. With a little air its fruit is taking shape, but said fruit is in the blueberry/boysenberry hemisphere of the flavor wheel spectrum and aromatically it leans toward the overripe, raisiny side of things. Not unpleasant but not pleasing either. Having it with some pasta tonight, so perhaps the tryptophan in the leftover turkey in the pasta sauce will knock me out before I'm compelled to open something that might offer more inspiration.

I've always thought of Patrimonio Rouge as a Neo-luccio or maybe the Ur-luccio. I can see the family resemblance to Sangiovese, but at this stage of its development it's not paying obeisance to Tuscany as much as it's sending a shout-out to its cuzz in the Sierra Foothills. But it's fucking French, so maybe this discombobulation from the homeland creates more confusion than one might expect. Perhaps the key to enjoying Corsican wines is just to drink them young without any concern about the wine evolving? I like the whites with some age on them, but I'm a sucker for Vermentino of a certain age anyway (and from almost anyplace) and the Corsicans do this well.

with the pasta the wine is okay, but still doesn't exactly rise to the occasion. It's better with the chunks of dark meat than with the white meat, but wtf, with the pasta sauce I bought at Big Lots!, how can you really tell? All in all, the wine isn't exactly a travesty of vinous yearning but I'm not all that enamored of it. I should have drunk it in the full bloom of its youth, while it still had "potential". Kinda like dating cheerleaders in high school; some went on to Stanford and became someone important and others are nowadays holding court at the local mobile home park. You can't be sure how things are going to turn out, so it's good to enjoy things when they're enjoyable and not defer the pleasure in the hope that they'll turn out to be monumental.

-Eden (Able was I ere I saw Elba)

t's similar to datin
 
I tried a few bottles of the 2007 version last summer, and I could see why you would want to age them at least a bit. It's a pretty stern wine.
 
One almost never hears about Leccia with any age on it, for good or ill.
A reminder that my notes from my month in Paris are grossly overdue, especially since they're about to be followed by two months in Paris.
 
Back
Top