CWD: 2008 Ocone Coda di Volpe

L

lars makie

lars makie
Before today, I had no idea this producer existed. Until about three weeks ago, I hadn't heard of the grape (or at least kept the info lodged in my brain). Funny how that works. From what I've learned this evening about the producer, they work organically (if not bio-dynamically) outside of Napoli farming Aglianico, Greco, Fallanghina and Coda di Volpe. The sign at the store I bought this at as well as the back label of the wine state that they don't add any sulfur to the bottling. I was surprised to read this and am even more surprised after tasting, seems quite stable and bacteria-free. Anybody know if this is indeed the case?

Anyway, the wine is quite nice. Clear, light/pale yellow; you'd think it wouldn't be as full in the mouth just by looking at it. The nose is full of orange and lemon as well as apricots (plus pits) and almonds. Very similar to a lighter Coenobium. With some time I'm also getting a touch of mint (was Ales Kristancic here). The mouth is quite full; but quite bright and lively. Just a hint of waxiness. Finish is a bit clipped, but whatevs.

I know that LDM is bringing in a skin-contact Coda di Volpe, the "Sophia" from Giardino and I really want to try it (Lyle's video on it is what brought the grape to my attention; thanks Lyle). I was hoping that Kevin McKenna was going to bring one with him for his recent visit to Chicago, but wasn't meant to be (did get him to open an Aglianico from Giardino though; quite nice). It seems a great grape to make an orange wine from.
Coda di Volpe: the 'it' grape for 2011!
 
Ocone is decent stuff. I used to pour the Falanghina at one point, and also the basic Aglianico for awhile. A good producer to get a textbook feel of the Campania natives from. And good value. Although I would note a fairly high degree of cork taint, fairly short cork length, and some problems with getting the corks out of the Falanghina bottles two vintages back.

For me, Giardino is really special for the Coda di Volpe Rosa, which, let's be honest, you don't see too many other people turning out.

I think my favorite Coda di Volpe is bottled with a touch of Falanghina, by Villa Dora. But my mind is subject to change on the subject.

From this distance, and not really knowing right now if I am spewing BS or not, I think Coda di Volpe either is planted in volcanic soil and amazing for it, or nothing.
 
originally posted by Levi Dalton:
Ocone is decent stuff. A good producer to get a textbook feel of the Campania natives from. And good value.
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Yeah, that's really all I was hoping for: a straightforward representation of the grape as it is; unblended with anything else. Add none-too-expensive to equation and I'm fairly happy. Now, I will be on the lookout for the Villa Dora and the Giardino (both the rosa and "Sophia").

From this distance, and not really knowing right now if I am spewing BS or not, I think Coda di Volpe either is planted in volcanic soil and amazing for it, or nothing.
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This would explain why you're meh on the Ocone. If I remember right they grow their's primarily on clay.
 
The odd thing about Ocone, at least when I tasted with them 18 months ago, was that their white wines were all put through ML. This makes them extremely unusual when compared with other similar wines, or most Italian whites, for that matter.

I think I agree about Coda di Volpe and soil, my Fiano and Greco producer makes a pretty good CdV but not a patch on the Villa Dora 'Vulcano.' (Which I import for this coast, to be clear.)
 
I'll keep my eyes open for the Ocone, thanks for the notes, Lars. Giardino's wines in general I think are worth investigating, and very reasonably priced...cool to hear about the rosa, Levi.
 
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