Ata Rangi 2001 Syrah (Martinborough) Aging faster than the pinot noir from the same house and year, which is probably a combination of site and vine, but could also just mean that more stake is placed on the success of the pinot. A well-read and somewhat intellectual wine with bushy eyebrows, seated in a well-worn leather chair in the corner of a dark, smoky drawing room, dusty tomes and old pipes strewn about the surrounding tables. I dont know if Id call it fully mature, yet, but it has probably learned all it is going to from its maturation, and the future might hold more unpredictability. This is the best aged New Zealand syrah Ive had, but since that personal category is largely unpopulated theres not much to that qualification. Perhaps more important: it was worth aging. (10/10)
Rippon 2001 Pinot Noir (Central Otago) Still fruity (figs, mostly, which is an interesting place for a pinot noir to go), though theres some concentrated plum hanging about as well. Tastes warm in the way New World versions of this grape often do, and about as mature as I think one would want it; tannins have fully softened but acids are not yet exposed. The finish, which hints at licorice but never quite gets there, is surprisingly long. This was a wine I underestimated when I tasted it at release, thinking it more simple-minded than it turned out to be. (9/10)
Olssens 2002 Pinot Noir Slapjack Creek (Central Otago) 14%, and showing every bit of that plus some more as a bonus. Unquestionably on the downslope, and though its not too far along it in terms of fruit development (theres the usual leathering of the berries, plus some tarry hints of autumn), a rapid separation from the alcoholic power inside the wine has rendered it more than a little Scotch-y. This was never a great wine, but it was certainly more appealing at release. Drink up. (7/10)
Fromm La Strada 2001 Pinot Noir Clayvin (Marlborough) As mature as one would want it, I think. The berries, strong and lavishly-structured, have not fully developed into something more autumnal, but those equinoxal notes are present, the tannin is still a throb but no longer deadening, and there are baked and sunset aspects to both aroma and finish. This turned out not to be the ager I might have predicted (though this bottle is from a recent store closeout, and thus of doubtful provenance), but has turned out to reward what aging it has accomplished. (8/10)
Fromm La Strada 2001 Pinot Noir Clayvin (Marlborough) Almost exactly like the previous bottle, except with more fruit-to-underbrush development, and a more appealing texture. (8/10)
Donaldson Family Main Divide 2005 Riesling (South Island) Citrus leaf, lemongrass, good acidity and just enough sweetness for balance. Simple, sunny. (7/10)
Donaldson Family Main Divide 2005 Riesling (South Island) Ripe green apple, hints of grapefruit, Asian aromaticsbut really, all more simple than that. And good. Tasty. Fun. (7/10)
Rippon 2001 Pinot Noir (Central Otago) Still fruity (figs, mostly, which is an interesting place for a pinot noir to go), though theres some concentrated plum hanging about as well. Tastes warm in the way New World versions of this grape often do, and about as mature as I think one would want it; tannins have fully softened but acids are not yet exposed. The finish, which hints at licorice but never quite gets there, is surprisingly long. This was a wine I underestimated when I tasted it at release, thinking it more simple-minded than it turned out to be. (9/10)
Olssens 2002 Pinot Noir Slapjack Creek (Central Otago) 14%, and showing every bit of that plus some more as a bonus. Unquestionably on the downslope, and though its not too far along it in terms of fruit development (theres the usual leathering of the berries, plus some tarry hints of autumn), a rapid separation from the alcoholic power inside the wine has rendered it more than a little Scotch-y. This was never a great wine, but it was certainly more appealing at release. Drink up. (7/10)
Fromm La Strada 2001 Pinot Noir Clayvin (Marlborough) As mature as one would want it, I think. The berries, strong and lavishly-structured, have not fully developed into something more autumnal, but those equinoxal notes are present, the tannin is still a throb but no longer deadening, and there are baked and sunset aspects to both aroma and finish. This turned out not to be the ager I might have predicted (though this bottle is from a recent store closeout, and thus of doubtful provenance), but has turned out to reward what aging it has accomplished. (8/10)
Fromm La Strada 2001 Pinot Noir Clayvin (Marlborough) Almost exactly like the previous bottle, except with more fruit-to-underbrush development, and a more appealing texture. (8/10)
Donaldson Family Main Divide 2005 Riesling (South Island) Citrus leaf, lemongrass, good acidity and just enough sweetness for balance. Simple, sunny. (7/10)
Donaldson Family Main Divide 2005 Riesling (South Island) Ripe green apple, hints of grapefruit, Asian aromaticsbut really, all more simple than that. And good. Tasty. Fun. (7/10)