Thirstbarvin

M

Mathew Mauricio

Mathew Mauricio
I'm not associated with this new wine bar in Crown Heights, Brooklyn, which is why I'm comfortable plugging it. There was a soft opening last week, but tonight marked my first visit, and I have to say how happy I am that a wine bar of this caliber has opened up right around the corner from my apartment. The food is totally solid, with a menu that will change every week. (I generally eat vegetarian, so a lot of the menu offerings fall outside of my interest, but the braised leeks served in a delicate mustard vinaigrette made the night for me.) The wine menu is small (at least for now) but very carefully selected. Though Kermit Lynch/Beaujolais-heavy, it also features highlights from the usual suspects of natural wine importers--this go-around included Venier's white Cheverny from Savio, and the Brun Cremant de Bourgogne from Dressner.

We ordered a bottle of the Foillard Cote du Py 2009 to share, and though I would have liked to give it more time in the decanter, we couldn't help but gulp it down quickly. So juicy and fresh, with a brambly black strawberry thing going on. Totally drinkable, yet totally ageable.

I want this place to succeed, but it's in a part of Brooklyn that's fairly isolated. If it is to be a success it will require a loyal following. I'm prepared to be a regular. Will you join me?
 
Agreed, I went there on Saturday around 6:00pm. Really nice place. I live in the area and shop at the proprietor's store in Fort Greene frequently. Want to meet at the bar some time soon?
 
Matt and I checked out Thirstbarvin last night - great time. I started with a glass of 2009 Christian Venier Cheverny Le Clos des Carteries, apparently a blend of Sauvignon and Chardonnay, and it was rather floral and full-bodied - not the best aperitif, though it melded well with gougres. I ordered the outrageously delicious pork loin braised in milk, and at the house's suggestion I paired it with the 2008 Poderi Sanguineto Rosso di Montepulciano - an excellent match. The "chocolate oblivion" dessert, a black-hole singularity of a flourless chocolate cake with grey salt sprinkled on top, achieved its objective with ruthless efficiency.

Matt had a glass or two of what I believe was the Terres Dores Crmant de Bourgogne Charme, which I tasted: super fresh and yeasty with great precision, really nice from what I could tell.

I also brought the last of a bottle of 2000 Guy Bernard Cte-Rotie that I had opened earlier in the day to share with the staff. It is really in a good place. Drink and hold.

Thirstbar is really trying hard to be great, but as Matt said before, it's on the far edge of Crown Heights where their neighbors are largely scrap yards and auto shops. The prices are very reasonable, with most bottles priced at just below twice retail. The food is really terrific; they have Ginevra Iverson, formerly of Prune in Manhattan, as consulting chef. Check it out and spread the word.
 
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