Christian Miller (CMM)
Christian Miller
Crozes-Hermitage la Matiniere 2007, Ferraton - gamey raw young Syrah aroma with green peppercorn, a bit of truffle; medium body, ok acid, slightly green boiled young dark berry fruit with a distinct salumi tone, perhaps mercaptans although a charming version if so; medium long, moderate but dry tannins. Rather lean, quite Northern Rhoney. ***(*?)
Syrah Monterey Arroyo Secco 2007, Ventana - nice deep purple; fine pure Syrah nose with young grapy-blackberry fruit and a distinct green peppercorn note; medium body, some density, pure Syrah fruit with cool peppery character, nice balancing acidity and tannins, medium length with hint of bitterness. Not complex but good balanced cool climate Syrah. Develops a nice savory tone with 2 days air. ***(*?)
Syrah Cotes-du-Rhone 2009, St. Cosme - dark purply color; moderate aroma of ripe young plum-blackberry fruit with suggestions of tarragon or anise; medium body, lively acid, plump ripe Rhoney fruit, moderate but dry tannins, with an earthy-clay tone on the finish. Very much a southern Rhone wine, despite being 100% Syrah. ***
A nice showing for the modestly price ($14?) Ventana, not at all the odd man out in this trio.
Cidre Pays d'Auge NV, Domaine du Manoir de Montreuil (Michel Giard) - aggressive if fairly fine mousse, forced the cork out as soon as the basket was off, holds a head briefly; nice yeasty appley aroma; medium body, still fruity, demi-sec style, finishes with barely bitter apple skin flavor. The right stuff, tasty with quinoa and sweet potato "risotto", pork loin rolled in szechuan pepper and cardamom, sauteed apples. ***+
Oregon Apple "Eaux de Vie" aged in oak NV, Clearwater Creek - pale gold color; pure appley fruit and alcohol with mild woody tone in nose; lively appley fruit with a touch of butterscotch, punctuated with alcoholic heat that builds in finish. Despite 8 years in Limousin oak, this is fairly raw stuff, although pure and focused. ***
Dungeness Crab season out here...that means Riesling.
Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese 2005, JJ Prum - just emerging from its shell, a touch of SO2, but mostly vibrant minerally fresh Mosellish Riesling, long and (for an Auslese) quite lean and lively. ****
Riesling Bernkasteler Lay Auslese 2003, Dr. Thanisch - brassy-gold; moderate nose with ripe apricotty-honeyed fruit; medium body, plump with low acid, simple but tasty sweet apricotty Riesling fruit with a touch of jasmine; medium length. All the issues of 2003 are plain to see, but this was a jolly quaff with wokked crab with ginger & spring Onion. ***/****
Syrah Monterey Arroyo Secco 2007, Ventana - nice deep purple; fine pure Syrah nose with young grapy-blackberry fruit and a distinct green peppercorn note; medium body, some density, pure Syrah fruit with cool peppery character, nice balancing acidity and tannins, medium length with hint of bitterness. Not complex but good balanced cool climate Syrah. Develops a nice savory tone with 2 days air. ***(*?)
Syrah Cotes-du-Rhone 2009, St. Cosme - dark purply color; moderate aroma of ripe young plum-blackberry fruit with suggestions of tarragon or anise; medium body, lively acid, plump ripe Rhoney fruit, moderate but dry tannins, with an earthy-clay tone on the finish. Very much a southern Rhone wine, despite being 100% Syrah. ***
A nice showing for the modestly price ($14?) Ventana, not at all the odd man out in this trio.
Cidre Pays d'Auge NV, Domaine du Manoir de Montreuil (Michel Giard) - aggressive if fairly fine mousse, forced the cork out as soon as the basket was off, holds a head briefly; nice yeasty appley aroma; medium body, still fruity, demi-sec style, finishes with barely bitter apple skin flavor. The right stuff, tasty with quinoa and sweet potato "risotto", pork loin rolled in szechuan pepper and cardamom, sauteed apples. ***+
Oregon Apple "Eaux de Vie" aged in oak NV, Clearwater Creek - pale gold color; pure appley fruit and alcohol with mild woody tone in nose; lively appley fruit with a touch of butterscotch, punctuated with alcoholic heat that builds in finish. Despite 8 years in Limousin oak, this is fairly raw stuff, although pure and focused. ***
Dungeness Crab season out here...that means Riesling.
Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese 2005, JJ Prum - just emerging from its shell, a touch of SO2, but mostly vibrant minerally fresh Mosellish Riesling, long and (for an Auslese) quite lean and lively. ****
Riesling Bernkasteler Lay Auslese 2003, Dr. Thanisch - brassy-gold; moderate nose with ripe apricotty-honeyed fruit; medium body, plump with low acid, simple but tasty sweet apricotty Riesling fruit with a touch of jasmine; medium length. All the issues of 2003 are plain to see, but this was a jolly quaff with wokked crab with ginger & spring Onion. ***/****