WTN: Old World

MarkS

Mark Svereika
Enjoying beautiful Indian Summer weather here in Central New York, with the sun bringing highlights to the autumn leaves falling down around me. Also drinking wines none of which disapoint, and how can one be unhappy?

Vieux Chateau Certan, Pomerol, 1986
This is drinking much better than a bottle opened circa 2002. What was reticent backwardness has blossomed into ancient bottle aromas of spices: clove, cardamom, cinnamon, and smoked paprika. Plums, hawthorn, and a nettle/sorrel component come out in the mouth. The muted aged flavors with the patina of bottle age make for a rewarding drink. 12.5% A-

Alain Michaud, Brouilly, 'Prestige de Vielles Vignes', 2005
With all the folks on this and other boards drinking up their stash of 2005 Beaujolais, thought I would start in as well. The color is still a youthful light purplish-tinted ruby. Sulfurous iodine and sea plums waft from the nose, with a plummy iodine and salty tang of oyster shell and glycerin on the finish. Good, but better the first day. 13% A-/B+

Prunnotto, Barolo, 'Bussia', 1990
Also showing better than a bottle tasted earlier, but I've never warmed up to Prunnotto's style, which to me tends toward the brawny, muscular style of Barolo treated with oak. There is fruit pit here (cherry & apricot), licorice root, and cherry prune juice and some stink on the finish, along with worn football. The tannins are still prominent. B+

Pepiere, Muscadet, 'Clos des Briords', 2004
The usual goodness: oyster shell, herbal aromatics (tarragon/rosemary). Exquisite, although I would love to see a lower alcohol level to see what would result. 12% Only surpassed by the 2002. A-

Lopez de Heredia, Vina Tondonia, Rioja - Reserva, 1996
Light transparent red. Coconut-lime and light cherry aromatics. Bright acidity, raspberry and cherry juice, this feels light and refreshing. 12.5% B+

Domaine de la Chanteleuserie, Bourgueil, 'cuvee Beauvais', 2005
Dark purplish red. Lots of stemmy red fruit here, with smoke, talc, and cooking chocolate along with leaf elements. Good now, but would like to retaste in 1-2 years when the stems recede. Better profile here than a 2004 Baudry 'Grezeaux' within the last month. Of course, ripe(r) years prejudice me. B+ Not bad for the price, either (aound 14-15$).
 
Ollivier doesn't chaptalize the Briords, but he is usually pretty happy to get 12% natural from his low-yielding old vines. And the 2004 is certainly surpassed by the supernal 1996 at the least, and there are advocates for the '97 and even the '05.
 
Joe -

I'm just wondering, but has anybody ever made a melon wine like a low-alcohol riesling from Germany? Suss-reserve is not legal there, but I'd be interested to taste a 8-9% Muscadet, either off-dry or slightly sweet. Might not be commercially viable, but if you can find 11% Beaujolais in the market, why not?
I love Muscadet, but sometimes find if it's not chilled enough, the etheralness of the wine sometimes shows a little heat, so that brings up my question.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
Ollivier doesn't chaptalize the Briords, but he is usually pretty happy to get 12% natural from his low-yielding old vines. And the 2004 is certainly surpassed by the supernal 1996 at the least, and there are advocates for the '97 and even the '05.

I'm with Joe. I have a weakness for both the '96, when I'm feeling in need of correction and discipline, and the '97, when I want to revel in the pleasures of the flesh.

Not that I'd kick the '02 out of bed for eating crackers, but I think for me the jury's still out on whether it'll hit those highs.
 
originally posted by MarkS:
Joe -

I'm just wondering, but has anybody ever made a melon wine like a low-alcohol riesling from Germany? Suss-reserve is not legal there, but I'd be interested to taste a 8-9% Muscadet, either off-dry or slightly sweet. Might not be commercially viable, but if you can find 11% Beaujolais in the market, why not?
I love Muscadet, but sometimes find if it's not chilled enough, the etheralness of the wine sometimes shows a little heat, so that brings up my question.
I've certainly never seen it. I guess the closest would be the one with a little hat, the name escapes me, that Jenny and Francois brought it. Of course, it refermented. I went to an in-store tasting where the pourer tried to pretend that fizz had been the intention (the thing was foamy, not prickly). So I suppose there's a lot of potential stylistic diversity. Can't say as I think Muscadet in its current form needs fixing for me.

If the Briords is too hot, you can usually drop half a degree or so by going to the regular Pepiere.
 
originally posted by MarkS:
Joe -

I'm just wondering, but has anybody ever made a melon wine like a low-alcohol riesling from Germany? Suss-reserve is not legal there, but I'd be interested to taste a 8-9% Muscadet, either off-dry or slightly sweet. Might not be commercially viable, but if you can find 11% Beaujolais in the market, why not?
I love Muscadet, but sometimes find if it's not chilled enough, the etheralness of the wine sometimes shows a little heat, so that brings up my question.

About a year ago I had dinner with Jo Landron (Louvetrie)... that very question came up in our discussion. Apparently Jo had tried this (leaving some residual sugar) a few years ago but was not pleased with the results. I wish I could say that we probed further, but if we did, I do not recall the details.

-Jim
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
I guess the closest would be the one with a little hat, the name escapes me, that Jenny and Francois brought it. Of course, it refermented. I went to an in-store tasting where the pourer tried to pretend that fizz had been the intention (the thing was foamy, not prickly). So I suppose there's a lot of potential stylistic diversity.

The wine in question is called Chapeau Melon. it is made by Senchalier (or something like that...) I believe that it is supposed to be sparkling, but have not had it for a while and do not know for sure.
 
originally posted by scottreiner:
The wine in question is called Chapeau Melon. it is made by Senchalier (or something like that...) I believe that it is supposed to be sparkling.

I am pretty sure that the Chapeau Melon from Marc Pesnot is not supposed to be sparkling.

I found a bit of ptillance in the 07 this summer, although none of the foam found in SFJoe's example.
 
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