TN: 2001 Brunello and other Tuscans

Asher

Asher Rubinstein
We had some people over and pulled some 2001 Brunello and other Tuscans from my cellar to have a look on their 10th birthday.

I opened a magnum of 2005 Domaine de la Pépière (Marc Ollivier) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Cuvée Eden, which showed very well. Soft and broad on the palate, with white fruit and floral notes, and less in the way of sea notes, very elegant. I've now had it open for some four nights, with no degradation and indeed, a gain in focus and clarity. Great stuff.

2001 Caprili Brunello - Good ruggedness, sweetness of fruit, blood orange. Performed at an impressive level, especially for the low comparative price. Rugged and Old World in style. There was some left over for the second night, and it showed no degradation; the tannins emerged more prominently, blood orange, leather, spices; good finish. Surprisingly good and vigorous.

2001 Camigliano Brunello - The crowd favorite, perhaps because of its soft, smooth, user-friendly palate; dark brown palate, chocolate notes; soft.

2001 Lisini - A wine I've followed for a few years now, culminating in a very impressive showing in April 2010 with structure and fortitude that were absent from this wine in the past but by then had emerged and accompanied the sweet fruit. Well, this weekend's bottle was not as impressive; not as much fortitude and strength as in that 2010 bottle. Somewhat raisin-y, although people liked it.

2001 L'Chiuse - When I decanted this bottle, I thought it was woody, both on the palate and in its wood tannin. With air, it opened up, but still showed wood and cedar spice. Not great. Bottle # 02800. Apart from a bottle I opened years ago, around 2007, no subsequent bottle has impressed me. That bottle was enjoyed outdoors on a summer night in the Santa Monica Mountains, so perhaps that setting created a one-off enjoyment factor for this wine that I've never experienced since.

2001 Altesino - Sharp, angular, not impressive. Even the bottle I brought to Momofuko in October 2010 for the fried chicken dinner and enjoyed out of thick tumbler glasses, spoofy as it was, was better than this showing.

2001 Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona "Pianrosso" - A favorite producer of mine (sue me), but not a good showing. Raisins and prunes. Some remained on the second night, and it was soft, unstructured, with murky brown sugar notes.

2001 Livio Sassettti "Pertimali" - Another of my favorite producers, and this was more like it. Lovely, strawberry fruit, soft tannin, good underlying richness and class. Nice.

2001 Montevertine - A crowd favorite. Lovely, smooth, rich fruit, very integrated oak, smooth tannins. At a good point in its evolution.

2001 Felsina "Rancia" Chianti Classico Riserva - Great. Much darker than the other wines. Vibrant, dark fruit, smooth tannins, spice. Fresh, floral nose. Tannins finer than the Fontalloro. Rich, long finish. Still has years.

2001 Felsina "Fontalloro" - This has done a good job absorbing its new oak. Dark cherries, polished palate (but not spoofy), spices on the long finish. One guest whose palate I respect called this very sweet. Long, rich finish showing tannin and juicy acidity. Still has years to go.

There was also a 1993 Chateau Pajzos Esszancia, brought by a very generous guest, which was pretty spectacular. Lots of flavor and fruit (yellow, orange and golden fruit, sugar, warm apricot nectar), but very light on its feet. The finish goes on and on.
 
Nice to hear about the Esszancia; I have a couple.
And as much as I dislike sweet wine, the only time I had this, it was captivating - maybe still.
Best, Jim
 
Also nice to hear about the Pertimali, thanks for the note, although bummer on the Pianrosso. I had a bottle of the 01 Pianrosso just a couple of weeks ago that was delightful, if sort of caught in the in between phase where it's lost some of the freshness of youth but hasn't truly developed so instead it was a very elegant, very middleweight, very drinkable wine but not quite the depth I was hoping. Seemingly in need of a few more years wait to my tastes.
 
I had a gorgeous bottle of '01 Pianrosso recently. It was striking enough to change my mind about Ciacci, at least in '01.
 
I've never experienced the awful-bottle phenomenon of the '01 Le Chiuse because I drank two or three bottles right away after buying and then sent the rest to storage, where they still sit. I have no idea what happened to it after about a year that resulted in so many grossed-out tasting notes. Maybe it had some spoilage bacteria that turned an appealing funk into something ugly. Maybe some folks just never found the funk appealing. I remember opening a '97 Le Chiuse just when those negative notes started showing up, and found in it pretty much the same qualities I loved about the '01.
 
I have a pretty strong hit-to-miss ratio, in the negative sense. With the prices charged for BdM, I wish the producers would put disclaimers on the bottles, along with 100% guaranteed return stickers.
 
Sticking to a small set of producers, I have a great fondness for Brunello. But I pretty much stick to Conti Costanti, Livio Sassetti, Ciacci Piccolomini, Uccelliera, Il Poggione. I'd buy Poggio di Sotto and Soldera if they were cheaper.

FWIW, I've had 01 Le Chiuse twice, both about 2-3 years ago, and found it undrinkable both times.
 
originally posted by Josh Beck:
Sticking to a small set of producers, I have a great fondness for Brunello. But I pretty much stick to Conti Costanti, Livio Sassetti, Ciacci Piccolomini, Uccelliera, Il Poggione. I'd buy Poggio di Sotto and Soldera if they were cheaper.

FWIW, I've had 01 Le Chiuse twice, both about 2-3 years ago, and found it undrinkable both times.

Same here, except I have never had a le chiuse.
 
Just to mention here, where the interested may see it:

2006, from my limited sample set, may well deserve the hype regarding the strength of the vintage for Brunello di Montalcino. I've had a few very convincing examples.
 
Thank you, Levi. I have faith in your perceptions.

There is so much bad "information" about brunello out there that I find it hard to know what's going on (and no one seems to do brunello tastings in stores anymore?). Consequently, I have not bought brunello in a long time now.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Thank you, Levi. I have faith in your perceptions.

There is so much bad "information" about brunello out there that I find it hard to know what's going on (and no one seems to do brunello tastings in stores anymore?). Consequently, I have not bought brunello in a long time now.

That would seem like a reasonable response to me. At the same time, Sangiovese, unmessed with, can be pretty great. It is unfortunate that it can be so difficult getting that to one's glass.
 
Geez, there's a ton of Brunello spam flying around right now. Pointed by Suckling.

Any un-messed with Sangiovese you're fond of, Levi, priced within reach of the working man?
 
Yes, thanks Levi. There is a ton of hype out there. Any e-mail that has Suckling in the subject line goes right to delete. Clearly, now that he is off on his own, he's trying to make an independent name for himself. Useless to me. Your impressions, however, are useful to me. Still, I'm sitting on many cases of Brunello in my cellar and there is quite a bit backed up in the retail pipeline. Vintages of the century come around every few years, so I see no compulsion to buy.
 
originally posted by Asher:
Yes, thanks Levi. There is a ton of hype out there. Any e-mail that has Suckling in the subject line goes right to delete. Clearly, now that he is off on his own, he's trying to make an independent name for himself. Useless to me. Your impressions, however, are useful to me. Still, I'm sitting on many cases of Brunello in my cellar and there is quite a bit backed up in the retail pipeline. Vintages of the century come around every few years, so I see no compulsion to buy.

I have yet to get any with Suckling in the subject line, but my message body filters have been updated with his name. Looking in the bitbucket, I do indeed find one '06 Brunello there, replete with 97 SuckPoints. Blueberries abound in the description. Be still my beating heart!

Mark Lipton
 
2001 Caprili Brunello - Good ruggedness, sweetness of fruit, blood orange. Performed at an impressive level, especially for the low comparative price. Rugged and Old World in style. There was some left over for the second night, and it showed no degradation; the tannins emerged more prominently, blood orange, leather, spices; good finish. Surprisingly good and vigorous.
the good performance of caprili shouldn't be that much of a surprise. it's a classic estate and a representative of south western brunello. as you say a traditional expression of brunello. soldera's vines are based mostly on cuttings from caprili.
another estate from that corner is fattoi. enjoyed the 97 and the 95 recently, which are drinking very well.
 
originally posted by Levi Dalton:
Just to mention here, where the interested may see it:

2006, from my limited sample set, may well deserve the hype regarding the strength of the vintage for Brunello di Montalcino. I've had a few very convincing examples.
the hype is only partially deserved imho. many point out the late harvest as a positive factor, but this was mainly a cause because of late burgeoning so there was no particularly long ripening phase. september was marked by two weeks of very hot winds from africa, which closed down many of the young vines and gave a pruney character to many wines. the acids however remained very high.
i have tasted few wines in the bottle but from what i saw in the vineyards and tasted from barrels the real successes may be limited to the higher levelled vineyards around sant'angelo in colle and to the cooler climates around montalcino as well as the north eastern part, while the major part around sant'angelo in colle and tavernelle rather suffered from the heat.

still, apart form bolgheri and some spots that got rain before harvest, the year 2006 in tuscany seems to be a vintage that shows is virtues by its age and not its youth. and therefore, the comparative advantage of this vintage is indeed in and around monalcino.
 
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