Another fine article by Asimov

Florida Jim

Florida Jim

Sweet and savory - not bad criteria for the tasting note set. And even if you disagree with his choices for each category, it gets you thinking in those terms.

Well written, I think, and appealing even to those who are not geeks.
Best, Jim
 
I see where he's going but I think "fruity vs. vinous" describes this particular dichotomy better than sweet vs. savory. The problem with "savory" is that it's ordinarily used to connote umami, but some of the flavors he mentions (like herbs and minerality) aren't umami tastes. What's important about most of the "savory" elements in the wine context is that they're transformative flavors (flavors developed by virtue of the grapes being made into something else) rather than flavors that directly channel the fruit. Hence, the key division seems to be fruit vs. vinosity.
 
I will hereby argue. I thought this one of Asimov's weakest articles. The reason is that while he presents sweet and savory as a new way of simply categorizing wine, every line of the story was driven by inappropriate evaluations. The tip-off was his argument that German Rieslings (not the trockens) were savory because they were high in acid and minerally or that Southern Rhone from ripe years (years he has already classified elsewhere as over-ripe) were sweet. Once the judgment is no longer merely about whether one experiences sweetness (and one does drinking German Rieslings)but about ripeness vs. minerality (there are numbers of reasons not to like 07 CdPs, but one of them isn't that any producers version will give a greater impression of sweetness in 07 than in say his 04 or 06--just ask Jay about the 06 Charvin), then the categories cease to be working well.

I think if he had say divided between fruit driven and earth or mineral driven, and if he had pointedly gotten rid of arguments against kinds of wines and kinds of vintages, so that you could have over-ripe fruit driven or earth driven, for instance, as to my taste you can in either case, he might have gotten farther.

As an aside, his generalizations on 09 CdRs based on the handful he can have tasted is absurd. If he doesn't like those, he will not likely like them in most other years, which is fine with me, but which is not a function of an outré vintage.
 
Jonathan and Keith,
Everyone is entitled to their opinion.
But do you really think he was talking to you? Either of you?

Pick nits and split hairs if you must, but for the "man/woman on the street" wine consumer, his choice of categories and his attempts to fit wines into them are easy reference points.
And easy is the gift he brings to the vast majority of his readers.
Best, Jim
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:
Jonathan and Keith,
Everyone is entitled to their opinion.
But do you really think he was talking to you? Either of you?

Pick nits and split hairs if you must, but for the "man/woman on the street" wine consumer, his choice of categories and his attempts to fit wines into them are easy reference points.
And easy is the gift he brings to the vast majority of his readers.
Best, Jim

Actually, I think he was talking to me, and to Keith and to you, albeit about categories that would help those who were less geeky. Every example he gave was meant to persuade the geeky that this was a good non-geeky set of categories. and I think the categories as he described them would precisely not help the non-geeky. How happy would you be if you had never tried say a Riesling spatslese and he recommended it to you because it was savory? For that matter, how much would you like the category savory to describe muscadet if you didn't know all the, really to my mind, bad thinking, but thinking that you weren't aware of that stood behind that odd descriptor.
 
I didn't read the whole article (yet) but I am willing to throw in my two cents anyway:

Sweet or Savory
Black or White
Right or Wrong

The closing examples of wines as either sweet or savory better described Asimov's taste in wines more than anything else. Muscadet as Savory? How does that work?
 
originally posted by Keith Levenberg:
The problem with "savory" is that it's ordinarily used to connote umami...

Really? I always thought it was ordinarily used to connote 'not sweet'. 'Savory courses' 'savory pies' and so on..
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Keith Levenberg:
The problem with "savory" is that it's ordinarily used to connote umami...

Really? I always thought it was ordinarily used to connote 'not sweet'. 'Savory courses' 'savory pies' and so on..

Exactly. Umami is often described as savory for lack of a better term.
 
Salty is one of the 4 taste components on the tongue. With umami as the 5th, another term was needed to splain' the flavor. Savory is commonly used.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Keith Levenberg:
The problem with "savory" is that it's ordinarily used to connote umami...

Really? I always thought it was ordinarily used to connote 'not sweet'. 'Savory courses' 'savory pies' and so on..
Wikipedia:
Umami (IPA: [uː mɑː mi]), popularly referred to as savoriness,[1][2][3][4][5]. . . .
 
originally posted by Keith Levenberg:
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Keith Levenberg:
The problem with "savory" is that it's ordinarily used to connote umami...

Really? I always thought it was ordinarily used to connote 'not sweet'. 'Savory courses' 'savory pies' and so on..
Wikipedia:
Umami (IPA: [uː mɑː mi]), popularly referred to as savoriness,[1][2][3][4][5]. . . .

Damn! Now I'm going to have to go back and edit thousands of tasting notes.
 
Well, if it's really glutamate then wines with lots of autolyzed yeast would be the ones to qualify--sur lie Muscadet, batonnaged Burgs, Champagnes.

But that's not how I read Asimov.
 
The sentence "Fino sherries, especially manzanillas, are saline rather than sweet, for example" suggests that Asimov is using savory to mean saline, but maybe only here.
 
My sense is that he is only using savory as an antonym for sweet (i.e., "We first had some savory entrees that were followed by some sweets.")

I don't think "savory" can only be used to describe an umami flavor.
 
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