A burgundy night

David Lloyd

David Lloyd
Friend Lindsay McCall was quite excited about going to IPNC and asked us around to dinner to discuss. Obviously we had to do a few wines blind. The first was a Domaine Ramonet 2005 Chassagne Montrachet Les Ruchottes. Very subtle nose, that was a bit of tease. Is it there? Is it closed? Was that some peach/melon? The palate was equally subtle but over an hour or so seemed to build. It shows a little almond, a bit of peach and quite a bit of melon, moderate length but overall quite restrained with firm acid. Nice but not great and maybe even a little disappointing.
The next two wines were served together and brought about quite a lot of discussion. The first was high acid and tight fruit with considerable reduction, but with concentration and pretty fruit in back. It seemed quite grippy so I wondered if it was Vosne Romanee. The youthful colour and highish acid suggested 2007. We waited some time for this to come around and even after an hour I was not comfortable with the reduction. However, we continued the discussion and eventually the options of Vougeot Vs CM Vs Vosne R were offered. This left me a little perplexed as it reminded me of an Anne Gros that I had a few months back but it was a VR and I saw some prettiness underneath, but then the grippiness? Was it the reduction or the VR tannin? I punted on VR and lo and behold the wine was Domaine Anne Gros Chambolle Musigny Le Combe D'Orveau. The other wine was absolutely pretty but tighter with less acid impact. None of us could get over how pretty it was, just gorgeous. The first question was C d Beaune or C de Nuits? Pretty Volnay or pretty Chambolle M I wondered? Punted on C de Nuits. We moved on to the year. Mmmmm, balance/prettiness suggested 2006 BUT the ones I have seen over last 12 mths have been closed. Nothing else matched so it was 2006 I chanced. Move on the appelation: Vougeot, CM or VR we were asked. Had to be CM as it was so pretty with a little tannin grip so I suggested CM. Turns out it was JC Boisset 2006 Vosne Romanee Les Quartiers de Nuits. Lovely wine and was the hands down favourite that went extremely well with the duck dish we had at Paringa Estate. A great meal with thanks to Lindsay and Jill. Yes I can recommend the JC Boisset. Last JC Boisset I had was the Charmes-Chambertin sealed under screwcap as I recall that was also fabulous. Anyone else had many of these? Yes, I recall Burghound found the Charmes-Chambertin reduced but on that occasion it was as clean as the VR we had last night which was under natural cork.
 
I've had a few Boisset. The 02 Volnay Brouillards has been very impressive a couple of times. Pure, deep, elegant, very nice. The 05 Latricieres was pretty good. Some oak char that it absorbed quickly, a bit tough and not quite the complexity I sought. Still very good but there was seemingly a slight bit of brett. It was sort the kind of wine you quite like but don't seek more of. I have some 05 Pommard 1er, can't remember the cru, that I've not yet tried as well.

I recall some discussion the the winemaker is the ex assistant/cellarmaster type at Leroy which adds mystique perhaps.
 
originally posted by Josh Beck:
I've had a few Boisset. The 02 Volnay Brouillards has been very impressive a couple of times. Pure, deep, elegant, very nice. The 05 Latricieres was pretty good. Some oak char that it absorbed quickly, a bit tough and not quite the complexity I sought. Still very good but there was seemingly a slight bit of brett. It was sort the kind of wine you quite like but don't seek more of. I have some 05 Pommard 1er, can't remember the cru, that I've not yet tried as well.

I recall some discussion the the winemaker is the ex assistant/cellarmaster type at Leroy which adds mystique perhaps.

Hi Josh, I recall seeing one or 2 with brett a few years back but the two JC Boisset wines I have tried in recent years have been clean and bright. I was most impressed. The winemaker is young and very handsome and does not like brett or wines suffering from cork issues. We met him in 2008 which prompted a few people I know to buy the JC Boisset wines. I love Volnay but the only one to be offered was Carelle Sous Chapelle, a premier cru, which based on the weekends tasting prompted me to order some last night. BTW, George Mihaly (Paradigm Hill) and I have both been to your vineyards and know you haven't been to the Mornington Peninsula, so if you want a brief look at my vines, follow the link
cheers David PS: 4 weeks behind harvest of past 4 years.
 
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