1997 Noël Verset Cornas
Complex, cerebral nose with nuances of smoke, leather, herbs and mountain flowers. Palate is still fresh, and linear, showing notes of grilled meat, leather, forest, rocks and pebbles, bullion cube, with a core of fresh blackberry fruit amidst all the complex notes. Returning to this wine after a good amount of air, lots of green olives. The structure is smooth, tapered and at the sides, and allows the complexities to shine. Truly an intriguing, cerebral and captivating wine, showing aged Syrah qualities and complexities, and yet clean and fresh at the same time. A wow wine.
1999 Guy Bernard Côte-Rôtie
I haven't checked in on this wine in at least two or three years, having enjoyed it frequently in its youth (at ~ $25/b, it represented good value as other more popular Cote Rotie producers were getting more expensive). It's developed well in the last few years, although it's not a profound Cote Rotie and I'm not sure it will ever become stellar. Good textural resolution since the last time, with the mouthfeel silky and the tannins thinned out, but this wine suffers from a rather hollow midpalate that is reinforced by a slight metallic note (and I just noticed that my last tasting note on the 2001 Guy Bernard Cote Rotie also cites a metallic note). Good Syrah typicity, with blue/black fruit, grilled meats and a dusting of dry spices. But it lacks high notes and it lacks that special violet/florality that makes Cote Rotie special. Good acidity that will carry this wine further, but it needs to fill out on the palate and, especially, overcome that midpalate hollowness, and I don't think that after eleven years, it will now do that.
2001 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon
The most youthful wine of the night, showing clean and primary blue/black fruit, an undercurrent of rocks, and floral top notes. Still a primary palate at ten years, direct and linear and in need of some time to broaden and fill out. The tannins are smooth and the structure is not unduly dominant, and yet still the wine seems to be reticent and keeping most of its inner qualities hidden, for now. I’d like to revisit this wine in 5 years.
1998 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Garrigue, lavender, forest floor, smooth raspberry, red cherry and black fruits, bit of white pepper, soft tannins, very balanced palate with nothing sticking out, good cohesion, long finish. Elegant and feminine, while clearly there is good density here and still a lot in reserve. Drinking well but should be on a plateau for continued goodness for years to come. Gorgeous showing.
1999 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape
On the first night, the palate showed interesting dried tropical fruit notes, like the bits of mango and other dried fruits that one finds in trail mix. That eventually smoothed out into more standard CdP plum notes and a bit of garrigue, and overall it's rather clean and not showing any brett or funk notes. The tannins are smoothed out, the mouthfeel rather resolved, but with some firmness on the finish that suggests that this wine is not exactly at its apex yet. A night of air is beneficial, showing no oxidation or roasted notes, the fruit really getting more focused and showing more spiced plum and sour cherry, with a bit of spice, and plenty of vibrant acidity. A good showing to be sure, yet not profound, and I'm not sure this '99 Beau will ever be profound. May soften further and develop more complexities over the coming years, in which case it might become a more cerebral wine.
1998 Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Really nice showing. Upon opening, smooth black fruits with a hint of barnyard funk, the sides of the palate are nicely contoured with age, but the palate is still focused with a core of dark cherry fruit. There is a lot of complexity going on here: soil, light underbrush, leather, liquorice, even a touch of sous bois. Long, complex finish. The tannins are showing some softness and the wine as a whole is heading into a middle age integration, but there is still plenty of acidity to carry this wine further. Drinking well now, but still upside to cellar longer.
1999 Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf-du-Pape
First night: Eh. Not a strong showing. There is some black cherry fruit at the core, but the surrounding palate is brown and murky and shows a bit too much funk (what GdalP would call "pigeon coop"). Tannins are gone. By comparison, a '99 Vieux Telegraphe a couple of weeks ago was stronger and had years to go (although that particular bottle of VT may have been an aberration).
Second night, after refrigeration in a vessel that was not even airtight, so this had plenty of oxygen, and didn't degrade. This wine is charming me more. The palate is long and shows a bit of fruit sweetness; the funk is still there, with typical Donjon melted truffle, animal fur, brown notes along with red fruit notes that have emerged. Smooth contours, thin tannin, palate lengthens to the finish, but it's not broad in the mouth. There is still acidity to carry the wine, and I wonder whether this will gain additional complexity with more bottle age. The fact that it's not only held up overnight, but actually become a more pleasing wine, suggests to me that maybe there is more to be gained with further cellaring.
2000 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape La Crau
Big and brawny at first, with underbrush, pepper and alcohol sticking out; needs to smooth out. With a couple of hours of air, raspberry fruit, red and black fruit, lots of acidity and lots of pepper. On the second night, really impressive, no degradation overnight, with a core of solid raspberry fruit, very woodsy and spicy, with terrific underlying structure that is just starting to soften. Long on the palate, juicy acidity on the sides, good grip. Long finish of minerals and spices. Plenty of depth, class and fortitude. I’m very impressed with how good this is showing right now, but it still has plenty of time to go longer in the cellar. This is rocking.
2000 Domaine du Pégaü Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée
Strong nose initially, zesty and assertive, lots of nuance and spices. Palate shows a focused raspberry core, lots of white pepper, bloody meat, softer tannin, just lovely and nuanced and captivating. Even Deb, no lover of Chateauneuf, is impressed. The wine evolves over the course of the evening and never loses my interest. The finish is still firm, suggesting that some additional cellaring might be a good thing. While the tannin is softer than in years past, there is plenty of acidic backbone.
2000 Domaine Charvin Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Didn't love it, which is unusual for me and Charvin's CdPs. I last had this wine three years ago, and since then, the wine has lost the sweetness of fruit but has not gained much in the way of complexity. The wine is showing less in terms of fruit, size and structure (in particular, the tannin has really thinned out), which are all not unusual at this point, but there is a void in the midpalate that makes this 2000 much less impressive than the 2001 Charvin, for example.
2001 Domaine Santa Duc Gigondas
I gave this wine a horrid review in Dec '08. 2+ years have allowed this wine to settle down. It's not a great wine, but it's better. It shows a lot of pepper on the palate. It's like a Zin, but it lacks underlying stuffing. Ten years of age have tempered its outward assertiveness, but makes its internal weakness more apparent. Ok, drinkable, but far from memorable.
2001 Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Good initial entry of focused dark fruits. As it aired, it softened around the edges. The tannins seems weak to me, the acidity showing more spine and more supportive than the tannin. Raspberry ganache and forest floor on the palate, with a subtle undernote of birdcage poop and a suggestion of damp basement in the background, but no, I don't think it's TCA, just the remnants of a funk that has, for the most part, molded with the rest of the wine. I know Donjon to display more of the brown range of fruit, along with with animal or horse qualities, but tonight's bottle is not so much animál nor showing brown. The fruit is linear and focused while not being especially vigorous; it's showing its 10 years in smoothness around the edges, a CdP that is heading toward integration - - although I have to be honest and say that while it was enjoyable, it lacked underlying power. Perhaps another few years will make this impressive; right now it's good but not a wow wine. The purity of the palate, the balance, the traditional aspects are all well and good, but there should be something else under the surface at this point. I'll note that there was zero degradation overnight, and the wine maintained its purity and focus, so I'm optimistic that another few years could bring good results.
2001 Clos des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Just beautiful. It's easy to 'dis Clos des Papes on a number of levels: the overblown 2003, the change in style following the '04 vintage, the price increases. But, if you put all that to the side and just focus on the 2001 in your glass, wow. This has reached a plateau that is just so enjoyable. It's completely balanced. I kept looking for alcohol peeking out (like more recent vintages of Clos des Papes), or over-ripeness, but there is none. It's getting to a point of complete integration; the tannins are just so gentle right now. The fruit is Grenache red, with occasional turns toward black raspberry. The nose is perfumed and alluring. Just a great wine, at a great point in its evolution. I can remember smoking on airplanes, $0.99 gasoline, and $35 Clos des Papes.
2004 Clos des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Less volume than bottles tasted a few years ago (which is a good thing, as this was a bit too "big" when first released and needed some time to calm down). While still noticeably deep on the palate, it has condenced its bulk. Deep red fruit and lighter pink strawberry notes. Tannins still a bit rugged and in need of more time. The alcohol (15%!) sticks out too much on the second day. But on the third day, this is just lovely, the wine is better balanced, the fruit very pure.
2004 Domaine de la Côte de l'Ange Chateauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes
When first uncorked, the bouquet evoked the aroma of being in a winery after harvest, when the air is full of the scent of crushed grapes and grape juice spilled on concrete. Dark palate, featuring dark berries, a bit of Middle Eastern bazaar spices, and smooth tannin. Deb is no fan of CdP, especially raisiny Grenache, but she liked this wine precisely because it does not appear to be a CdP that is the product of over-ripeness. More dark berries than red-fruited Grenache, with no excess of ripeness nor alcohol. This has become a better balanced and focused wine since the last bottle I opened in January 2009. The sides are a little glossy, but I'm thinking that that is more a result of the smoothness of the last few years in the cellar, rather than a sign of a spoofy wine. Good showing. UPDATE: After one night in the fridge, there were no oxidized notes, but the wine was bitter on the palate and the glossy sides and smooth tannins were replaced by a dusty, gritty texture. Much better on the first night.
2005 Domaine Saint-Damien Gigondas Les Souteyrades
On the first night, the palate is substantially more linear, condensed and much less broad than in the past. There is also an annoying metallic note. Much better on the second night, the wine has come together and the metallic note is gone. The fruit is showing better, juicier, more at the center. Good mix of red and black fruits, good acidity, surprisingly soft tannins on this second night. Overall, good but far from profound.
2005 Domaine Charvin Côtes du Rhône (Le Poutet)
Lots of red fruits, cherry and strawberry, with a hit of white pepper and some pine scents also. Not as angular as I recall bottles shortly after release, yet there is still some strong tannin left here. No degradation overnight, the wine is showing clean red fruit with good vibrancy and focus, and little tannin overnight. Still, I’d give this one another 6-12 months of age and check then to see if it’s ready.
2005 Domaine de la Charbonnière Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Vieilles Vignes
Very pure expression of kirsch and a note of charcoal, suave tannins that are integrating well; quite delicious. But, there is a slight degradation in freshness overnight. I would not hold this wine for 10 years (also based on the 2000 which I continue to pull from my cellar but wished I had enjoyed them much younger). But just lovely now as a pop and pour.
2009 Pierre Gonon Vin de Pays de l'Ardèche Les Iles Feray
I really love Syrah, Northern Rhone Syrah in particular, and this is good for a cheap fix. It has the cool blue/black fruits on the palate and the floral aromatics that I was seeking. Round and full in the mouth, softly textured with some acidity showing, but the tannins masked by the generous fruit. It even has some nice high notes, but what it lacks is depth. There are highs and the middle is broad, soft and generous, but it's not deep at all. Still, it is tasty, and it is a bargain.
2000 Edmunds St. John Syrah Wylie-Fenaughty
I was in the mood for some California fruit, and this wine delivered just what I was seeking - delicious fruit that ran the spectrum from boysenberry to red to purple to blue fruits, balanced and not too assertive, slightly rounded palate and soft tannins after eleven years, with lots of interesting nuances like liquorice and grilled meat. Another ESJ Syrah that has one foot in CA and the other in the Rhone. Delicious.
Complex, cerebral nose with nuances of smoke, leather, herbs and mountain flowers. Palate is still fresh, and linear, showing notes of grilled meat, leather, forest, rocks and pebbles, bullion cube, with a core of fresh blackberry fruit amidst all the complex notes. Returning to this wine after a good amount of air, lots of green olives. The structure is smooth, tapered and at the sides, and allows the complexities to shine. Truly an intriguing, cerebral and captivating wine, showing aged Syrah qualities and complexities, and yet clean and fresh at the same time. A wow wine.
1999 Guy Bernard Côte-Rôtie
I haven't checked in on this wine in at least two or three years, having enjoyed it frequently in its youth (at ~ $25/b, it represented good value as other more popular Cote Rotie producers were getting more expensive). It's developed well in the last few years, although it's not a profound Cote Rotie and I'm not sure it will ever become stellar. Good textural resolution since the last time, with the mouthfeel silky and the tannins thinned out, but this wine suffers from a rather hollow midpalate that is reinforced by a slight metallic note (and I just noticed that my last tasting note on the 2001 Guy Bernard Cote Rotie also cites a metallic note). Good Syrah typicity, with blue/black fruit, grilled meats and a dusting of dry spices. But it lacks high notes and it lacks that special violet/florality that makes Cote Rotie special. Good acidity that will carry this wine further, but it needs to fill out on the palate and, especially, overcome that midpalate hollowness, and I don't think that after eleven years, it will now do that.
2001 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon
The most youthful wine of the night, showing clean and primary blue/black fruit, an undercurrent of rocks, and floral top notes. Still a primary palate at ten years, direct and linear and in need of some time to broaden and fill out. The tannins are smooth and the structure is not unduly dominant, and yet still the wine seems to be reticent and keeping most of its inner qualities hidden, for now. I’d like to revisit this wine in 5 years.
1998 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Garrigue, lavender, forest floor, smooth raspberry, red cherry and black fruits, bit of white pepper, soft tannins, very balanced palate with nothing sticking out, good cohesion, long finish. Elegant and feminine, while clearly there is good density here and still a lot in reserve. Drinking well but should be on a plateau for continued goodness for years to come. Gorgeous showing.
1999 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape
On the first night, the palate showed interesting dried tropical fruit notes, like the bits of mango and other dried fruits that one finds in trail mix. That eventually smoothed out into more standard CdP plum notes and a bit of garrigue, and overall it's rather clean and not showing any brett or funk notes. The tannins are smoothed out, the mouthfeel rather resolved, but with some firmness on the finish that suggests that this wine is not exactly at its apex yet. A night of air is beneficial, showing no oxidation or roasted notes, the fruit really getting more focused and showing more spiced plum and sour cherry, with a bit of spice, and plenty of vibrant acidity. A good showing to be sure, yet not profound, and I'm not sure this '99 Beau will ever be profound. May soften further and develop more complexities over the coming years, in which case it might become a more cerebral wine.
1998 Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Really nice showing. Upon opening, smooth black fruits with a hint of barnyard funk, the sides of the palate are nicely contoured with age, but the palate is still focused with a core of dark cherry fruit. There is a lot of complexity going on here: soil, light underbrush, leather, liquorice, even a touch of sous bois. Long, complex finish. The tannins are showing some softness and the wine as a whole is heading into a middle age integration, but there is still plenty of acidity to carry this wine further. Drinking well now, but still upside to cellar longer.
1999 Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf-du-Pape
First night: Eh. Not a strong showing. There is some black cherry fruit at the core, but the surrounding palate is brown and murky and shows a bit too much funk (what GdalP would call "pigeon coop"). Tannins are gone. By comparison, a '99 Vieux Telegraphe a couple of weeks ago was stronger and had years to go (although that particular bottle of VT may have been an aberration).
Second night, after refrigeration in a vessel that was not even airtight, so this had plenty of oxygen, and didn't degrade. This wine is charming me more. The palate is long and shows a bit of fruit sweetness; the funk is still there, with typical Donjon melted truffle, animal fur, brown notes along with red fruit notes that have emerged. Smooth contours, thin tannin, palate lengthens to the finish, but it's not broad in the mouth. There is still acidity to carry the wine, and I wonder whether this will gain additional complexity with more bottle age. The fact that it's not only held up overnight, but actually become a more pleasing wine, suggests to me that maybe there is more to be gained with further cellaring.
2000 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape La Crau
Big and brawny at first, with underbrush, pepper and alcohol sticking out; needs to smooth out. With a couple of hours of air, raspberry fruit, red and black fruit, lots of acidity and lots of pepper. On the second night, really impressive, no degradation overnight, with a core of solid raspberry fruit, very woodsy and spicy, with terrific underlying structure that is just starting to soften. Long on the palate, juicy acidity on the sides, good grip. Long finish of minerals and spices. Plenty of depth, class and fortitude. I’m very impressed with how good this is showing right now, but it still has plenty of time to go longer in the cellar. This is rocking.
2000 Domaine du Pégaü Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée
Strong nose initially, zesty and assertive, lots of nuance and spices. Palate shows a focused raspberry core, lots of white pepper, bloody meat, softer tannin, just lovely and nuanced and captivating. Even Deb, no lover of Chateauneuf, is impressed. The wine evolves over the course of the evening and never loses my interest. The finish is still firm, suggesting that some additional cellaring might be a good thing. While the tannin is softer than in years past, there is plenty of acidic backbone.
2000 Domaine Charvin Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Didn't love it, which is unusual for me and Charvin's CdPs. I last had this wine three years ago, and since then, the wine has lost the sweetness of fruit but has not gained much in the way of complexity. The wine is showing less in terms of fruit, size and structure (in particular, the tannin has really thinned out), which are all not unusual at this point, but there is a void in the midpalate that makes this 2000 much less impressive than the 2001 Charvin, for example.
2001 Domaine Santa Duc Gigondas
I gave this wine a horrid review in Dec '08. 2+ years have allowed this wine to settle down. It's not a great wine, but it's better. It shows a lot of pepper on the palate. It's like a Zin, but it lacks underlying stuffing. Ten years of age have tempered its outward assertiveness, but makes its internal weakness more apparent. Ok, drinkable, but far from memorable.
2001 Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Good initial entry of focused dark fruits. As it aired, it softened around the edges. The tannins seems weak to me, the acidity showing more spine and more supportive than the tannin. Raspberry ganache and forest floor on the palate, with a subtle undernote of birdcage poop and a suggestion of damp basement in the background, but no, I don't think it's TCA, just the remnants of a funk that has, for the most part, molded with the rest of the wine. I know Donjon to display more of the brown range of fruit, along with with animal or horse qualities, but tonight's bottle is not so much animál nor showing brown. The fruit is linear and focused while not being especially vigorous; it's showing its 10 years in smoothness around the edges, a CdP that is heading toward integration - - although I have to be honest and say that while it was enjoyable, it lacked underlying power. Perhaps another few years will make this impressive; right now it's good but not a wow wine. The purity of the palate, the balance, the traditional aspects are all well and good, but there should be something else under the surface at this point. I'll note that there was zero degradation overnight, and the wine maintained its purity and focus, so I'm optimistic that another few years could bring good results.
2001 Clos des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Just beautiful. It's easy to 'dis Clos des Papes on a number of levels: the overblown 2003, the change in style following the '04 vintage, the price increases. But, if you put all that to the side and just focus on the 2001 in your glass, wow. This has reached a plateau that is just so enjoyable. It's completely balanced. I kept looking for alcohol peeking out (like more recent vintages of Clos des Papes), or over-ripeness, but there is none. It's getting to a point of complete integration; the tannins are just so gentle right now. The fruit is Grenache red, with occasional turns toward black raspberry. The nose is perfumed and alluring. Just a great wine, at a great point in its evolution. I can remember smoking on airplanes, $0.99 gasoline, and $35 Clos des Papes.
2004 Clos des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Less volume than bottles tasted a few years ago (which is a good thing, as this was a bit too "big" when first released and needed some time to calm down). While still noticeably deep on the palate, it has condenced its bulk. Deep red fruit and lighter pink strawberry notes. Tannins still a bit rugged and in need of more time. The alcohol (15%!) sticks out too much on the second day. But on the third day, this is just lovely, the wine is better balanced, the fruit very pure.
2004 Domaine de la Côte de l'Ange Chateauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes
When first uncorked, the bouquet evoked the aroma of being in a winery after harvest, when the air is full of the scent of crushed grapes and grape juice spilled on concrete. Dark palate, featuring dark berries, a bit of Middle Eastern bazaar spices, and smooth tannin. Deb is no fan of CdP, especially raisiny Grenache, but she liked this wine precisely because it does not appear to be a CdP that is the product of over-ripeness. More dark berries than red-fruited Grenache, with no excess of ripeness nor alcohol. This has become a better balanced and focused wine since the last bottle I opened in January 2009. The sides are a little glossy, but I'm thinking that that is more a result of the smoothness of the last few years in the cellar, rather than a sign of a spoofy wine. Good showing. UPDATE: After one night in the fridge, there were no oxidized notes, but the wine was bitter on the palate and the glossy sides and smooth tannins were replaced by a dusty, gritty texture. Much better on the first night.
2005 Domaine Saint-Damien Gigondas Les Souteyrades
On the first night, the palate is substantially more linear, condensed and much less broad than in the past. There is also an annoying metallic note. Much better on the second night, the wine has come together and the metallic note is gone. The fruit is showing better, juicier, more at the center. Good mix of red and black fruits, good acidity, surprisingly soft tannins on this second night. Overall, good but far from profound.
2005 Domaine Charvin Côtes du Rhône (Le Poutet)
Lots of red fruits, cherry and strawberry, with a hit of white pepper and some pine scents also. Not as angular as I recall bottles shortly after release, yet there is still some strong tannin left here. No degradation overnight, the wine is showing clean red fruit with good vibrancy and focus, and little tannin overnight. Still, I’d give this one another 6-12 months of age and check then to see if it’s ready.
2005 Domaine de la Charbonnière Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Vieilles Vignes
Very pure expression of kirsch and a note of charcoal, suave tannins that are integrating well; quite delicious. But, there is a slight degradation in freshness overnight. I would not hold this wine for 10 years (also based on the 2000 which I continue to pull from my cellar but wished I had enjoyed them much younger). But just lovely now as a pop and pour.
2009 Pierre Gonon Vin de Pays de l'Ardèche Les Iles Feray
I really love Syrah, Northern Rhone Syrah in particular, and this is good for a cheap fix. It has the cool blue/black fruits on the palate and the floral aromatics that I was seeking. Round and full in the mouth, softly textured with some acidity showing, but the tannins masked by the generous fruit. It even has some nice high notes, but what it lacks is depth. There are highs and the middle is broad, soft and generous, but it's not deep at all. Still, it is tasty, and it is a bargain.
2000 Edmunds St. John Syrah Wylie-Fenaughty
I was in the mood for some California fruit, and this wine delivered just what I was seeking - delicious fruit that ran the spectrum from boysenberry to red to purple to blue fruits, balanced and not too assertive, slightly rounded palate and soft tannins after eleven years, with lots of interesting nuances like liquorice and grilled meat. Another ESJ Syrah that has one foot in CA and the other in the Rhone. Delicious.
