Grape Confusion

S

Saina Nieminen

Saina Nieminen
Pannonhalmi Apátsági Pincészet Tramini 2010 - Hungary; Pannonhalma-Sokoroalja; 14,81; 12,5% abv; label

From Traminer (i.e. possibly the same as Savagnin in the Jura?) from the Széldomb vineyard, but it smells more like an elegant version of Gewürztraminer rather than any Savagnin I have had. And, indeed, Alko sells this not as a Traminer but as a Gewürztraminer. Mineral and floral, it smells of rosewater and citrus. Fleshy and grippy from a bit of skin contact (though not so much that this would be an "orange" wine). Adequate acidity makes this a moreish wine. Very nice!

So, what is the grape - Savagnin or Gewürztraminer? And what is the current knowledge of how the two are related? Is it that Savagnin/Traminer is a parent of Gewürztraminer? In which parts of the world is Traminer a name for Gewürztraminer and which parts of the world is it a name for Savagnin? Is Alko wrong in selling this as Gewürz?
 
I thought Gewurztraminer is a clone of Traminer, but maybe that's an overly literal meaning, what with the "spicy traminer" thing. So, I guess if it's more on the floral and aromatic side of things, then yeah, calling it gewurz is apropos.
 
The "original" traminer-grape comes from Tramin in South-Tyrol. Our from this variety the traminer has spread both geographically and has loads of mutations. Both Savagnin and Gewürztraminer are mutations of the original grape or mutations of mutations.

The hungarian tramini is a red traminer-variety. According to the references I have seen the tramini that has grown in Hungary for years is close to the gewürztraminer, but almost certainly IMO it would be a different mutation given the geographical differences.
 
Just to add another wrinkle, one of my producers from the south Tyrol says that he doesn't believe the story about 'Tramin-er', and thinks the variety came from the Jura.
 
originally posted by Oliver McCrum:
Just to add another wrinkle, one of my producers from the south Tyrol says that he doesn't believe the story about 'Tramin-er', and thinks the variety came from the Jura.
Click to expand...

I think few in the Alto Adige actually believe that the grape originated there.
 
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