Positive surprises from Jacquère, Sylvaner, Priorat & Sumoll

Saina Nieminen

Saina Nieminen
Domaine Giachino Apremont 2009 - Savoie, 11% abv
Quite a lovely mineral aroma with plenty of apple, hay and slight cream (though unoaked) smells. Very crisp and bracing palate, high acidity, very long and vivacious finish. Lovely liveliness. I have only had one other Jacquère before (also from Giachino) and I certainly now want to try more.

Domaine Loew Sylvaner Vérité 2008 - Westhoffen, Alsace; 13,5%
What a lovely aroma of orange marmalade and sea shells. Richness was my initial impression but that proved to be an illusion: wonderfully steely acidity and minerality and electricity. Fuck me this is good. I had no idea Sylvaner could be this interesting. But I shouldn't be surprised at Loew making it, since everything I've tried from him is excellent.

Franck Massard Priorat Humilitat 2009 - 14,5% abv; 60% Garnacha, 40% Cariñena
It's not often that I can say that I like a Priorat, but I did quite enjoy this one! The first great positive was that I didn't smell any oak (only 30% of the wine is aged in oak, and only a small bit of that 30% is new oak); the second positive was that though obviously ripe, I didn't smell over-ripeness or raisiny character. Instead it is fresh and refreshing despite the ripe fruit. Moreish. And I think this is the first time I have said "moreish" about a Priorat.

Can Ràfols dels Caus Sumoll 2009 - Penedès, 12,5%
From the Sumoll-grape, an authochthonous Catalan variety; aged in chestnut barrels. A really lovely aroma of bright red fruits, cherry pit. The cherry pit tartness continues on the palate, lovely bright acidity and crunchy tannins. I loved this, but I think many will find the structure on the hard side and fruit on the lean side.
 
I don't know, especially because IIRC Loew's vineyards are in a cooler part of Alsace. But with this producer I still don't suspect any spoofy methods.
 
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