Oswaldo Costa
Oswaldo Costa
Earlier this year, at the last Dressner tasting I attended before Joe's passing in September, among some of the finest children of France and Italy, my favorite was a white from Bugey, a small AOC which I had barely heard of. Bugey is located near Lyons, between the Jura and Savoy, and from the area hails the famous poulet de Bresse, the only chicken with its own AOC. This wine is made from the grape Altesse, also known as Roussette de Savoie or Roussette du Bugey, and a genetic relative of Hungarian Furmint, if google is to be believed.
Last night, the aroma was as attractive as I remembered, with great freshness, pot-pourri of white flowers, delicate minerality, and guaraná (one smells what one knows). Reminiscent of the cozy florality of an unpretentious moscato d'Asti, whose only aim in life is to make you happy. Easy to drink, though a little ripe and sweet in 2009 (2010 should be perfect). Has a spine of acidity, but seemed a little bit lacking in consistency, and the finish could be longer. But the nose is delovely.
But the gestalt was not quite as winsome last night, so I tried to understand why this wine enchanted me so much six months ago. It is a commonplace that those who disrespect wine by tasting dozens without food and award points give long shrift to the ones who tear off their clothes and sit on your lap. Even at a tasting of Dressner wines, the sheer quantity natural goodness discourages respectful understanding. I realized that it was exactly the intensity of this nose, through the very intangibility of its assault, that overcame palate fatigue and performed a lap dance for the limbic system, stiffening some long forgotten madeleine.
Last night, the aroma was as attractive as I remembered, with great freshness, pot-pourri of white flowers, delicate minerality, and guaraná (one smells what one knows). Reminiscent of the cozy florality of an unpretentious moscato d'Asti, whose only aim in life is to make you happy. Easy to drink, though a little ripe and sweet in 2009 (2010 should be perfect). Has a spine of acidity, but seemed a little bit lacking in consistency, and the finish could be longer. But the nose is delovely.
But the gestalt was not quite as winsome last night, so I tried to understand why this wine enchanted me so much six months ago. It is a commonplace that those who disrespect wine by tasting dozens without food and award points give long shrift to the ones who tear off their clothes and sit on your lap. Even at a tasting of Dressner wines, the sheer quantity natural goodness discourages respectful understanding. I realized that it was exactly the intensity of this nose, through the very intangibility of its assault, that overcame palate fatigue and performed a lap dance for the limbic system, stiffening some long forgotten madeleine.
