Saina Nieminen
Saina Nieminen
I spent a couple days in Barcelona and environs - mainly eating and drinking, which was nice. My boss is rather a fan of Catalan wines, which shows in what we enjoyed over long lunches and dinners.
On the first evening we had a couple glasses that had been recommended as good value. I wasn't particularly excited by any of them:
2005 Freixenet Beso de Rechenna Bobal Crianza
Quite reductive with aromas of rubber and dark fruit. Sweetish and darkly fruity palate, not too much oak, well made, but not really memorable.
2006 Toms Cusin Costers del Segre Vilosell
Started out with some sweet but rather attractive red berry aromas, but the longer it was open the more a slight, but annoying vanillary oakiness started rearing its ugly head. Full bodied, sweet but decent structure. Probably a very fair value wine for those who tolerate a more oaky style than I do.
2007 Talai Berri Getariako Txakolina
A nice nose with sea breeze and green fruit; sadly the palate was soft, fruity (!!!! - since when has Txakoli been fruity?) and a bit flabby and so unlike what Txakoli should be like that I wonder if this was the way it should be even though I can't see any obvious faults with it.
Gladly the next day, things really picked up! First we met Daniel Snchez of Azul y Garanza, whom we import, over lunch at La Fabrica in Vilafranca del Peneds. The restaurant makes local and Japanese (the owner's wife is Japanese), so I had a starter of fish tartar (fantastic - I'll get up a picture of it once I find it: it was both an artistic and a culinary delight) with a very enjoyable selection of sushi instead of a main.
We had a couple interesting wines also (none from Azul y Garanza and none which we have a commercial interest in):
2007 Gramona Peneds Gessami Blanco
A strange blend of Muscat and Sauvignon Blanc - but it works! The nose shows obvious Muscat aromas but also a strong minerality and more refreshing, lifted, green fruit notes but they are very well integrated with the Muscat. Dry but fruity, quite delicate and even racy despite having Muscat's typical grapeyness. Mineral and dry aftertaste. Very much fun.
2003 Can Camps Peneds Pedradura
From the Marcelan grape, a cross of Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache. This was actually a pretty charming wine: sweet fruit, but not over the top, lovely savoury garrigue aromas, earthy, perhaps even a touch of brett but in so small amounts that the purity of the fruit is still evident. Well structured, not at all candied or over-ripe despite being a 2003, rather an honest, well made wine with lots of personality. I understand this seems some new oak, but that wasn't noticeable. Very nice.
Over dinner, we shared a bottle of:
2007 Pardas Catalunya Sumoll Rosat
This was quite simply a stunning Ros. Made from the little known, today little grown grape, Sumoll, which used to be widely grown in Catalunya but is now denied DO status. The nose is lovely: deep, earthy and complex with some lovely cherry aromas. Quite full bodied, but with great structure and grip and a long mineral finish. Though quite full bodied for a Ros, it is very moreish and the evaporation rate was extremely high. Speaking with the producers we represent and with some sommeliers, it seems that Pardas is one of the hot producers just now. I didn't see any of their reds on this trip, but this ros was certainly hugely interesting.
Next day, lunch was a fun affair: cheeses and cured meats at Vila Viniteca (a wonderful wine shop with quite a bit of older stuff, sometimes at very fair prices) with a couple of oldish white Riojas:
1976 R. Lpez de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Via Tondonia
Gold/orange. The nose reminds me of Musar's white: mineral, citrus, wax, earth and orange aromas - a little oxidative, but still with wonderful precision and purity and cut. Wonderful grip, quite full body, not aggressive but still forceful. A wonderful experience but with only white Musars having been in a similar style, I have huge trouble putting into words why I love this so much. Great stuff.
1989 R. Lpez de Heredia Rioja Reserva Via Tondonia
Like the '76 Gran Reserva, this Reserva was drinking beautifully though I guess should keep well. It started with a slight vanillary scent which gladly quickly disappeared. It became, just like the '76, a white reminiscent of Musar with its wax, nut and orange blossom aromas. Full body, vibrant and energetic - it really grips one's palate and doesn't let go. Savoury, oxidative and unending aftertaste. Gorgeous stuff.
One of the producers that we represent kindly arranged a table at a truly wonderful restaurant for the next day: Comer 24. I had the tasting menu, which they were happy to make to suit my dietary needs (no milk products) - and though much of European cuisine seems to use more milk and cream and butter than I would like, they made one of the most memorable meals I have eaten. Seven small courses, all meticulously prepared ... I'll have to fill in the details later if anyone is interested, I don't have the menu on hand.
2002 Domaine de l'Ecu Muscadet de Svre-et-Maine Expression de Gneiss
Lovely aromas of white fruit and minerals some citrus and sea breeze. Not very high acidity, but the citrus taste doesn't end. Mineral and quite lovely.
2002 Can Rfols dels Caus Peneds Gran Caus
A sweet nose, full of red berries and garrigue, some lifted scents - though a Bordeaux blend (Cab Franc heavy IIRC) it seemed more like a well made Grenache to me, with air it even had some vegetal, beetroot aromas that reminded me of Pinot. Full bodied, sweet fruit, on the border for me of what is pleasurable - any more ripeness and concentration and I wouldn't have enjoyed it. Perhaps not a typical Bordeaux blend, but at least in this maligned year it brought me great pleasure despite its overt sweetness.
That was quite a fun trip. I'll try to post photos once I find them.
-O
On the first evening we had a couple glasses that had been recommended as good value. I wasn't particularly excited by any of them:
2005 Freixenet Beso de Rechenna Bobal Crianza
Quite reductive with aromas of rubber and dark fruit. Sweetish and darkly fruity palate, not too much oak, well made, but not really memorable.
2006 Toms Cusin Costers del Segre Vilosell
Started out with some sweet but rather attractive red berry aromas, but the longer it was open the more a slight, but annoying vanillary oakiness started rearing its ugly head. Full bodied, sweet but decent structure. Probably a very fair value wine for those who tolerate a more oaky style than I do.
2007 Talai Berri Getariako Txakolina
A nice nose with sea breeze and green fruit; sadly the palate was soft, fruity (!!!! - since when has Txakoli been fruity?) and a bit flabby and so unlike what Txakoli should be like that I wonder if this was the way it should be even though I can't see any obvious faults with it.
Gladly the next day, things really picked up! First we met Daniel Snchez of Azul y Garanza, whom we import, over lunch at La Fabrica in Vilafranca del Peneds. The restaurant makes local and Japanese (the owner's wife is Japanese), so I had a starter of fish tartar (fantastic - I'll get up a picture of it once I find it: it was both an artistic and a culinary delight) with a very enjoyable selection of sushi instead of a main.
We had a couple interesting wines also (none from Azul y Garanza and none which we have a commercial interest in):
2007 Gramona Peneds Gessami Blanco
A strange blend of Muscat and Sauvignon Blanc - but it works! The nose shows obvious Muscat aromas but also a strong minerality and more refreshing, lifted, green fruit notes but they are very well integrated with the Muscat. Dry but fruity, quite delicate and even racy despite having Muscat's typical grapeyness. Mineral and dry aftertaste. Very much fun.
2003 Can Camps Peneds Pedradura
From the Marcelan grape, a cross of Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache. This was actually a pretty charming wine: sweet fruit, but not over the top, lovely savoury garrigue aromas, earthy, perhaps even a touch of brett but in so small amounts that the purity of the fruit is still evident. Well structured, not at all candied or over-ripe despite being a 2003, rather an honest, well made wine with lots of personality. I understand this seems some new oak, but that wasn't noticeable. Very nice.
Over dinner, we shared a bottle of:
2007 Pardas Catalunya Sumoll Rosat
This was quite simply a stunning Ros. Made from the little known, today little grown grape, Sumoll, which used to be widely grown in Catalunya but is now denied DO status. The nose is lovely: deep, earthy and complex with some lovely cherry aromas. Quite full bodied, but with great structure and grip and a long mineral finish. Though quite full bodied for a Ros, it is very moreish and the evaporation rate was extremely high. Speaking with the producers we represent and with some sommeliers, it seems that Pardas is one of the hot producers just now. I didn't see any of their reds on this trip, but this ros was certainly hugely interesting.
Next day, lunch was a fun affair: cheeses and cured meats at Vila Viniteca (a wonderful wine shop with quite a bit of older stuff, sometimes at very fair prices) with a couple of oldish white Riojas:
1976 R. Lpez de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Via Tondonia
Gold/orange. The nose reminds me of Musar's white: mineral, citrus, wax, earth and orange aromas - a little oxidative, but still with wonderful precision and purity and cut. Wonderful grip, quite full body, not aggressive but still forceful. A wonderful experience but with only white Musars having been in a similar style, I have huge trouble putting into words why I love this so much. Great stuff.
1989 R. Lpez de Heredia Rioja Reserva Via Tondonia
Like the '76 Gran Reserva, this Reserva was drinking beautifully though I guess should keep well. It started with a slight vanillary scent which gladly quickly disappeared. It became, just like the '76, a white reminiscent of Musar with its wax, nut and orange blossom aromas. Full body, vibrant and energetic - it really grips one's palate and doesn't let go. Savoury, oxidative and unending aftertaste. Gorgeous stuff.
One of the producers that we represent kindly arranged a table at a truly wonderful restaurant for the next day: Comer 24. I had the tasting menu, which they were happy to make to suit my dietary needs (no milk products) - and though much of European cuisine seems to use more milk and cream and butter than I would like, they made one of the most memorable meals I have eaten. Seven small courses, all meticulously prepared ... I'll have to fill in the details later if anyone is interested, I don't have the menu on hand.
2002 Domaine de l'Ecu Muscadet de Svre-et-Maine Expression de Gneiss
Lovely aromas of white fruit and minerals some citrus and sea breeze. Not very high acidity, but the citrus taste doesn't end. Mineral and quite lovely.
2002 Can Rfols dels Caus Peneds Gran Caus
A sweet nose, full of red berries and garrigue, some lifted scents - though a Bordeaux blend (Cab Franc heavy IIRC) it seemed more like a well made Grenache to me, with air it even had some vegetal, beetroot aromas that reminded me of Pinot. Full bodied, sweet fruit, on the border for me of what is pleasurable - any more ripeness and concentration and I wouldn't have enjoyed it. Perhaps not a typical Bordeaux blend, but at least in this maligned year it brought me great pleasure despite its overt sweetness.
That was quite a fun trip. I'll try to post photos once I find them.
-O