TN: Fluke at Brad's (Aug 18, 2012)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Don Rice, Cliff Rosenberg, Brad Kane, Jeff Grossman

Another of Brad's fishing trips results in a big catch: a 25" long fluke, which results in approx. 3.5# of filet. Brad musters a few troops and adds a Green Market menu:

- Olives and sliced sausage
- Mixed heirloom tomatoes, mozzarella, red onions and basil with a balsamic vinaigrette over baby arugula
- Broiled fluke (dressed simply with garlic, olive oil, thyme, lemon & paprika)
- Summer vegetable hash (sort of a succotash of yellow squash, zucchini, eggplant, shitake mushrooms, corn, bacon, jalapenos, heirloom cherry tomatoes, red onion, garlic, red bell pepper)
- Herbed garlic bread
- Apricot tart

While Brad chops vegetables the rest of us hang out near the kitchen, chatting about this and that and getting the wines started:

Bera 2010 Moscato d'Asti - reliable, fizzy rose perfume; turns out that this may have been the sweetest thing we drank all night

Cazin 2002 Cour-Cheverney "Cuvee Renaissance" - like resetting the clock on all those 1996s that we've drunk over the years (thanks to Coad): grapefruity zing, maybe some lemongrass or lemon oil in there, too; young and promising

With so few of us, we can actually sit like adults around the dining table! Gee! And Brad's cookery follows us there:

Dom. de Belliviere 2000 Jasnieres "Les Rosiers" - there is an oxidative note in the wine but not enough to dissuade either Brad or I (noted oxidatophobes); however, the general lack of flavor or substance is an obstacle to liking the wine; fwiw, very dry

Huet 2011 Vouvray Sec "Le Haut Lieu" - open for 9 days; initially, Don had opened the bottle looking for some good cut but it wasn't there; after returning from a family trip, the wine has lost a lot of its comfy-fluffy-cotton-candy and now offers screeching acidity with very little sugar to buffer it; not bad

Gerard Boulay 2010 Sancerre "Monts Damnes" - a nice wine, not as much clarity as other renditions of MD but still manages the magic trick of sneaking a lot of minerality and "stuffing" behind a simple front of chalk and acidity

F. Chidaine 2007 Montlouis "Clos Habert" - sec-tendre, perhaps? I seem to recall Chidaine saying that this vineyard does not rest on tuffeau and so does not show the usual flavor profile; this is definitely from a rocky terrain

Brovia 1995 Barolo "Villero" - dregs from earlier in the evening when Jay and I and a few others pulled corks at the cellar; at that time, this was decanted and showed very nicely, surprisingly fragrant for a 1995 though maybe the roses were a bit older and the tar not quite warmed-up to full smell; I was happy enough because my last couple of bottles of Brovia had been a bit musty and this one was clean; by the time we got to the post-fluke-pre-tart stage the wine had started to deteriorate with definite VA and inclining towards stewy

Edmunds St. John 2001 Syrah "Wylie-Fenaughty" - another refugee from the earlier cellar event, this wine was going strong then and still is, all violets and plums and definitely softened up a bunch

Dom. Bourillon Dorleans 1989 Vouvray Moelleux "La Coulee d'Or" "Tris de Noble Grains" - alive and well, let's hear it for the preservative properties of all that sugar, but it really doesn't taste very sweet and it isn't the powerhouse that the same vintage Huet is

Many, many thanks to Brad for sharing his ocean bounty and for all the hard work in putting the dinner together at the last moment.
 
I don't get the note on the Huet. I like bright wines too, but "screeching acidity with little sugar to buffer it" doesn't sound like "not bad."

I only have 5 or 6 bottles of the 02 Cazin left, so I opted for an 05 yesterday. Not surprisingly young, but grapefruit and lemon have shown up and said "present." I'll have to try one of my 04s soon.
 
Commiserations! Sounds like you must be back on this side of the pond.... The Huet really was very nice, stony and taught, not just a masochistic pleasure.

I think Jeff nailed all the wines. I'd add that the aromatics on the Jasnières were noticeably better on day two. The palate, alas, was not.

The Huet, Boulay, Cazin, and esp. the Chidaine (a very delicate version) were quite good, but the real star was the food.
 
2002 Caligramme was beautiful on Saturday, but farther along than I would have expected. I'm drinking the rest soon.
 
originally posted by Cliff:
Commiserations! Sounds like you must be back on this side of the pond.... The Huet really was very nice, stony and taught, not just a masochistic pleasure.

I think Jeff nailed all the wines. I'd add that the aromatics on the Jasnières were noticeably better on day two. The palate, alas, was not.

The Huet, Boulay, Cazin, and esp. the Chidaine (a very delicate version) were quite good, but the real star was the food.

Alas, yes, even back in the office.

Stony and taught I get.
 
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
Well, that teaches me to quote without reading carefully, anyway.

I'd refrained on commenting, for fear of having missed some über-obscure academic joke.

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
I didn't buy enough of the '96 regular!

That one was my house white and my parent's house white at the time. With my Garnet employee discount, I think it was $6 a bottle. Maybe even $5.70. I thought cheap white wine, they must make tons of this stuff, so it'll be around awhile. Alas, no. Between me and my folks, though, we probably went through four cases.

I still remember it being too severe for Coad at dinner at your place back then, though Andrew liked it.
 
Thanks for being note taker, Jeff. Nicely done.

Tough to make assumptions about the '11 Huet after it's been open for nine days, but I liked what was there. It was kind of a bit of a throwback to the style of the mid-90's and earlier at that point, though still perhaps a bit more generous. Don said it was similar to recent vintages on opening, though. This is the last vintage that Pinguet vinified, but he did not bottle this one.

I really enjoyed the Cazin and the Chidaine. The Cazin was a little tighter than I remember and not showing as much red fruit as it did on release, or as much as the '96 shows now. The Chidaine was all yellow fruits and mineral in a leaner and less sugared form than '05, '08 and '09. Quite nice.

I was hoping to open a Labaille Cuvee Buster with the fish, but I couldn't find the one bottle my inventory said I had. Thankfully, Don heeded my call for someone to bring a Sancerre and it went quite well with the fish. Perhaps it could've used a little more cut and personality, but it was easy going and enjoyable.

A fun evening and I'm glad some folks were able to enjoy the bounty.

One more pic for your enjoyment.

Fluke_dinner_II_8-18-12.JPG
 
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