As we gradually work our way through the cache of Selection Massale wines I picked up from Cory recently, over the past few nights we've tried a couple from Dupasquier. To say that I haven't had much experience with the red wines of the Savoie would be understatement of the most egregious sort (not that my exposure to the white wines of the Savoie has approached anything close to encyclopedic proportions either). What struck me about both is that they bore a stronger resemblance to certain CA wines then they did to wines of either the Jura or Burgundy. The 2006 Dupasquier Vin de Savoie Pinot was an absolutely lovely expression of the Pinot Noir grape, almost ethereally light yet packed with flavor both fruity and mineral. Yet the flavor profile put me in mind of Pinot Noir from Carneros, albeit with far greater acid cut and more minerality. Tonight with roast chicken we tried the 2008 Dupasquier Vin de Savoie Gamay which likewise proved to be lightweight yet flavorful, with typical Gamay acidity. When I smelled the wine, however, it brought to mind Steve Edmunds's lovely Bone-Jolly wines, which is no faint praise but quite surprising for a French Gamay. Both wines were fresh, food-friendly and eminently drinkable. Glou-glou, baby!
Mark Lipton
Mark Lipton