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Here, he says, holding a glass of 1985 Tondonia Gran Reserva in his outstretched arm, pointing in my general direction. I could smell the thing from 10 feet away. But of course, says I, approaching the vessel, aromas intensifying with every step. Suddenly, the Gran Reserva offering is retracted. I could still smell it though. You been to Marechal lately? Sure, says I, just last month. You should post, he says, and then I understood - he who does not post, does not drink. Especially the Gran Reserva.
Indeed, the wonderful 2007s from Claude and Catherine Marechal were tasted on a chilly and sunny Saturday morning in November, in a most festive atmosphere caused by a large and excited group of Corsican winemakers, who had come to witness the truth. What was the truth? What it always has been - a sense of natural winemaking which requires no technical explanation, for it is so obvious as you travel from cellar to cellar and arrive to this address. If you've ever tasted real fruit from a garden, you'll recognize it here.
Quick note: these tastings, just over a year after harvest, should be placed in the context of the vintage, which seems to be showing a hint of austerity, medium weight, great purity, and remarkable balance.
Bourgogne Rouge - not very expressive, a little tough going at this stage, very nice concentration, density for a bourgogne, slightly yeasty, plenty of finish though
Ladoix Chaillots - clean, pure, sl. yeasty, quite stony, nice palate penetration, this is delightful, should be a great drink
Chorey Les Beaune - pure black cherry aromas, hints of bread crust, very spherical on the palate, i.e. with a lovely outer core, more closed on the inside despite nice density, this is the sort of wine which will benefit greatly from some sweetness as it ages
Auxey-Duresses - a completely different beast in that the fruit seems more mature, raspberry tips the flavour balance, yet there is a high-toned element which pervades the palate making the wine very lively, as it gains sweetness with air; nice juice.
Savigny Les Beaune VV - much more reserved on the nose, yet deeper, most deceiving on the palate now, as there is unquestionable palate presence and plenty of length, but not much to bite at thus far, time is sweet I expect, as with the Chorey
Savigny Les Beaune La Laviere - even deeper, penetrating cherry on the aromas and certainly on the palate where the wine is bouncy, as only Marechal wines can be amidst any degree of ripeness (witness the 05s), a waterfall of pure ripe cherry through minerals, this wine dances
Volnay - discreet aromas, darkest fruit yet, not fully expressive, working hard with air to deliver sweet fruit towards the finish but finally does, defined by minerality, good promise
Pommard - the most delineated and focused of all wines, very expressive, still tells of skin and stem(?) things which geeks will love, blast of ripe cherry on palate, fabulous wine
Bourgogne Aligote - beautiful, sl. exotic fruit aromas, but plenty of citrus and very natural sweet fruit, this is ridiculously delicious; what is it with 2007 and Aligote, Lafarge's is out of control as well.
Bourgogne Chardonnay - floral, ripe, cool, balanced, most drinkable as it does not flirt with the seemingly unavoidable candied elements of CdB whites these days
Savigny Blanc - picked in October(!), but cool fresh and yeasty, a touch bigger than the bourgogne but nicely balanced
Bonus Round, 2006 Savigny Blanc - 80% botrytis, tastes like one of those great Macons :-), this is a touch alcoholic, but plenty of material to balance, one for the geeks I am sure.
Indeed, the wonderful 2007s from Claude and Catherine Marechal were tasted on a chilly and sunny Saturday morning in November, in a most festive atmosphere caused by a large and excited group of Corsican winemakers, who had come to witness the truth. What was the truth? What it always has been - a sense of natural winemaking which requires no technical explanation, for it is so obvious as you travel from cellar to cellar and arrive to this address. If you've ever tasted real fruit from a garden, you'll recognize it here.
Quick note: these tastings, just over a year after harvest, should be placed in the context of the vintage, which seems to be showing a hint of austerity, medium weight, great purity, and remarkable balance.
Bourgogne Rouge - not very expressive, a little tough going at this stage, very nice concentration, density for a bourgogne, slightly yeasty, plenty of finish though
Ladoix Chaillots - clean, pure, sl. yeasty, quite stony, nice palate penetration, this is delightful, should be a great drink
Chorey Les Beaune - pure black cherry aromas, hints of bread crust, very spherical on the palate, i.e. with a lovely outer core, more closed on the inside despite nice density, this is the sort of wine which will benefit greatly from some sweetness as it ages
Auxey-Duresses - a completely different beast in that the fruit seems more mature, raspberry tips the flavour balance, yet there is a high-toned element which pervades the palate making the wine very lively, as it gains sweetness with air; nice juice.
Savigny Les Beaune VV - much more reserved on the nose, yet deeper, most deceiving on the palate now, as there is unquestionable palate presence and plenty of length, but not much to bite at thus far, time is sweet I expect, as with the Chorey
Savigny Les Beaune La Laviere - even deeper, penetrating cherry on the aromas and certainly on the palate where the wine is bouncy, as only Marechal wines can be amidst any degree of ripeness (witness the 05s), a waterfall of pure ripe cherry through minerals, this wine dances
Volnay - discreet aromas, darkest fruit yet, not fully expressive, working hard with air to deliver sweet fruit towards the finish but finally does, defined by minerality, good promise
Pommard - the most delineated and focused of all wines, very expressive, still tells of skin and stem(?) things which geeks will love, blast of ripe cherry on palate, fabulous wine
Bourgogne Aligote - beautiful, sl. exotic fruit aromas, but plenty of citrus and very natural sweet fruit, this is ridiculously delicious; what is it with 2007 and Aligote, Lafarge's is out of control as well.
Bourgogne Chardonnay - floral, ripe, cool, balanced, most drinkable as it does not flirt with the seemingly unavoidable candied elements of CdB whites these days
Savigny Blanc - picked in October(!), but cool fresh and yeasty, a touch bigger than the bourgogne but nicely balanced
Bonus Round, 2006 Savigny Blanc - 80% botrytis, tastes like one of those great Macons :-), this is a touch alcoholic, but plenty of material to balance, one for the geeks I am sure.