provocative statement re Loire cab franc

J

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
Excerpted from a professional reviewer (on Vinous): My standard question to each producer that I visited this past summer was always to ask what distinguishes a Chinon from a Bourgueil or Saumur-Champigny. To date, I have not received a suitable reponse nor been truly able to elucidate one for myself. Instead, the three basic types of soil typically found here—and in the other appellations—are rather easy to identify: sandy gravel, clay with silex and chalky loam. They and the signature of the winemaker are the telltale signs that I look for in a blind tasting. Otherwise, distinguishing between the appellations is essentially impossible, even for the winemakers themselves. As Yannick Amirault told me, “either I recognize the style of one my colleagues or I haven't a clue.”

Can you tell the AOC apart?
 
"Can you tell the AOC apart?"

is that necessary? can one discern montlouis from vouvray (reliably)? can one discern pouilly fume from sancerre from menetou salon--often enough to win more bets than one is losing?

would this be a reason to have fewer AOC's?
 
Saumur seems to be differentiating itself from Chinon/Bourgueil these days as buyers look to other nearby wineries for their Foucault-style needs.
 
originally posted by Don Rice:
Saumur seems to be differentiating itself from Chinon/Bourgueil these days as buyers look to other nearby wineries for their Foucault-style needs.
Click to expand...

Who are they, besides Collier and Guiberteau?
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
Who are they, besides Collier and Guiberteau?
Click to expand...

You might add Thierry Germain, Villeneuve, Yvonne, and that Millon guy at Source du Ruault to your list. As Foucault heads farther and farther north of $100 you'll hear more about these other guys.

You could also add into the mix less oaky offerings by Filliatreau, Hureau and Clos Cristal. And if you want to go to the bookshelf, Rouge et Blanc #99 will add more makers to your list that I haven't tasted yet. And who knows what we'll see happening in the next few years. It's a rather exciting time in Saumur.
 
I'm kidding of course about always telling the difference, but I do agree there usually seems to be a Saumur/Chinon+Bourgueil divide. To me C+B usually seems a bit more vegetal and leafy, and somehow more "classic", while Saumur seems a bit more ripe and plush.
 
Thanks, Don (and Zachary), lots of names to explore once that $100 rube-con is crossed. I've never cared much for Germain, perhaps I should revisit.

Maybe it's just the sample, but a 08 Clos Rougeard Clos and two younger Guiberteaus opened in the last few months all seemed closer to a bordelais conception of cab franc, perhaps more ripe and plush, unlike the very different, more rustic, leathery, and herbal cab francs that I find in Chinon and Bourgueil. On the other hand, a 2002 Collier La Ripaille in November was neither, just kinda blah.
 
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