Originally posted 11/26/01.
Work has prevented me from posting notes too often and I must confess to have gotten very lazy over the past year with regard to note taking, but after a months delay, I've finally finished my notes from the NY Wine Experience held here in New York last month.
I attended both days of the Grand Tasting, having been given tickets. As my attendance didn't cost me a red cent, I felt no pressure to try all the wines being shown. Truth be told, out of around 200 wines being poured, I only had an interest in about 50-60 of them, managed to try about 50 at a leisurely pace and wrote up notes on about 40 of them.
Having attended many trade tastings and enduring the crowds they bring, I have to say I was surprised at how relatively easy it was to get to the wines I wanted to try. With the exception of the Screaming Eagle, where I think I may have maimed two women, I had no trouble at all. Of course, my tastes steered me away from many of the more popular wines that had big crowds around their tables.
Additionally, I was told by others that attended the tasting in the past that the numbers seemed much lower than last year, no doubt a result of the horrific event that hit this city in September.
In any case, I had a fun time, tried some terrific wines and was able to talk to bunch of people I hadn't seen in a while.
The wines are listed under three categories and alphabetically as they appeared in the tasting book. Some of the Bordeaux wines may seem out of place, but that's because they were all grouped under "Chateaux."
Non-Dessert White Wines
1999 Beaucastel- Roussanne, Vielles Vignes
Big and in your face. Rich and oily in texture, theres nothing subtle here. Peach, melon, white pepper and flower flavors and aromas all slathered with buttery oak. Though Im normally not too much of a fan of white Rhones, theres enough fruit here to keep the oak in harmony and the wine lacks the alcoholic buzz I usually find with these types of wine. A-.
1989 Hugel- Riesling, Vendages Tardives
Pale yellow color. Petrol dominates the nose. Starts fairly dry in the mouth and then one picks up the sweetness in the back of the palate, though it is not a particularly sweet wine. Elegant petrol, stone fruits, mineral and grapefruit flavors. Zippy acidity balances the wine perfectly. The finish is where this wine truly shines. It really explodes and goes on and on, where it picks up some honey and light smoke notes. Still shows some youth, but perfectly fine to drink now to enjoy a little more fruit than one will see in a few years. A/A-.
1997 Egon Mller- Riesling Sptlese, Scharzhoffberger , Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
Delicious peaches and minerals on the nose and palate. Quite ripe and seems almost too sweet for a Sptlese, but the wine is balanced by more acidity than I was expecting to find given the relatively lower-acid characteristic of many 97s that I had on release. Solid A-.
1999 Nigl-Riesling Privat, Trocken Kremstal, Senftenberg Piri
Big mouthfeel, bone dry with lime, mineral and grapefruit. Pretty good, but too big and dry for my tastes, which is my general complaint with Austrian wines. A-/B+.
2000 F.X. Pichler- Riesling Smaragd, Trocken, Wachau, Drnsteiner Kellerberg
Consistently my favorite Austrian producer as I find these wines, while big-bodied like most Austrian Riesling, possess more fruit than anybody else Ive tried. Ive heard that 2000 wasnt as good as previous vintages and this wine showed it by being a bit light in the middle and lacking the same rigid structure Ive seen in the past. That said, theres still nice tropical fruit in a dry style here with a nice mineral component. A-/B+.
1999 Joh. Jos. Prm- Riesling Sptlese, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
The typical young Prm sulfur stink on the nose. Nice peach, lemon/lime and mineral flavors with pretty good acidity, but like most 99s Ive had, it lacks punch and a little stuffing in the middle. Minerally finish. A solid effort, though. Low A-.
1997 Trimbach- Riesling, Cuve Frdric mile
It was good to see Paul Wagner pouring this wine and he was kind enough to introduce me to Hubert Trimbach. All minerals and yellow and green citrus. Probably my favorite FE as the fruit is a bit riper than usual. Nice fruit, excellent acidity and dry. Classic Frdric mile. Solid A-.
Red Wines
1997 Araujo- Cabernet Sauvignon, Eisele Vineyard, Napa Valley
Very perfumed nose, full of rich, red fruit. Rich and fairly decadent on the palate. Terrific sweet cherries, crushed raspberries, chocolate and integrated oak. The structure is softer than that of the unbelievable 95, though the fruit profile is quite similar. Terrific Cab. A.
1999 Argiano- Solengo, Vino Rosso
Plenty of ripe black fruit, oak and chocolate on the nose and palate, with a touch of tar. Big tannins that beg for the aid of a steak. While the fruit is enjoyable, theres a little too much oak here for my tastes. A-/B+.
1997 Cardinale- Red Wine
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from both Napa and Sonoma Valleys in the following percentages :79% Napa County, 21% Sonoma County., 91% Cabernet (72% from Napa, 19% from Sonoma) and 9% Merlot (7% Napa, 2% Sonoma.)
When one gets through the math, theres rich cherry, chocolate and cedar aromas and flavors and mouthful of ripe n chewy tannins. Nice lingering finish. A-.
1997 Ceretto- Barolo, Bricco Rocche Brunate
Wowsers! Nose of the night for sure. Not in your face, but it sure leaves an impression. Enchanting aromas of sweet cherries, meat, brown spices and mocha. On the palate, an elegant bruiser. Rich and complex with like flavors as aromas. It certainly packs a powerful tannic punch, but the fruit is so delicious and silky that one doesnt mind the pain. One of the wines of the night. Solid A.
1998 M. Chapoutier- Ermitage, Le Pavillon
Initial big time whiff of horse poop on the nose which quickly blew off to reveal aromas of black fruit, mineral and pepper. Quite seductive, glossy black raspberry/blackberry fruit and white pepper flavors with integrated oak. Teeth clinging tannins. Very chic. A/A-.
1998 Cheval Blanc- St. milion, Bordeaux
A blend of 55% Cabernet Franc and 45% Merlot. Smoky oak nose with herb and black currant. Fairly generous and rich in the mouth with black currant, herb and charred oak flavors. The oak is sticking out way to much right now, especially on the finish. Structure seems a little soft now and overall I find this pretty good, but a little lackluster. B+/A-.
1996 Ducru-Beaucaillou- St. Julien, Bordeaux
Showing very young and tight. Not much on the nose and one needs a crowbar to pry at the buried fruit that exists on the palate. Theres some graphite, mineral and tobacco notes, but this baby needs some sleep. Fwiw, I prefer the 95. A-.
1995 Haut-Brion- Pessac-Lognan, Bordeaux
Tighter on the nose than the 95 La Mission Haut-Brion tried alongside it. The nose does reveal some earth and black fruit. Absolutely stunning on the palate, though. Massive structure and opulent, sweet yet refined black fruit, rich black earth and tobacco. The wine builds and builds in the mouth. Sweet, full tannins. Gorgeous. Solid A.
1994 Lafite Rothschild- Pauillac, Bordeaux
Some nice black fruit, lead pencil and cedar here, but the tannins have that 94 hardness and austerity that detracts from the wine. A-/B+.
1995 La Mission Haut-Brion, Pessac-Lognan, Bordeaux
Beautiful nose. Lots of earth, tar and black fruit aromas and flavors. Good depth on the palate and surprisingly open at this stage. Finish is a smidgen short, but there are good materials here. A-.
1995 Latour- Pauillac, Bordeaux
Warning! Warning! Do not open now! Nothing on the nose, but loads of black fruit, earth and tobacco on the palate. Alas, theres also a mouthful of big, big cheek and gum coating tannins. Let this baby sleep and you will be rewarded. A.
1990 Loville Barton- St. Julien, Bordeaux
After letting Anthony Barton know that he was pouring a badly corked bottle, he immediately opened up and poured the best bottle of 90 that Ive tried to date. It was much more accessible and friendly then when last tasted two years ago. Loaded with black currant, mineral and herb flavors and aromas. The fruit has a richness to it that I havent experienced previously. Well balanced and though its still pretty tight, it really isnt a crime to check up on these now if youre holding them. Solid A- to A/A-.
1996 Margaux- Margaux, Bordeaux
A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot and 4% Cabernet Franc. Completely closed up nose, but boy, what a mouthfeel! The old iron fist in a velvet glove routine. Theres lots of gorgeous black and dark red fruit lurking in here, but at the moment its covered up by layers and layers of sweet, but hard as nails tannins. Will be a classic one day, but this is another 96 with a Do Not Touch sign on it. A.
1998 Mouton Rothschild- Paullic, Bordeaux
A blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. Black fruit, oak/mocha and earth aromas. Surprisingly soft structurally, with upfront black fruit, chocolatey/spicy oak and dashes of herb and licorice. Not bad, but I continue to be underwhelmed by Mouton given their status. A-/B+.
1995 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande- Pauillac, Bordeaux
Showing more tobacco, earth and herb, than fruit on the nose, but on the palate theres plenty of luscious, velvety fruit along with tobacco, cedar herb. Really delightful to drink and showing a lot of class. It is showing some signs of shutting down, though, so Im going to let the few bottles I have, sleep. A/A-.
1998 Trotanoy- Pomerol, Bordeaux
Muted on the nose. Silk sheets in the mouth. Seriously, the last wine that seduced my mouth to this degree was the 89 Rayas. Stunning, pure black fruit caresses the mouth and is supported by integrated spicy and smoky oak. Terrific balance with firm, but oh so sweet tannins. A wine to love, as it loves you back! Solid A.
1997 Poderi Aldo Conterno- Barolo, Bussia Soprana
Crushed berry, mocha, earth and leather on the nose and palate. Big tannins, but the wine is fairly forward and noticeably lower in acid than some of the other Barolos tried tonight. Good stuff. A-.
1995 Pesquera- Ribera del Duero, Gran Reserva
Red fruit and game aromas. Some nice red fruit, game, dried herb and oak flavors in a rustic package. Tannins are big and gritty and the finish is a little short. Needs time for the oak to integrate better, though theres enough fruit here to support it for the long haul. Low A-.
1996 Bruno Giacosa- Barolo, Falleto Riserva Red Label
The Red Label Riserva bottling is made only during exceptional vintages. Ripe cherry, smoke and earth aromas billowed out of the glass. Massive on the palate with formidable structure. The fruit is opulent enough to stand up to it, though. Ripe cherries, earth, tar and spice rule the day. Just a terrific wine that will reward those that own it for many years to come. Perhaps the best young Barolo Ive had. Solid A.
1997 Harlan Estate- Red, Napa Valley
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. A really classy and enjoyable nose full of black fruit and nice floral notes in violets and lavendar. A big, brooding wine on the palate. Dense, chewy tannins and sweet black fruit, but the oaking is a bit too much for me, which is a shame because there are some really nice materials buried in here. Low A-.
1997 Isole e Olena- Cepparello
Nice bouquet of raspberries, cherries, spice and earth. A full-throttle wine here. Huge in the mouth with delicious red fruit earth, spicy/cedary oak and a tinge of leather. Big time slightly gritty tannins. This is 100% Sangiovese wine is a bruiser at this stage. It needs to shed some tannins for it to show its best. Solid A- with room for improvement.
1970 Marqus de Murrieta-Castillo Ygay- Rioja, Gran Reserva Especial
Garnet color with a very perfumed and elegant nose of lightly roasted red fruit, dried herbs, nuts and a touch of coconut. Silky and complex on the palate with mature red fruit, herb and spicy oak, though the fruit is still quite vibrant. The oak is well-integrated and I was told the wine is aged in 100 year old barrels. Nice acid levels, neither too much, nor too little with good tannin support. Excellent wine and a treat to try. A/A-.
1997 Orneillaia
Another one of those elegant brutes of a wine. Theres richly feminine red fruit here, with a dash of dried earth and spicy wood, but theres a thick wall of muscular tannins surrounding it. Needs time. This is a recording. A/A-.
1998 Alvaro Palacios Finca Dofi- Priorat
Slight alcohol heat on the nose with ripe black fruit and spice. Ultra-ripe n juicy black fruit, spice and tobacco on the palate. This is one of those wines thats truly mouth-filling. The fruit does have, dare I say, a hedonistic quality to it. Big, chewy tannins. Delicious. A/A-.
1996 Sandrone- Barolo Le Vigne
Starts off with a rather unusual mouthfeel but then develops a slow burn of coiled intensity. By the finish this wine becomes monumental. The cherry/plum fruit really builds in the palate and theres plenty of spice along for the ride. Excellent balance. Another stunning 96 Barolo. Solid A.
1997 Screaming Eagle- Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
Surprisingly elegant nose of sweet black fruit, chocolate, spice and cedary oak. Initially soft and silky on the palate with ultra-rich rich fruit, mocha and a good dose of oak. However, as the wine neared the back of the palate, a most unusual thing happened. The wine just seemed to grow and grow and take on a milk shake texture and flavor. It was truly a bizarre experience. Once that happened, the oak stuck out more, especially on the finish. This is one of those freak show kinds of wines. Certainly over done, but there are some interesting and tasty components to the wine. It goes without saying that the prices it fetches are ludicrous, even the current mailing list price. A-.
1987 Vega Sicilia- Ribera del Duero, nico
Ripe cherry, herb and oak aromas. Sensational on the palate. Rich, powerful with impeccable balance and length. Rich red cherries with a slightly roasted quality to them, a hint of meat, herbs and integrated oak. Firmly tannic with much life ahead of it. This wine has a wonderful, brooding intensity about it. Solid A.
1998 Vieux Chteau Certan- Pomerol, Bordeaux
Opulent nose of sweet black currants, plums, chocolate and violets. Gorgeous and effusive in the mouth. Lots of sweet black fruit, mineral, chocolate and flowers. Well-balanced, though the oak at this stage is sticking out a bit. Wish I had some in the cellar. A/A-.
1998 Vieux Tlgraphe- Chteauneuf-du-Pape
Quite tight on the nose and palate. Shows some of that burnt rubber I often get from young Grenache, along with deep, lightly roasted black fruit, black spices and a touch of meet. Tannins are too much to make the wine too enjoyable at the moment. Good stuff here, but it desperately needs to be left alone for a while. Solid A-.
Dessert Wines
1999 Domaine des Baumard- Quarts de Chaume
Fairly light on the nose, but there are some nice pear, stone and honey aromas. More viscous on the palate than the 98 and showing more ripeness, though less acidity. While the wine is a tad fat, the pear, pineapple, honey and mineral flavors are enjoyable and generous and there is enough acidity present to prevent the wine from being cloying. A-.
1975 Climens- Sauternes-Barsac
Light gold color. Unfortunately, served a bit too cold, which greatly diminished the nose. On the palate, however, another story. Showing much younger on the palate than when tasted in the past year. Gorgeous tropical fruit with rich butterscotch support. Has the acidity that I normally find lacking in Sauternes. Solid A.
1993 Domaine Disznk- Tokaji, Asz Eszencia
Sweet, seductive nose of grilled apricots, nuts and honey. Ultra sweet and viscous and brimming with apricots, honey, white raisins and nuts. Enough acidity here to keep things from being cloying. Absolutely delicious. Solid A.
1997 Ferreira- Port
Pretty tight on the nose. Sweet, but not too sweet on the palate with rich black fruit, spice and faint licorice flavors. Nice depth and big, chewy tannins. Still drinking fairly well young, though its got good longevity ahead of it. Another winner from 97. Low A-.
1964 Massandra- White Muscat, Livadia
Amber color with orange marmalade, nuts and toffee aromas. Rich and thick on the palate. Definitely wins the award for most viscous wine of the night. Intensely sweet with delicious apricot, orange marmalade, white raisin and caramelized brown sugar. Could use a little buttressing in the acidity department, but who cares? This stuff tastes too good to worry about that. A.
1996 Quinta do Noval- Port, Nacional
Somewhat light aromas of berry fruit, violets, spice and a whiff of alcohol. Nice black fruit, allspice/clove and violet flavors with a touch of tobacco and licorice at the back of the palate. Showing a little spirity as well as a good dose of youthful tannins. Not a blockbuster, but quite nice in a lighter style. A-.
1995 Royal Tokaji Wine Company- Tokaji, Asz 6 Puttyonos, Nyulsz
Bright nose of apricots, white raisins and nuts. Very sweet with like flavors. Could use a little bit more of an acidic punch, but the wine certainly isnt cloying. Would be great with an apricot tart. A-.
Work has prevented me from posting notes too often and I must confess to have gotten very lazy over the past year with regard to note taking, but after a months delay, I've finally finished my notes from the NY Wine Experience held here in New York last month.
I attended both days of the Grand Tasting, having been given tickets. As my attendance didn't cost me a red cent, I felt no pressure to try all the wines being shown. Truth be told, out of around 200 wines being poured, I only had an interest in about 50-60 of them, managed to try about 50 at a leisurely pace and wrote up notes on about 40 of them.
Having attended many trade tastings and enduring the crowds they bring, I have to say I was surprised at how relatively easy it was to get to the wines I wanted to try. With the exception of the Screaming Eagle, where I think I may have maimed two women, I had no trouble at all. Of course, my tastes steered me away from many of the more popular wines that had big crowds around their tables.
Additionally, I was told by others that attended the tasting in the past that the numbers seemed much lower than last year, no doubt a result of the horrific event that hit this city in September.
In any case, I had a fun time, tried some terrific wines and was able to talk to bunch of people I hadn't seen in a while.
The wines are listed under three categories and alphabetically as they appeared in the tasting book. Some of the Bordeaux wines may seem out of place, but that's because they were all grouped under "Chateaux."
Non-Dessert White Wines
1999 Beaucastel- Roussanne, Vielles Vignes
Big and in your face. Rich and oily in texture, theres nothing subtle here. Peach, melon, white pepper and flower flavors and aromas all slathered with buttery oak. Though Im normally not too much of a fan of white Rhones, theres enough fruit here to keep the oak in harmony and the wine lacks the alcoholic buzz I usually find with these types of wine. A-.
1989 Hugel- Riesling, Vendages Tardives
Pale yellow color. Petrol dominates the nose. Starts fairly dry in the mouth and then one picks up the sweetness in the back of the palate, though it is not a particularly sweet wine. Elegant petrol, stone fruits, mineral and grapefruit flavors. Zippy acidity balances the wine perfectly. The finish is where this wine truly shines. It really explodes and goes on and on, where it picks up some honey and light smoke notes. Still shows some youth, but perfectly fine to drink now to enjoy a little more fruit than one will see in a few years. A/A-.
1997 Egon Mller- Riesling Sptlese, Scharzhoffberger , Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
Delicious peaches and minerals on the nose and palate. Quite ripe and seems almost too sweet for a Sptlese, but the wine is balanced by more acidity than I was expecting to find given the relatively lower-acid characteristic of many 97s that I had on release. Solid A-.
1999 Nigl-Riesling Privat, Trocken Kremstal, Senftenberg Piri
Big mouthfeel, bone dry with lime, mineral and grapefruit. Pretty good, but too big and dry for my tastes, which is my general complaint with Austrian wines. A-/B+.
2000 F.X. Pichler- Riesling Smaragd, Trocken, Wachau, Drnsteiner Kellerberg
Consistently my favorite Austrian producer as I find these wines, while big-bodied like most Austrian Riesling, possess more fruit than anybody else Ive tried. Ive heard that 2000 wasnt as good as previous vintages and this wine showed it by being a bit light in the middle and lacking the same rigid structure Ive seen in the past. That said, theres still nice tropical fruit in a dry style here with a nice mineral component. A-/B+.
1999 Joh. Jos. Prm- Riesling Sptlese, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
The typical young Prm sulfur stink on the nose. Nice peach, lemon/lime and mineral flavors with pretty good acidity, but like most 99s Ive had, it lacks punch and a little stuffing in the middle. Minerally finish. A solid effort, though. Low A-.
1997 Trimbach- Riesling, Cuve Frdric mile
It was good to see Paul Wagner pouring this wine and he was kind enough to introduce me to Hubert Trimbach. All minerals and yellow and green citrus. Probably my favorite FE as the fruit is a bit riper than usual. Nice fruit, excellent acidity and dry. Classic Frdric mile. Solid A-.
Red Wines
1997 Araujo- Cabernet Sauvignon, Eisele Vineyard, Napa Valley
Very perfumed nose, full of rich, red fruit. Rich and fairly decadent on the palate. Terrific sweet cherries, crushed raspberries, chocolate and integrated oak. The structure is softer than that of the unbelievable 95, though the fruit profile is quite similar. Terrific Cab. A.
1999 Argiano- Solengo, Vino Rosso
Plenty of ripe black fruit, oak and chocolate on the nose and palate, with a touch of tar. Big tannins that beg for the aid of a steak. While the fruit is enjoyable, theres a little too much oak here for my tastes. A-/B+.
1997 Cardinale- Red Wine
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from both Napa and Sonoma Valleys in the following percentages :79% Napa County, 21% Sonoma County., 91% Cabernet (72% from Napa, 19% from Sonoma) and 9% Merlot (7% Napa, 2% Sonoma.)
When one gets through the math, theres rich cherry, chocolate and cedar aromas and flavors and mouthful of ripe n chewy tannins. Nice lingering finish. A-.
1997 Ceretto- Barolo, Bricco Rocche Brunate
Wowsers! Nose of the night for sure. Not in your face, but it sure leaves an impression. Enchanting aromas of sweet cherries, meat, brown spices and mocha. On the palate, an elegant bruiser. Rich and complex with like flavors as aromas. It certainly packs a powerful tannic punch, but the fruit is so delicious and silky that one doesnt mind the pain. One of the wines of the night. Solid A.
1998 M. Chapoutier- Ermitage, Le Pavillon
Initial big time whiff of horse poop on the nose which quickly blew off to reveal aromas of black fruit, mineral and pepper. Quite seductive, glossy black raspberry/blackberry fruit and white pepper flavors with integrated oak. Teeth clinging tannins. Very chic. A/A-.
1998 Cheval Blanc- St. milion, Bordeaux
A blend of 55% Cabernet Franc and 45% Merlot. Smoky oak nose with herb and black currant. Fairly generous and rich in the mouth with black currant, herb and charred oak flavors. The oak is sticking out way to much right now, especially on the finish. Structure seems a little soft now and overall I find this pretty good, but a little lackluster. B+/A-.
1996 Ducru-Beaucaillou- St. Julien, Bordeaux
Showing very young and tight. Not much on the nose and one needs a crowbar to pry at the buried fruit that exists on the palate. Theres some graphite, mineral and tobacco notes, but this baby needs some sleep. Fwiw, I prefer the 95. A-.
1995 Haut-Brion- Pessac-Lognan, Bordeaux
Tighter on the nose than the 95 La Mission Haut-Brion tried alongside it. The nose does reveal some earth and black fruit. Absolutely stunning on the palate, though. Massive structure and opulent, sweet yet refined black fruit, rich black earth and tobacco. The wine builds and builds in the mouth. Sweet, full tannins. Gorgeous. Solid A.
1994 Lafite Rothschild- Pauillac, Bordeaux
Some nice black fruit, lead pencil and cedar here, but the tannins have that 94 hardness and austerity that detracts from the wine. A-/B+.
1995 La Mission Haut-Brion, Pessac-Lognan, Bordeaux
Beautiful nose. Lots of earth, tar and black fruit aromas and flavors. Good depth on the palate and surprisingly open at this stage. Finish is a smidgen short, but there are good materials here. A-.
1995 Latour- Pauillac, Bordeaux
Warning! Warning! Do not open now! Nothing on the nose, but loads of black fruit, earth and tobacco on the palate. Alas, theres also a mouthful of big, big cheek and gum coating tannins. Let this baby sleep and you will be rewarded. A.
1990 Loville Barton- St. Julien, Bordeaux
After letting Anthony Barton know that he was pouring a badly corked bottle, he immediately opened up and poured the best bottle of 90 that Ive tried to date. It was much more accessible and friendly then when last tasted two years ago. Loaded with black currant, mineral and herb flavors and aromas. The fruit has a richness to it that I havent experienced previously. Well balanced and though its still pretty tight, it really isnt a crime to check up on these now if youre holding them. Solid A- to A/A-.
1996 Margaux- Margaux, Bordeaux
A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot and 4% Cabernet Franc. Completely closed up nose, but boy, what a mouthfeel! The old iron fist in a velvet glove routine. Theres lots of gorgeous black and dark red fruit lurking in here, but at the moment its covered up by layers and layers of sweet, but hard as nails tannins. Will be a classic one day, but this is another 96 with a Do Not Touch sign on it. A.
1998 Mouton Rothschild- Paullic, Bordeaux
A blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. Black fruit, oak/mocha and earth aromas. Surprisingly soft structurally, with upfront black fruit, chocolatey/spicy oak and dashes of herb and licorice. Not bad, but I continue to be underwhelmed by Mouton given their status. A-/B+.
1995 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande- Pauillac, Bordeaux
Showing more tobacco, earth and herb, than fruit on the nose, but on the palate theres plenty of luscious, velvety fruit along with tobacco, cedar herb. Really delightful to drink and showing a lot of class. It is showing some signs of shutting down, though, so Im going to let the few bottles I have, sleep. A/A-.
1998 Trotanoy- Pomerol, Bordeaux
Muted on the nose. Silk sheets in the mouth. Seriously, the last wine that seduced my mouth to this degree was the 89 Rayas. Stunning, pure black fruit caresses the mouth and is supported by integrated spicy and smoky oak. Terrific balance with firm, but oh so sweet tannins. A wine to love, as it loves you back! Solid A.
1997 Poderi Aldo Conterno- Barolo, Bussia Soprana
Crushed berry, mocha, earth and leather on the nose and palate. Big tannins, but the wine is fairly forward and noticeably lower in acid than some of the other Barolos tried tonight. Good stuff. A-.
1995 Pesquera- Ribera del Duero, Gran Reserva
Red fruit and game aromas. Some nice red fruit, game, dried herb and oak flavors in a rustic package. Tannins are big and gritty and the finish is a little short. Needs time for the oak to integrate better, though theres enough fruit here to support it for the long haul. Low A-.
1996 Bruno Giacosa- Barolo, Falleto Riserva Red Label
The Red Label Riserva bottling is made only during exceptional vintages. Ripe cherry, smoke and earth aromas billowed out of the glass. Massive on the palate with formidable structure. The fruit is opulent enough to stand up to it, though. Ripe cherries, earth, tar and spice rule the day. Just a terrific wine that will reward those that own it for many years to come. Perhaps the best young Barolo Ive had. Solid A.
1997 Harlan Estate- Red, Napa Valley
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. A really classy and enjoyable nose full of black fruit and nice floral notes in violets and lavendar. A big, brooding wine on the palate. Dense, chewy tannins and sweet black fruit, but the oaking is a bit too much for me, which is a shame because there are some really nice materials buried in here. Low A-.
1997 Isole e Olena- Cepparello
Nice bouquet of raspberries, cherries, spice and earth. A full-throttle wine here. Huge in the mouth with delicious red fruit earth, spicy/cedary oak and a tinge of leather. Big time slightly gritty tannins. This is 100% Sangiovese wine is a bruiser at this stage. It needs to shed some tannins for it to show its best. Solid A- with room for improvement.
1970 Marqus de Murrieta-Castillo Ygay- Rioja, Gran Reserva Especial
Garnet color with a very perfumed and elegant nose of lightly roasted red fruit, dried herbs, nuts and a touch of coconut. Silky and complex on the palate with mature red fruit, herb and spicy oak, though the fruit is still quite vibrant. The oak is well-integrated and I was told the wine is aged in 100 year old barrels. Nice acid levels, neither too much, nor too little with good tannin support. Excellent wine and a treat to try. A/A-.
1997 Orneillaia
Another one of those elegant brutes of a wine. Theres richly feminine red fruit here, with a dash of dried earth and spicy wood, but theres a thick wall of muscular tannins surrounding it. Needs time. This is a recording. A/A-.
1998 Alvaro Palacios Finca Dofi- Priorat
Slight alcohol heat on the nose with ripe black fruit and spice. Ultra-ripe n juicy black fruit, spice and tobacco on the palate. This is one of those wines thats truly mouth-filling. The fruit does have, dare I say, a hedonistic quality to it. Big, chewy tannins. Delicious. A/A-.
1996 Sandrone- Barolo Le Vigne
Starts off with a rather unusual mouthfeel but then develops a slow burn of coiled intensity. By the finish this wine becomes monumental. The cherry/plum fruit really builds in the palate and theres plenty of spice along for the ride. Excellent balance. Another stunning 96 Barolo. Solid A.
1997 Screaming Eagle- Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
Surprisingly elegant nose of sweet black fruit, chocolate, spice and cedary oak. Initially soft and silky on the palate with ultra-rich rich fruit, mocha and a good dose of oak. However, as the wine neared the back of the palate, a most unusual thing happened. The wine just seemed to grow and grow and take on a milk shake texture and flavor. It was truly a bizarre experience. Once that happened, the oak stuck out more, especially on the finish. This is one of those freak show kinds of wines. Certainly over done, but there are some interesting and tasty components to the wine. It goes without saying that the prices it fetches are ludicrous, even the current mailing list price. A-.
1987 Vega Sicilia- Ribera del Duero, nico
Ripe cherry, herb and oak aromas. Sensational on the palate. Rich, powerful with impeccable balance and length. Rich red cherries with a slightly roasted quality to them, a hint of meat, herbs and integrated oak. Firmly tannic with much life ahead of it. This wine has a wonderful, brooding intensity about it. Solid A.
1998 Vieux Chteau Certan- Pomerol, Bordeaux
Opulent nose of sweet black currants, plums, chocolate and violets. Gorgeous and effusive in the mouth. Lots of sweet black fruit, mineral, chocolate and flowers. Well-balanced, though the oak at this stage is sticking out a bit. Wish I had some in the cellar. A/A-.
1998 Vieux Tlgraphe- Chteauneuf-du-Pape
Quite tight on the nose and palate. Shows some of that burnt rubber I often get from young Grenache, along with deep, lightly roasted black fruit, black spices and a touch of meet. Tannins are too much to make the wine too enjoyable at the moment. Good stuff here, but it desperately needs to be left alone for a while. Solid A-.
Dessert Wines
1999 Domaine des Baumard- Quarts de Chaume
Fairly light on the nose, but there are some nice pear, stone and honey aromas. More viscous on the palate than the 98 and showing more ripeness, though less acidity. While the wine is a tad fat, the pear, pineapple, honey and mineral flavors are enjoyable and generous and there is enough acidity present to prevent the wine from being cloying. A-.
1975 Climens- Sauternes-Barsac
Light gold color. Unfortunately, served a bit too cold, which greatly diminished the nose. On the palate, however, another story. Showing much younger on the palate than when tasted in the past year. Gorgeous tropical fruit with rich butterscotch support. Has the acidity that I normally find lacking in Sauternes. Solid A.
1993 Domaine Disznk- Tokaji, Asz Eszencia
Sweet, seductive nose of grilled apricots, nuts and honey. Ultra sweet and viscous and brimming with apricots, honey, white raisins and nuts. Enough acidity here to keep things from being cloying. Absolutely delicious. Solid A.
1997 Ferreira- Port
Pretty tight on the nose. Sweet, but not too sweet on the palate with rich black fruit, spice and faint licorice flavors. Nice depth and big, chewy tannins. Still drinking fairly well young, though its got good longevity ahead of it. Another winner from 97. Low A-.
1964 Massandra- White Muscat, Livadia
Amber color with orange marmalade, nuts and toffee aromas. Rich and thick on the palate. Definitely wins the award for most viscous wine of the night. Intensely sweet with delicious apricot, orange marmalade, white raisin and caramelized brown sugar. Could use a little buttressing in the acidity department, but who cares? This stuff tastes too good to worry about that. A.
1996 Quinta do Noval- Port, Nacional
Somewhat light aromas of berry fruit, violets, spice and a whiff of alcohol. Nice black fruit, allspice/clove and violet flavors with a touch of tobacco and licorice at the back of the palate. Showing a little spirity as well as a good dose of youthful tannins. Not a blockbuster, but quite nice in a lighter style. A-.
1995 Royal Tokaji Wine Company- Tokaji, Asz 6 Puttyonos, Nyulsz
Bright nose of apricots, white raisins and nuts. Very sweet with like flavors. Could use a little bit more of an acidic punch, but the wine certainly isnt cloying. Would be great with an apricot tart. A-.