TN: Brad and the Tourists (Oct 24, 2015)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Brad, Jay, Cliff, Jeff, Lou + Bettylu, Manuel + Josie

Brad is so kind to tourists: He let Jay off the hook for the non-appearance of a promised tiramisu and even let him sleep in the far corner of the couch.

Meanwhile, Cliff has stunned several of us with his home-baked bread. He says he has become addicted to one of the 'no-knead' recipes and has worked it through till it is producing a crackly-chewy crust, a moderate size and amount of holes inside, and with a texture not too elastic and not too cake-like. (Hell's bells, I'm a cook, not a baker, so I'm all impressed.)

Victuals were kept simple. Brad roasted some chicken thighs and made a shrimp risotto. I brought the pork and milk products: rosemary ham, prosciutto di parma, pork pate with pistchios, salame toscana, Leonora (goat/Spain), Grayson (wash-rind/US), Comte (from the fortress), and Fourme d'Ambert (from a milder wheel).

Did we drink, too? I think I recall...

Pepiere 2009 Muscadet "Chateau Thebaud" - magnum; so rich and full and yet it's still Muscadet... how does Marc do this?; fwiw, the acidity is a touch lower than I'd like which is the vintage signature I suppose

Cazin 1996 Cour-Cheverny "Cuvee Renaissance" - Vendanges Camblor, or something like that; it never gets old... wow acidity, grapefruity, clean, just-so ripeness, perhaps more viscous than I recall it

F. Cotat 2005 Chavignol Rose - pungent, curried, savory, but it really isn't clear that this is a pleasurable drink

Laurel Glen 1992 Cabernet Sauvignon - bursting with life, vivid blackcurrant and tobacco flavors, like a young wine, no doubt whether this is a pleasurable drink!

Edmund St John 2005 Syrah "Wylie-Fenaughty" - iron fist in the velvet glove, rather red-fruity, suave, charming

Mastroberardino 1999 Taurasi Riserva "Radici" - dark cherry, hint of oregano, very fine tannins, well-behaved but a tad tame, let's see what happens in a couple days

Algueira 2012 Ribeira Sacra "Brancellao" - Nesquick, gak; this does not resemble other TNs on the net at all so maybe we have a bad bottle here

Algueira 2013 Ribeira Sacra "Merenzao" - that's trousseau to you; kinda slow in its shoes compared to the Jura version, tasty anyway

Barral 2010 Faugeres "Jadis" - kinda lost on the table this is pretty robust and tannic, the website says this is carignan-syrah-grenache, maybe there is a whiff of Ch9 here but no one is paying much attention to this bottle (incl. yours truly)

Huet 1989 Vouvray Moelleux 1ere Trie "Le Haut Lieu" - beautiful balance of sweet and savory, apricot and pale peach, so much material, makes you think you're young again

Climens 1988 Sauternes - clearly woody, though not insultingly so, sweet and clean, but plays second fiddle when there's good chenin acidity around to compare it against

Hirtzberger 2001 Spitzer Riesling "Singerreidel" Smaragd - The Polish Goodbye: we toss our napkins down, push our glasses aside, stand up, reach for coats, and then realize that we did not open a bottle that Lou had special sent ahead... of course, it's been in the cooler all night so now it's too cold... as it warms up, it starts to show wax and honey and then both Brad and Manuel call caramel on the finish (heat damage)

It's no wonder my head hurt the next morning... almost nothing to dump.
 
Group photo, by Brad.
2015-10-24_Brad_and_the_Tourists.jpg
 
What have I told you people about Sauternes and Chenin (or riesling)? Drink the Sauternes first or the chenin's acidity will make the former seem flabby.

Many great wines but I think the ESJ WF was my WOTN. SE really BIOOTP with this one. A good time to be opening them, I think I still have a bottle buried somewhere...
 
A fun evening. I always look forward to the Kessler's October visit. Plenty of good wines and many thanks to Jeff for being the note taker and for going above and beyond with bringing goodies to eat.

A shame no one really paid any attention to the Barral. I thought it showed very well. That, along with the Cazin, Laurel Glen and Huet were my favorites, though the Pepiere, ESJ, Mastroberardino and Climens were all excellent.
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by scottreiner:

love barral, so much life and vigor.

All sorts of different life forms in there.

I love the wines but I find the finish in the reds, especially the base wine, to be distracting. What is that? Bloody hazelnuts? Drives me up the wall every time I drink one.
 
originally posted by Todd Abrams:
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by scottreiner:

love barral, so much life and vigor.

All sorts of different life forms in there.

I love the wines but I find the finish in the reds, especially the base wine, to be distracting. What is that? Bloody hazelnuts? Drives me up the wall every time I drink one.

Yeah, it bothers me, too. I find it like spoiled meat, or rotting onions. Certainly stronger in some vintages than others, but I only find it in the basic Faugeres.
 
Thanks so much, all. I liked the Barral. It wasn't as compelling as the CA wines, but it was quite good. I did not detect any rotting carcass.

ETA - for those keeping track, the 3 qt Dutch Oven appears to be the secret for the proportions in the original Lahey version.
 
originally posted by Cliff:
ETA - for those keeping track, the 3 qt Dutch Oven appears to be the secret for the proportions in the original Lahey version.
Good to know.

ETA: It dawns on me now to ask... Should I now view the kettle as part of the terroir of the bread?
 
The 1996 and 2002 are classics, the 2014 was quite nice a few years ago, and yesterday the first from a six-pack of 2015 Cazin Cour-Cheverny "Cuvee Renaissance" -- served chilled on a near-sweltering Lisbon evening -- was fabulous and worthy of its ancestors (with thanks to Brad for empowering this consumption through some comment on Facebook between nobody's-wearing-a-mask rants). To me it registered as demi-sec, to Marcia as moelleux (as the label, of course, states), but the famous romorantine acidity kept it on an even keel through different kinds of food -- different kinds of cheese, cured ham, pork rillette -- making such distinctions appear academic.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
O, there's not shortage of threads. No need to go digging around.

Unless there's a pressing reason to isolate, I prefer to piggy back on threads where a wine has already been mentioned.

ps: it would have made more sense to me if you had said that there is a shortage of threads, so better to start new ones.
 
I may even put the '15 above the '08 and '02. Those, plus the '96, are easily my favorite vintages of Cuvee Renaissance of the past 25 years.
 
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