Saina Nieminen
Saina Nieminen
In Isère, between the Rhône and Switzerland, Nicolas Gonin is resurrecting forgotten grape varieties. Of the lesser known varieties he's growing at least mècle, persan, verdesse, bia blanc and servanin - though most of these aren't available as wines yet. But I did get to drink three of his wines recently - one of which was a "forgotten" grape - and they were all really wonderful.
Gonin Blanc 2013 - 50% chardonnay, 25% viognier, 20% altesse, 5% pinot gris; 12% abv
It is like good quality green tea: a bit fishy in a good way with plenty of freshness and acidic bite. Herbaceous but also surprisingly rich for a relatively low abv wine. I enjoyed it.
Gonin Mondeuse 2012
11% abv, tight, tannic, acidic, light. Who cares about fruit when you have mean, mineral leanness instead? Brilliant.
Gonin Persan 2012
IIRC only three others grow the Persan grape commercially. And that is a shame since this bottle at least is really lovely. Relatively heavy at 13% abv with even some sweet fruit aromas for those of you who like such things - I like this kind of tangy, savoury fruit, too, but after the lean Mondeuse it did seem like this was the S. Rhone to the Mondeuse having been the N. Rhone in a Texiery style.
He does make a varietal altesse, too, but I was unable to find that. Super wines and priced at only c.10/bottle these are really worth trying.
Gonin Blanc 2013 - 50% chardonnay, 25% viognier, 20% altesse, 5% pinot gris; 12% abv
It is like good quality green tea: a bit fishy in a good way with plenty of freshness and acidic bite. Herbaceous but also surprisingly rich for a relatively low abv wine. I enjoyed it.
Gonin Mondeuse 2012
11% abv, tight, tannic, acidic, light. Who cares about fruit when you have mean, mineral leanness instead? Brilliant.
Gonin Persan 2012
IIRC only three others grow the Persan grape commercially. And that is a shame since this bottle at least is really lovely. Relatively heavy at 13% abv with even some sweet fruit aromas for those of you who like such things - I like this kind of tangy, savoury fruit, too, but after the lean Mondeuse it did seem like this was the S. Rhone to the Mondeuse having been the N. Rhone in a Texiery style.
He does make a varietal altesse, too, but I was unable to find that. Super wines and priced at only c.10/bottle these are really worth trying.