A Emoción dos Viños

O

Oswaldo Costa

Oswaldo Costa
Emocion.jpg.jpg
After little more than a week in Portugal we attended our first natural wine shindig, the sixth edition of an event held annually in the small town of Valença (not to be confused with Valencia in Spain), right on the northern Portuguese border with Spanish Galicia. People here go back and forth between speaking Portuguese and Spanish, and the time zone changes an hour if you step a few yards north, instead of east. The atmosphere was heady, sporting unvarnished, backstage pass, uncombed, anti-deodorant glamour. Not a burgher in sight, or anyone who would give a wine a score.

From Galicia alone there were more than forty producers (see public service photo), of which I only knew Do Ferreiro, stocked by CSW. Lots to explore here, since Galicia’s climate favors wines with good natural acidity.

Also present were many producers from Portugal and other parts of Spain. Among the Portuguese, we tasted with Mário Sérgio Nuno, from Quinta de Bágeiras, whom we visited many years ago. Three very good bubblies and several delicious whites. The reds need ten years to show as they should, when they become excellent. Three vintages of reds from Humus, a budding Portuguese natural producer, were disappointing.

We also liked the whites from Casa de Mouraz (producer imported by Savio Soares and available at CSW), where we felt good rapport with the ultra-nice António Lopes Ribeiro. Besides his main staple of Dão wines, he also makes two white and one red vinho verdes, all excellent, especially one of the whites, which is 100% Loureiro.

Among the Spanish, we tasted several from Barranco Oscuro, but unfortunately they no longer had any of their sold out Varetùo Tempranillo, which I like a lot. Through the generosity of João Rosé, of Coad chronicle fame, who introduced us most generously, we were well treated by the spirited Alfredo Maestro (imported by José Pastor), who made us taste his entire range, mostly from Ribera del Duero, but also two rarities from Madrid. Thanks to my aversion to wood, even judicious, not only for the flavor but for the smoothing effect, it was a mixed experience, since several cuvées use wood non-egregiously. But we took home one of the wood-free Garnachas, to taste in the sanctity.

Zô, at home, the following evening:

2015 Do Ferreiro Alvariño Rias Baixas 12.5%
Floral and citric, quite grapefruity. Good balance, with attractive acidity, confirming the citrus, and good acid/sweet balance, but the body is a little on the thin side, almost dilute. Would not buy again.

2015 Alfredo Maestro El Marciano Garnacha 15.0%
100% Garnacha from 70 year-old vines planted at the unusually high altitude of 1,150 meters (hence the name). Fermented without stems, using native yeasts. No SO2 added and aged in stainless. Attractive and fruity red spectrum aroma. Excellent balance and body, fine tannins. With time, shows its wild side, almost savage, but most raucously agreeable, leading to excessive consumption. Served chill, I would never have suspected 15%, though Marcia says she sensed it, a bit. Yes siree, I dug a 15% Grenache, what's this world coming to.

Next Friday we have our second event, in Lisbon, graced by comrade Texier. Looking forward.
 
Mark, too early to call a 1.5% breach in my perimeter! Jeff, the gracias is always greener. Jonathan, I had oubliated; it must have been expertly selected.
 
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