Christmas dinner wines

VLM

VLM
With caviar and some raw Island Creek oysters
2012 Ulysse Collin Champagne Les Pierrières
Since Ledru basically doesn't exist anymore I've been checking out the Collin wines again. I always liked them (Olivier Collin is also charming), but I don't drink much Champagne in this price range. This seemed to be at a lower atmosphere than most and very vinous and dry. On the lemon side of things and very mineral and the mouthfeel is one of density. I quite liked this.

With a sort of oysters and pearls thing since Island Creek now sells the caviar that Keller uses for this dish (he uses their oysters).
2014 Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Les Chevalières
A big fan of Fichet and the wines in 2014 are strict, linear and bracing. They almost have a mothwatering quality to them. Then the lemony stone fruit kicks in followed by more bracing on the finish. It's actually a little gentler to drink and with real fruit than I'm making it sound, but it is an etched wine.

With prime rib roast, reverse sear is where it is at!
1996 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Rocche dei Brovia
Out of a magnum that I stood up for more than 2 weeks and decanted about 5 hours before service. The fruit is on the darker side of the scale for this wine. I remember it being lighter than this, but maybe age has darkened the fruit. Still tannic, although the last glass has softened a bit (or maybe I had). There were some more earthy characteristics that I associate with older Barolo, but nothing particularly balsamic. The fat from the roast helped a great deal and made the wine seem sweeter than it was on its own, as one would expect. Very good, but less thrilling than I had hoped. I think that I either needed a longer decant and probably need to wait a few more years to open my next one.

1995 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays
My last bottle of this and holy shit was it good. Gossamer (RIP CC) sous bois bottle sweetness with dried red and black fruits. Tannins are only there as shape and the acidity lifts the wine along the palate. There is no 1995 roughness here as I've had with other recent 1995s. It was all lovely spice, leaves, dried fruit grace and caressing. I don't have the words to properly express how much I enjoyed this but it did remind me why we cellar wines.

With Jasper Hill Harbison and other cheeses
2011 Domaine de la Bongran Viré-Clessé
Delicious and perfect with the cheese. I love the funky ripe botrytis inflected flavors and rich palate of this wine. Enough structure so that it never goes flabby and enough grace the the fruit never goes pineapple, but borders on tropical.
 
2014 Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Les Chevalières
A big fan of Fichet and the wines in 2014 are strict, linear and bracing

I am a big fan of JP Fichet, too. There's a Chablis-esque tension of grapefruit and stoniness in his best Meursault releases that I very much like. Your note is exactly what I would expect from Fichet in a vintage like 2014. Last year I loaded up on 2014 white Burgundies, both for early drinking (Bourgogne Blanc, St.Romain, St.Aubin) and for medium/long term cellaring (1er and GC).

1996 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Rocche dei Brovia
The fruit is on the darker side of the scale for this wine. I remember it being lighter than this, but maybe age has darkened the fruit. [...] but nothing particularly balsamic. [...] Very good, but less thrilling than I had hoped.

Interesting note. Yes the Rocche di Castiglione vineyard should in theory yield a feminine, early-drinking Barolo on the brighter side of Nebbiolo's aromatic palette, with balsamic notes of nettle / green tea leaf. It sounds like your 1996 Rocche dei Brovia is still in a 'transition phase' or it is just showing those acid/tannic imbalances inherent to many 1996 Barolo, that will never completely resolve through cellar aging.
Btw how was the acidity? Did you detect any green / vegetal element in the tannins?
 
originally posted by VLM:

2014 Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Les Chevalières
A big fan of Fichet and the wines in 2014 are strict, linear and bracing. They almost have a mothwatering quality to them. Then the lemony stone fruit kicks in followed by more bracing on the finish. It's actually a little gentler to drink and with real fruit than I'm making it sound, but it is an etched wine.

Had this same wine from the 2006 vintage not too long ago. It was in a perfect place, substantial in every way without any fat.

I drank it all though and didn't leave any to water the moths.
 
originally posted by Todd Abrams:
originally posted by VLM:

2014 Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Les Chevalières
A big fan of Fichet and the wines in 2014 are strict, linear and bracing. They almost have a mothwatering quality to them. Then the lemony stone fruit kicks in followed by more bracing on the finish. It's actually a little gentler to drink and with real fruit than I'm making it sound, but it is an etched wine.

Had this same wine from the 2006 vintage not too long ago. It was in a perfect place, substantial in every way without any fat.

I drank it all though and didn't leave any to water the moths.

Hahaha. Fair enough. Damn moths.
 
originally posted by Luca Mazzoleni:
2014 Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Les Chevalières
A big fan of Fichet and the wines in 2014 are strict, linear and bracing

I am a big fan of JP Fichet, too. There's a Chablis-esque tension of grapefruit and stoniness in his best Meursault releases that I very much like. Your note is exactly what I would expect from Fichet in a vintage like 2014. Last year I loaded up on 2014 white Burgundies, both for early drinking (Bourgogne Blanc, St.Romain, St.Aubin) and for medium/long term cellaring (1er and GC).

Went through a couple of cases of the 2014 Bouggone Blanc VV at the house and I have maybe one bottle left. Found it a great value.

1996 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Rocche dei Brovia
The fruit is on the darker side of the scale for this wine. I remember it being lighter than this, but maybe age has darkened the fruit. [...] but nothing particularly balsamic. [...] Very good, but less thrilling than I had hoped.

Interesting note. Yes the Rocche di Castiglione vineyard should in theory yield a feminine, early-drinking Barolo on the brighter side of Nebbiolo's aromatic palette, with balsamic notes of nettle / green tea leaf. It sounds like your 1996 Rocche dei Brovia is still in a 'transition phase' or it is just showing those acid/tannic imbalances inherent to many 1996 Barolo, that will never completely resolve through cellar aging.
Btw how was the acidity? Did you detect any green / vegetal element in the tannins?

I have to think that it is still in a transition phase. I probably didn't make it sound as good as it was and I think the beautiful showing of the Lambrays against it maybe skewed my reaction in addition to my lofty expectations. I think part of that is unreasonable since this is still a young wine, I think.

I thought the acidity was in balance and there were no green or vegetal nuances that I picked up. I have some 750mls of this as well and may check that format to see if the wine is further along. I want to find it in a spot where I can still enjoy the fruit but the tannins have softened a bit more.

I have fond memories of our visit to Brovia together. I think we were tasting the 1998 vintage out of cask or was it 1997?
 
I probably didn't make it sound as good as it was and I think the beautiful showing of the Lambrays against it maybe skewed my reaction

When a middle-aged Barolo with an unresolved acid/tannic structure meet a mature red Burgundy with a fully resolved tannin and a ripe, tender fruit...the Barolo is a dead wine walking, to paraphrase a famous Western quote. No doubt.
Had you opened a 1995 or 1999 Brovia Rocche di Castiglione the organoleptic (and hedonistic) distance from the 1995 Clos de Lambrays would have been much shorter, I am sure.

this is still a young wine, I think.

Yes by Barolo Cru standards the 96 Rocche is still a young wine. But OTOH the 1996 vintage in Langa remains a little bit of a question mark and a head-scratcher. The Nebbiolo harvest was late and not all growers picked grapes at perfect phenolic ripeness. 1996 was no 1999, so to speak.

I thought the acidity was in balance and there were no green or vegetal nuances that I picked up.

This bodes well for the future evolution of this wine. I am sorry I can't contribute any recent note on the 96 Rocche dei Brovia, as a counterpoint.

I have fond memories of our visit to Brovia together. I think we were tasting the 1998 vintage out of cask or was it 1997?

The 1998 vintage, it was. Boy time flies...
 
originally posted by John McIlwain:
Fichet is the truth. The 2015s were surprisingly fresh and lifted given the vintage.

The range of 15 whites in that particular neck of the woods that I encountered in barrel was all over the place in terms of freshness and ripeness. Fichet is fresh, so is Dupont-Fahn.
 
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