So, by the glow of khachapuri-shaped neon, I tried both the Rkatsiteli-Chardonnay blend (dry, crisp, clean, but weird anyway) and the Saperavi Qvevri (dry, hearty to the point of roughness, but likable anyway and good with the food).
I also had a sip each of the white Mtsvane (a touch of RS, boring) and the Kindzmarauli (ghastly sweet).
The waiter said Georgian wine nomenclature is different from European. If a Georgian says "dry" that means "bone dry" and if they say "semi-sweet" that means "a little dry".
We ate a lot of cheese, of course. That was all pretty yummy, even the one that wasn't so easy to handle: you get a small bowl of beef soup and a large bowl of the goopiest, cheesiest grits you've ever known....
Anyway, we'll definitely be coming back here.