TN: Half a Century of the Latin Liquidator (April 13, 2018)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
It is a miracle of social engineering. Not the Liquidator, although there are perhaps issues requiring a structural engineer there....

No, I mean to pull off a surprise birthday party in this day and age. Josie reserved a private room at Landmarc, summoned nearly 30 people, and no one blabbed about it ahead of time on Facebook, Whatsapp, Snapchat, Skype, LinkedIn, Instagram, Kik, Pinterest, Flickr, Tumblr, VK, Reddit, Youtube, Meetup, Twitter, Hangouts, Viber, ooVoo, or Wine-Searcher.

Bravo!

We all arrive around 7:30p at the restaurant (in no particular order):
Brad, Michel (in from Western climes), Don + Melissa, Jayson + Laura, Lisa (having just dashed back), Suzanne + Kenny, Jay, Jeff G, Jeff C (dapper and gentlemanly, as always), Victor + Mrs. Victor (Elaine?), Cliff, .sasha + Delia, Asher, Josefa + Mark (enjoying an evening not schnooking), Cesar (long time!), Denyse, John G + Marie-France (he's still getting over the flu)

Of course, we're far too undisciplined to hide behind chairs and under tables. We immediately start pulling corks, griping about the stemware, and hub-bubbing. The wait-staff gets buckets and water and ice onto all the tables, passes hot hors d'oeuvres and pours:
Pinon 2014 Vouvray Petillant - its usual cheerful self, though a couple bottles seem kinda flat
Occhipinti SP68 Red - I never had any but I tasted it at the recent Dressner event
Occhipinti SP68 White - ditto

We get a two-minute warning when The Eagle enters the building, and cheer him when he enters the room. We got 'im.

Josie had arranged a short and simple menu: choice of two appetizers (soup, salad) and choice of two mains (swordfish, risotto). Easy on the kitchen, easy on the staff, and easy on us. So we can focus on the Birthday Boy and a wee dram beside:

Christian Moreau 2013 Chablis 1er "Vaillon" - 375ml, fruity, punchy, good zing, shared by a few of us while waiting for the room to open

Luneau-Papin 2002 Muscadet "Le L d'Or" - like it always does: this cuvee loses acidity but the palate ages at a glacial pace, beautiful balance in this beautiful year for Muscadet, perhaps showing a little bit of honey?

Dom. de la Pepiere 2004 Muscadet "Clos des Briords" - mag, yellow-fruit and a whiff of funky-cheesey going on, more-ish

Brundlmayr 1997 Gruner Veltliner "Alte Reben" - much susurrus around the table about whether there is a vineyard designation on here somewhere (no one could find one) and sighed reminiscences of SFJoe (a tireless advocate for wines of Austria); vivid and intense, green grapes and a basket of herbal scents, delightful

Edmund St-John 1994 Syrah "Durrell Vineyard" - library bottle; gorgeous, perfect, hint of soy sauce in the nose and that saline quality carries into the mouth, red and blue fruits both, even the people dismissive of CA wines are impressed

Clos Roche Blanche 1998 Touraine "Cot" - sturdy yet, cool, deep, some schoolpastey brett bothers the more-sensitive palates, great wine

Pinon 2005 Vouvray "Cuvee Tradition" - at first, the haze of sugar and glycerin dazzled me but .sasha convinces me that it is sherried, sigh

Rollin 2014 Pernand-Vergelesses Blanc "Les Cloux" - classic white burg, never my favorite style but this is attractive, demanding, powerful stuff

Vouette et Sorbet 2014 Champagne Extra-Brut "Fidele" - "Thank God, champagne!" someone said, juicy, tangy, all yellow fruit and a tease of oxidative smellies

Fourrier 2010 Morey-St-Denis "Clos Solon" - pretty wine if slight, seems to be ready

Clos Roche Blanche 2006 Touraine "Cot" - mag!, dark and lovely and incredibly youthful, I don't imagine anyone other than .sasha has more of this but, if you do, drink and hold

Ch. Cantemerle 1966 Haut-Medoc - this is perfect: all those classic Bordeaux descriptors (e.g., currants, tobacco, freshly-turned earth) are all in balance and woven together such that none sticks out, middling body is also a tactile pleasure

Dom. de Chevalier 1981 Graves - very red-fruited following the Cantemerle, maybe a little muted?

Dom. Baudry 2015 Chinon "Clos Guillot" - yup

Ygay 1983 Rioja Gran Reserva Especial - mag, very tannic and dry and drying and maybe dried-out, good but hard to like

Ch. Magdelaine 1995 St-Emilion 1er Grand Cru Classee - no note other than it was about as expected

Ch. Magdelaine 1985 St-Emilion 1er Grand Cru Classee - no note other than it was about as expected

R. Lopez de Heredia 1968 Rioja Gran Reserva "Bosconia" - oxidized, prompts a lot of discussion about how bottles of '68 Bosconia seems to run about 50-50 great or shot

Cappellano 1968 Barolo - a powerful perfume can be smelled a foot away from the glass, glorious red fruit and roses and country air, the palate could not (and does not) keep pace but so what, great wine

Trimbach 1995 Riesling "Cuvée Frederic Emile" - surprising but definite nose of celery, then bright and tangy white grapes (but no more ripe than that), good acid spine still

Trimbach 1992 Riesling "Cuvée Frederic Emile" - similar to the '95 but a little more fleshy, a little more three-dimensional, beautiful

Pinon 1996 Vouvray "1er Trie" - I'm enjoying this, damn the notes

Dauvissat 2007 Chablis 1er "Vaillon" - another Vaillon!, this one is also pretty but already the oxidative clouds are forming over it, drink now (I've held some '05 Forest till now but I'm not quite mad enough to keep them any longer)

Dom. des Petits Quarts 1996 Bonnezeaux "Le Malabe" - not black label, one of Dressner's cheapie imports back in the day, a Brad Kane wine: nicely sweet and vivid but too low acid for me (especially this far into a blowout dinner)

...and that's all I captured. There probably were more wines but me and my liver can't be everywhere.

I've dragged two photos over from FaceBook, one from Brad that shows the party in full swing:


And one from Manuel with Jayson and Cliff that nicely captures the spirit of the thing (i.e., drunken grins, within macho bounds):
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

Luneau-Papin 2002 Muscadet "Le L d'Or" - like it always does: this cuvee loses acidity but the palate ages at a glacial pace, beautiful balance in this beautiful year for Muscadet, perhaps showing a little bit of honey?

Dom. de la Pepiere 2004 Muscadet "Clos des Briords" - mag, yellow-fruit and a whiff of funky-cheesey going on, more-ish

Those two prodigious wines were my introduction to Muscadet, though my stash has since been consumed. Good to hear that they're both doing so well.

Mark Lipton
 
As it so happens I was celebrating my daughter's birthday at Verre De Terre the same night with the the same wine (among many others), 2004 Clos des Briords, in magnum no less, and it was all that Jeff describes, just stunning.

Happy Birthday Manuel!
 
Thanks for being the note taker, Jeff! A wonderful evening filled with most of the original NY group! We even managed to pull off the surprise! Manuel was expecting to walk into a dinner with six other friends, not thirty!

The white wines stole the show for me. Both Muscadet were terrific, as was the '95 Trimbach FE, which I preferred over the '92. The '97 Brundlmayer Gruner was tremendous, so too was the '96 Pinon Premier Trie. We disagree on our old friend the '96 Domaine de Petits Quarts which showed beautifully. It's reached maturity, but shows much fresher than the Rene Renou Bonnezeaux we had a couple of years ago with our '95-'97 Loire fete. Viva Sulphur! Is it going to have the same acidity as '96 Huet? No, but there was still more than ample acidity to balance the wine.

You missed my favorite red of the evening, the '01 Trevallon, which is in and has been in a wonderful spot for the past few years now. I also really liked the Edmunds St. John and the '81 DDC, though by the time I tried the '66 Cantemerle, it was pretty much old red wine. I also liked the '83 Murrieta Ygay more than you, though it does need more time to integrate the coconutty oak.
 
originally posted by Brad Kane:
originally posted by Florida Jim:
“ . . . coconutty oak.”
Ewwwww.
Best, Jim

So, you don't like traditional Rioja?

While there certainly are Rioja wines that have that signature, there are quite a few that don’t.
I like the ones that don’t.
I have no idea what traditional Rioja means.
Best, Jim
 
1998 CRB Cot was WOTN, though the 2006 will probably pass it with time.

Lots of wonderful wines. I brought the Brundlmayer as an homage to sfJoe who opened the 1995 of this wine for me back in 2004 at Inside for my birthday dinner which was also our last offline there before I moved to Jersey City. It was my first gruner with some age and I was amazed at what gruner could do with some age.
 
originally posted by Brad Kane:
We disagree on our old friend the '96 Domaine de Petits Quarts which showed beautifully. It's reached maturity, but shows much fresher than the Rene Renou Bonnezeaux we had a couple of years ago with our '95-'97 Loire fete. Viva Sulphur! Is it going to have the same acidity as '96 Huet? No, but there was still more than ample acidity to balance the wine.
I'm not belittling it. It is very nice, just not with the oomph I need from Wine #20-something.

You missed my favorite red of the evening, the '01 Trevallon, which is in and has been in a wonderful spot for the past few years now.
Alas.

I also really liked the Edmunds St. John and the '81 DDC, though by the time I tried the '66 Cantemerle, it was pretty much old red wine. I also liked the '83 Murrieta Ygay more than you, though it does need more time to integrate the coconutty oak.
I was called over to the Cantemerle by somebody right after it was opened; it was da bomb then.

I can imagine the Ygay pulling itself together. It just struck me as a bit raspy and austere that night.
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:
1998 CRB Cot was WOTN, though the 2006 will probably pass it with time.

Any thoughts on or recent experiences with the 2009? I have a whole stash of them hiding somewhere at my sister's house in Germany. Plus I think some 2007s.
 
originally posted by georg lauer:
originally posted by Jay Miller:
1998 CRB Cot was WOTN, though the 2006 will probably pass it with time.

Any thoughts on or recent experiences with the 2009? I have a whole stash of them hiding somewhere at my sister's house in Germany. Plus I think some 2007s.

Haven't had one in about 2 years but it was glorious up until then.
 
originally posted by georg lauer:

Any thoughts on or recent experiences with the 2009? I have a whole stash of them hiding somewhere at my sister's house in Germany.

Address please. We won't disturb anyone.

The 09s are magical.
 
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