Florida Jim
Florida Jim
Wine Impressions - 12-9-18
Bubbles:
N/V Pierre Paillard, Champagne Rose Les Terres Roses - a wow wine from the get-go and worthy of its Grand Cru designation. We should all have a glass of this every night to get us tuned into what the evening may hold. Life affirming.
Piper-Heidsieck, Rare (my apologies, I didn’t get the vintage) - quite crisp, chalky, fresh and acidic; showing young but with a future.
Whites:
2014 Kabaj, Rebula - Slovenian Ribolla Gialla that is very pretty; well integrated, pure flavors and a lovely texture. A little more acid wouldn’t hurt but I’d drink it “as is” anytime.
2017 Solminer, Gruner Veltliner - skin-fermented but still has high toned fruit and a lightweight delivery. I’d like to try this in five years.
2017 Prima Materia, Sangiovese Blanco - actually a Vin Gris with bright, cheerful flavors, grip and considerable length. An unexpected treat.
2012 Cowan Cellars, Isa - 100% skin-fermented Sauvignon Blanc that spent two years in old French barrels and four years in bottle. Much like an amaro without the alcohol (this is 13%). Opens nicely with air but will never be everyone’s fav. Still, at a table full of winemakers, it received compliments and second pours.
2012 Sauzet, Puligny-Montrachet - stony, smoky, pure fruit goodness with cut and finesse. A pleasure.
2014 Sandlands, Chenin Blanc Amador County - pleasant, maybe a little blousy but easy to drink and clean.
2014 Ladd Cellars, Chardonnay Sonoma Coast - reminds me of Corton Charlemagne but too young to say it for sure; great acidity, a whiff of French oak, and everything needed to become much more. A glimpse at what may become a great wine.
Reds:
2013 Idlewild, Nebbiolo - pure, typical, balanced, precise; not especially complex but so pure that I could drink this at least once a week. And who knows what wonders time will work? Yum.
2013 Pierce, Touriga - from Monterey County; showing typical of the grape but maybe a little thin. Nonetheless, good structure and mouthfeel.
2015 Piquentum, Refosk - Croatian Refosco that showed an earthy purity which reminded me some of Chinon. Crisp and even refreshing in the mouth. Nice.
2013 Guglielmo, Charbono - from Santa Clara Valley. A touch volatile but clearly Charbono and pretty good balance. Did not knock me over but I had a second glass.
2017 Harrington, Cabernet Franc Cedar Crest Vineyard - again a touch of volatility but the fruit is singing, no green and the textures were grand. I liked it.
2014 Landmark, Pinot Noir Overlook Vnyd. - nothing to write home about but not bad.
2012 Saxum, Broken Stones - big assed wine, really big. There is some nuance here but it’s hard to find a lot more than really, really ripe fruit. In my experience, Saxum wines are better ten years out. 15.6% abv on the label.
1991 Dominus - the real deal. Tobacco, pencil lead, fresh but light Cabernet fruit, complex, balanced and altogether thrilling. Top shelf and showing it.
2007 Cowan Cellars, Syrah Bennett Valley - the first wine I ever made and showing good fruit with complexity and savory notes. Has shed its baby fat and gained complexity.
2012 Marcassin, Pinot Noir Marcassin Vnyd. - typical nose of Sonoma Coast Pinot, light weight, balanced and clean. But nothing here is special; a simple $25 Pinot.
2011 Castelli, Nebbiolo Luna Mata Vnyd. - I don’t get the typicity of Nebbiolo here; there’s nothing wrong with the wine but it could be any red from anywhere.
2007 Vale de Pios, Douro - mushy but pleasant; no real character.
1991 Stag’s Leap, Cabernet Sauvignon Cask 23 - quite minty when first opened and a little quiet - after an hour one of the most impressive cab based wines I’ve tasted in twenty years - great complexity on the nose and palate, weightless in the mouth with perfect balance, beautiful cab fruit, savory accents on every part of the delivery and a distinctly feminine but long finish. Deserves your undivided attention and a fine meal. A definite, oh my!
1978 Campo Gros, Barbaresco Martinega - an old wine, mostly alive but clearly decaying - interesting but not fascinating.
1980 Joseph Swan, Pinot Noir Sonoma - angry about being awakened but after an hour or so, it blossoms into sous bois, deep fruit, earth tones and intensity. A treat.
1996 Tenuta Friggiali, Brunello - great breeding and in need of a three star Italian meal. A little lost with pizza but a hell of a wine in the right circumstance.
1996 Voillot, Pommard Les Rugiens - nicely resolved and not as firm as expected; coming into its own and, while not a soaring experience, a fine bottle on a cool night.
Horizontal tasting of Vosne-Romanee, Beaux Monts:
1999 Dominique Laurent - some mushroom tones with solid fruit but speaks more of the house than the vineyard
2002 Dominique Laurent - Odd and unpleasant nose with mushroom, acquarium and dirt; not much better in the mouth
1997 Dominique Laurent - heat damaged; DNPIM
1999 Domaine Bertagna - spritzy and thin, tolerable but just
2009 Domaine Dujac - solid wine but again, this says Dujac much more than Beaux Monts
1993 Daniel Rion - corked just enough to clip the finish and present a slight whiff
1993 Bruno Clavelier - finally, a wine that shows of Beaux Monts and is soundly made. Nothing mind bending here, but decent fruit, well made with some finesse and a good finish.
Overall, this horizontal was disappointing and I was surprised at how few of the wines were representative of the terroir.
After dinner:
1976 Monterey Vineyard, Botrytis Sauvignon Blanc (375ml) - Mahogany color and lived about 20 minutes; went from good to bad quickly.
2001 Chateau Fargues, Sauternes (375ml) - shows young but full of stuffing and energy with good acidity and balance. As age takes some of the sweetness away, this should be worthy of the vintage.
Best, Jim
Bubbles:
N/V Pierre Paillard, Champagne Rose Les Terres Roses - a wow wine from the get-go and worthy of its Grand Cru designation. We should all have a glass of this every night to get us tuned into what the evening may hold. Life affirming.
Piper-Heidsieck, Rare (my apologies, I didn’t get the vintage) - quite crisp, chalky, fresh and acidic; showing young but with a future.
Whites:
2014 Kabaj, Rebula - Slovenian Ribolla Gialla that is very pretty; well integrated, pure flavors and a lovely texture. A little more acid wouldn’t hurt but I’d drink it “as is” anytime.
2017 Solminer, Gruner Veltliner - skin-fermented but still has high toned fruit and a lightweight delivery. I’d like to try this in five years.
2017 Prima Materia, Sangiovese Blanco - actually a Vin Gris with bright, cheerful flavors, grip and considerable length. An unexpected treat.
2012 Cowan Cellars, Isa - 100% skin-fermented Sauvignon Blanc that spent two years in old French barrels and four years in bottle. Much like an amaro without the alcohol (this is 13%). Opens nicely with air but will never be everyone’s fav. Still, at a table full of winemakers, it received compliments and second pours.
2012 Sauzet, Puligny-Montrachet - stony, smoky, pure fruit goodness with cut and finesse. A pleasure.
2014 Sandlands, Chenin Blanc Amador County - pleasant, maybe a little blousy but easy to drink and clean.
2014 Ladd Cellars, Chardonnay Sonoma Coast - reminds me of Corton Charlemagne but too young to say it for sure; great acidity, a whiff of French oak, and everything needed to become much more. A glimpse at what may become a great wine.
Reds:
2013 Idlewild, Nebbiolo - pure, typical, balanced, precise; not especially complex but so pure that I could drink this at least once a week. And who knows what wonders time will work? Yum.
2013 Pierce, Touriga - from Monterey County; showing typical of the grape but maybe a little thin. Nonetheless, good structure and mouthfeel.
2015 Piquentum, Refosk - Croatian Refosco that showed an earthy purity which reminded me some of Chinon. Crisp and even refreshing in the mouth. Nice.
2013 Guglielmo, Charbono - from Santa Clara Valley. A touch volatile but clearly Charbono and pretty good balance. Did not knock me over but I had a second glass.
2017 Harrington, Cabernet Franc Cedar Crest Vineyard - again a touch of volatility but the fruit is singing, no green and the textures were grand. I liked it.
2014 Landmark, Pinot Noir Overlook Vnyd. - nothing to write home about but not bad.
2012 Saxum, Broken Stones - big assed wine, really big. There is some nuance here but it’s hard to find a lot more than really, really ripe fruit. In my experience, Saxum wines are better ten years out. 15.6% abv on the label.
1991 Dominus - the real deal. Tobacco, pencil lead, fresh but light Cabernet fruit, complex, balanced and altogether thrilling. Top shelf and showing it.
2007 Cowan Cellars, Syrah Bennett Valley - the first wine I ever made and showing good fruit with complexity and savory notes. Has shed its baby fat and gained complexity.
2012 Marcassin, Pinot Noir Marcassin Vnyd. - typical nose of Sonoma Coast Pinot, light weight, balanced and clean. But nothing here is special; a simple $25 Pinot.
2011 Castelli, Nebbiolo Luna Mata Vnyd. - I don’t get the typicity of Nebbiolo here; there’s nothing wrong with the wine but it could be any red from anywhere.
2007 Vale de Pios, Douro - mushy but pleasant; no real character.
1991 Stag’s Leap, Cabernet Sauvignon Cask 23 - quite minty when first opened and a little quiet - after an hour one of the most impressive cab based wines I’ve tasted in twenty years - great complexity on the nose and palate, weightless in the mouth with perfect balance, beautiful cab fruit, savory accents on every part of the delivery and a distinctly feminine but long finish. Deserves your undivided attention and a fine meal. A definite, oh my!
1978 Campo Gros, Barbaresco Martinega - an old wine, mostly alive but clearly decaying - interesting but not fascinating.
1980 Joseph Swan, Pinot Noir Sonoma - angry about being awakened but after an hour or so, it blossoms into sous bois, deep fruit, earth tones and intensity. A treat.
1996 Tenuta Friggiali, Brunello - great breeding and in need of a three star Italian meal. A little lost with pizza but a hell of a wine in the right circumstance.
1996 Voillot, Pommard Les Rugiens - nicely resolved and not as firm as expected; coming into its own and, while not a soaring experience, a fine bottle on a cool night.
Horizontal tasting of Vosne-Romanee, Beaux Monts:
1999 Dominique Laurent - some mushroom tones with solid fruit but speaks more of the house than the vineyard
2002 Dominique Laurent - Odd and unpleasant nose with mushroom, acquarium and dirt; not much better in the mouth
1997 Dominique Laurent - heat damaged; DNPIM
1999 Domaine Bertagna - spritzy and thin, tolerable but just
2009 Domaine Dujac - solid wine but again, this says Dujac much more than Beaux Monts
1993 Daniel Rion - corked just enough to clip the finish and present a slight whiff
1993 Bruno Clavelier - finally, a wine that shows of Beaux Monts and is soundly made. Nothing mind bending here, but decent fruit, well made with some finesse and a good finish.
Overall, this horizontal was disappointing and I was surprised at how few of the wines were representative of the terroir.
After dinner:
1976 Monterey Vineyard, Botrytis Sauvignon Blanc (375ml) - Mahogany color and lived about 20 minutes; went from good to bad quickly.
2001 Chateau Fargues, Sauternes (375ml) - shows young but full of stuffing and energy with good acidity and balance. As age takes some of the sweetness away, this should be worthy of the vintage.
Best, Jim