Ian Fitzsimmons
Ian Fitzsimmons
2009 Vissoux Beaujolais Moulin-a-Vent Trois Roches, 9/20/19
From magnum, fresh and delicious, bright with sweet-tasting cherry fruit. Acid is a touch heavy, but doesn't detract materially from the overall goodness of the wine. Judging from experience, I'd guess that this bottle has been though the youthful stage of plush fruit flavor, and the kind of garbagey-decayed-tasting stage that follows. I'd expect the wine to shut down somewhat soon, aromatically, and finally to re-emerge in a lighter, even lacey, form some five or six years down the road. This was the pattern, most recently, of my 2005 Tete cuvée Prestige magnums (see my recent note).
looking at my June note on a 750 bottle, I'd estimate now that the 750s are precisely in this dumb phase and will be delightful in another year or three. Fingers crossed.
2009 Vissoux Beaujolais Moulin-a-Vent Trois Roches, 6/22/19
From 750, an okay bottle, lacking the plump Moulin fruit that characterized it up until a year or two ago. Now, I'd guess, either transitioning through an awkward phase or tired, unsure which.
Moulin is by reputation the champion Beaujolais ager, but my personal experiments are putting Fleurie and Cote de Brouilly ahead. I guess I'd better get busy with more research.
2005 Michel Tête Juliénas Domaine du Clos du Fief "Cuvee Prestige," 8/16/19
From magnum; I decant my magnums in to 375s and drink them bottle by bottle over a week or so. Out of the bottle, the impression was rough and thinner than expected, and I feared I'd held onto it too long. The second half bottle was perfectly good over dinner with a friend, nothing to lyricize about. I drank the third bottle alone last night with a good book, and it was exceptional. Very Burgundian in its lightness and elegance, though not remotely pinot-like - much it's own thing. Very well balanced tertiary fruit flavors - spicy cherry, say - and robust Beaujolais acidity. A thin shell of drying tannins gives a pleasing textural contrast with the smooth, transparent sensation of the liquid.
I'll try the last half bottle in another day or two. But the good news is that wine of this quality is available - with a bit of patience and risk tolerance - at very reasonable pricing. Bravo.
2010 Jean Foillard Morgon Côte du Py, 5/1/19
A characteristically fine Foillard Py: pure, texturally substantive, with a slightly rich, lush feel at the back of the palate; touch of Kirsch on the tongue and in the nose; very cherry. Super balance, acidity to match most any food. Excellent with a steak sandwich on home-made sourdough. Wish I could find my 2009s.
2005 Louis Claude Desvignes Morgon Javernières "Upper Tier"
First from my stash, I think. From memory, so no details, but this wine is in a very fine place now. Tiny bit of carbon spritz on opening, fades rapidly. Fine, mature Morgon, smooth-textured, well-integrated flavors and aromas, very suave. An excellent bottle.
From magnum, fresh and delicious, bright with sweet-tasting cherry fruit. Acid is a touch heavy, but doesn't detract materially from the overall goodness of the wine. Judging from experience, I'd guess that this bottle has been though the youthful stage of plush fruit flavor, and the kind of garbagey-decayed-tasting stage that follows. I'd expect the wine to shut down somewhat soon, aromatically, and finally to re-emerge in a lighter, even lacey, form some five or six years down the road. This was the pattern, most recently, of my 2005 Tete cuvée Prestige magnums (see my recent note).
looking at my June note on a 750 bottle, I'd estimate now that the 750s are precisely in this dumb phase and will be delightful in another year or three. Fingers crossed.
2009 Vissoux Beaujolais Moulin-a-Vent Trois Roches, 6/22/19
From 750, an okay bottle, lacking the plump Moulin fruit that characterized it up until a year or two ago. Now, I'd guess, either transitioning through an awkward phase or tired, unsure which.
Moulin is by reputation the champion Beaujolais ager, but my personal experiments are putting Fleurie and Cote de Brouilly ahead. I guess I'd better get busy with more research.
2005 Michel Tête Juliénas Domaine du Clos du Fief "Cuvee Prestige," 8/16/19
From magnum; I decant my magnums in to 375s and drink them bottle by bottle over a week or so. Out of the bottle, the impression was rough and thinner than expected, and I feared I'd held onto it too long. The second half bottle was perfectly good over dinner with a friend, nothing to lyricize about. I drank the third bottle alone last night with a good book, and it was exceptional. Very Burgundian in its lightness and elegance, though not remotely pinot-like - much it's own thing. Very well balanced tertiary fruit flavors - spicy cherry, say - and robust Beaujolais acidity. A thin shell of drying tannins gives a pleasing textural contrast with the smooth, transparent sensation of the liquid.
I'll try the last half bottle in another day or two. But the good news is that wine of this quality is available - with a bit of patience and risk tolerance - at very reasonable pricing. Bravo.
2010 Jean Foillard Morgon Côte du Py, 5/1/19
A characteristically fine Foillard Py: pure, texturally substantive, with a slightly rich, lush feel at the back of the palate; touch of Kirsch on the tongue and in the nose; very cherry. Super balance, acidity to match most any food. Excellent with a steak sandwich on home-made sourdough. Wish I could find my 2009s.
2005 Louis Claude Desvignes Morgon Javernières "Upper Tier"
First from my stash, I think. From memory, so no details, but this wine is in a very fine place now. Tiny bit of carbon spritz on opening, fades rapidly. Fine, mature Morgon, smooth-textured, well-integrated flavors and aromas, very suave. An excellent bottle.