A nice Cornas

S

Sharon Bowman

Sharon Bowman
I hear things. Like, Cornas is supposed to be drunk old. Well, I was still curious and I opened, yesterday, with some Tours-native suspects, a bottle of

2005 Vincent Paris Cornas Granit 30 - granite being the, y'know, substrate or whatever, and 30 being the degree of the slope (he does a Granit 60, higher-end). This was left, after purchase, overnight in a car at 30-something temperatures (in keeping, perhaps, with its name) and was still slightly chilly when served, but I think that did it better good. And how good it was! Such freshness, a sour-cherry acidity, good complexity. So who cares if people were cupping their hands around their glasses. It helped usher along some perhaps too-well-roasted duck breasts with a savory rub.

I will look out for this producer again.
 
I have a hard time believing a 60 degree slope, although I have seen such claims in the past. Based on my days of field geology in the Alaska Range, I seem to recall that 60 degrees is basically a cliff. Maybe they harvest with climbing ropes??
 
Kermit Lynch says Cornas can be enjoyed when they're still young, then need age to mature. This seems like a bad time to drink a 2005 Cornas. But it's drinkable at this age?
 
I've heard that the 30 and 60 are related to the average vintage of the vines.I still have a sixpack of the 2005 '60, my impression is that it is currently closing down after having been very delicious (had one in September and have tasted it on 2-3 occasions before that since 2007).
 
I've enjoyed Cornas at a variety of ages, but I usually think of 10-15 as being a good spot for my favorites.
 
Steve, this was drinking beautifully.

Odd, I was only going on the caviste's good word. But given what Carl says, that could make more sense. But I don't really think of 60 years as "old vines" (though god knows, some winemakers try to pawn off 35 years as VV).

SFJoe, data point noted. Though I'll have to pass it through the grid of old chenin, etc.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
I've enjoyed Cornas at a variety of ages, but I usually think of 10-15 as being a good spot for my favorites.
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I think it depends on the wine and the vintage. I believe 88/89/91 Clape are still improving and they are in their 20s, or nearly so. OTOH, wines from Colombo, Robert Michel, etc may be better much younger (or not at all). But I'd guess those would not qualify as your favorites anyway.

More specifically, the wines from Paris have no track record so it's hard to prognosticate. I do find that some Cornas does "shut down"/go to sleep/evolve strangely, but I wouldn't call any of the 2005s there yet. I've had some 2001s and 1999s that I was not happy to open, though.
 
originally posted by Sharon Bowman:
Steve, this was drinking beautifully.

Odd, I was only going on the caviste's good word. But given what Carl says, that could make more sense. But I don't really think of 60 years as "old vines" (though god knows, some winemakers try to pawn off 35 years as VV).
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Didn't you say last year you didn't like syrah? I would think that any vine older than myself would definately quality as an 'old vine'. What do you consider as vieilles vignes then?
 
The Cornas I bought from Clape and Verset in the late 80s really didn't start to come around until after age 10 and are drinking at their height now. When all the names started to change in the 90s and you had to know more than Clape, Verset and Juge, I lost track. Have they really become a softer wine?

I've liked some from Tunnel I've had recently, but I suspect these are more modern.
 
originally posted by MarkS:
Didn't you say last year you didn't like syrah? I would think that any vine older than myself would definately quality as an 'old vine'. What do you consider as vieilles vignes then?
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La donna mobile...

I tend to think of vieilles vignes as 75 or 80+?
 
My belief is that Paris destems, and his style is more polished and modern. Not to dis the wines, I like them. Claude can tell us whether this sees new oak.

Anyhow, his wines are approachable younger and shut down less than those from old timers like Clape or Verset.

But I wouldn't be doctrinaire about timing. I think 88/89/91 Clapes are all drinking just fine now. If you happened to let some linger in the cellar you wouldn't regret it, but I am not sad about bottles of these consumed a few years ago, either.
 
Had both the 1990 Clape Cornas and 1990 Verset Cornas relatively recently. The 1990 Clape Cornas is drinking well now, but might be argued to still be on its upward trajectory. Very dense wine, just dripping with beef blood (I could not help thinking of that scene in Rome where the cow is sacrificed and the blood pours down on the lady, grossing out my daughter to no end). The 1990 Verset Cornas was mature, with very distinct aromas of lemon thyme which I seem to pick up some times in the older Syrah.
 
I'm with Joe. Cornas is 10-15.

It's time to start in on your 1995s if you want, although there is no rush.

1988/1991 ready to go. I'd drink 1988s sooner rather than later. Not much experience with 1989. I'd be drinking 1990s now if I had any left.

Sharon, FWIW, I think that for syrah, much like cabernet, old is good, but you don't get much benefit from really old. Having the right clone (or really petite serine massale) is more important.
 
originally posted by mlawton:
originally posted by SFJoe:
I've enjoyed Cornas at a variety of ages, but I usually think of 10-15 as being a good spot for my favorites.
Click to expand...

I think it depends on the wine and the vintage. I believe 88/89/91 Clape are still improving and they are in their 20s, or nearly so. OTOH, wines from Colombo, Robert Michel, etc may be better much younger (or not at all). But I'd guess those would not qualify as your favorites anyway.

More specifically, the wines from Paris have no track record so it's hard to prognosticate. I do find that some Cornas does "shut down"/go to sleep/evolve strangely, but I wouldn't call any of the 2005s there yet. I've had some 2001s and 1999s that I was not happy to open, though.
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Like 1999 Verset is perfectly pleasant but 1999 Allemand is totally unyielding. [shrug]
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
My belief is that Paris destems, and his style is more polished and modern. Not to dis the wines, I like them. Claude can tell us whether this sees new oak.
Click to expand...

To my tastes, not weighing in on the old- or newness of his style, there isn't oak (no new) there a'tall.

originally posted by VLM:
Sharon, FWIW, I think that for syrah, much like cabernet, old is good, but you don't get much benefit from really old. Having the right clone (or really petite serine massale) is more important.
Click to expand...

OK, I can see what you're saying; but how to determine (aside from the sheer cost) who is doing the "right" clones?
 
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