TN: Green Garden (Feb 6, 2020)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Tse Wei, Mike, Jay, Jeff

Ah, sitting at a four-top, out-numbered by the bottles, it feels almost like Soul Flavors again. But here, instead of fried chicken or beef short ribs, you want to order roast pork and Dungeness crab (...well, and King Crab, if you have enough people and money is no object).

Strangely, conversation is largely about work. Tse is having "a bad day at a good job" while Mike's current task has some overlap with my regular assignments. Jay has recently returned from Bangkok so we get some travel stories, too.

Back to the roast pork... it has an incredibly thick and crispy skin, not exactly like on a suckling pig but close. It is tender, of course, and there is the perfume of black pepper (and coriander?). The crab was alive just a few minutes ago so freshness is one thing it offers in spades. It is a big enough creature that the endless picking through cartilege provides some rewards.

Speaking of rewards:

Benoit Lahaye 2012 Champagne Brut Zero "Cuvee Violaine" - disg. 2017, half chard/half pinot, slightly funky on entry but the pinot depth of flavor is compelling, chalky, slightly leesy, complex, great wine, great bottle

Mugnier 2008 Nuits-St-Georges 1er "Clos de la Marechale" - bright, crisp, pure, open for business, sweet cherries and pale earth, wow

Dom. Collotte 2005 Marsannay "Cuvee Vieille Vignes" - also funky at first, then robust, not "fine" but flavorful and medium- to heavy- weight; later research shows this is a Weygandt import and includes several different parcels of 50+ year vines

Scherrer 2013 Zinfandel "Old & Mature Vines" - trite to say but this gives a hint of Burgundy... blackberry flavor but also earth and fine tannins, eventually this becomes really phenolic so give it 10 more years; Day 2: coming down off its phenolic high, there is sweet raspberry and face powder; just for the record, the Old vines are 108 years old now

Paolo Bea 2010 Sagrantino di Montefalco Secco "Pagliaro" - OMG, the deepest bluest fruit, fine tannins coat the razor-wire, a finish as tangy as any riesling (somewhat unexpected in a red wine), long and grippy, love it; Day 2: funky nose now (VA?), palate still rich and meaty
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
TN: Green Garden (Feb 6, 2020)

Dom. Collotte 2005 Marsannay "Cuvee Vieille Vignes" - also funky at first, then robust, not "fine" but flavorful and medium- to heavy- weight; later research shows this is a Weygandt import and includes several different parcels of 50+ year vines

Just had the Collotte 2010 Marsannay Les Champsalomon and it is in a very nice place. Maybe a little funky, but the acidic edge and the associated cranberry/currant flavor is the dominant profile. This would not be a crowd pleasing wine, but my son and I are backyard camping tonight and it is quite enjoyable with grilled salmon and a beautiful evening.
 
originally posted by John M:
Just had the Collotte 2010 Marsannay Les Champsalomon and it is in a very nice place. Maybe a little funky, but the acidic edge and the associated cranberry/currant flavor is the dominant profile. This would not be a crowd pleasing wine, but my son and I are backyard camping tonight and it is quite enjoyable with grilled salmon and a beautiful evening.
Backyard camping with cellar - I approve.
 
Those were the days. Dungeness crab with Ginger and Spring Onions at Great China, plus a Vouvray from their birth year, has been our go-to birthday dinner with our kids for years.
 
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