Jeff Grossman
Jeff Grossman
* On the subject of "Natural Wines," since the definitions can be vague, I have decided to pontificate a bit. Something tells me some of our readers have a bit of spare time on their hands.
It seems clear that everyone who is familiar with the concept of natural wines can agree that the grapes are supposed to be farmed organically (or optionally with Bio-dynamic principles or preparations also used). It should be safe to continue from this precept, and assume that the wild (native or indigenous) yeasts do the fermentation, and that the wines are bottled with minimal intervention, save a small optional addition of SO2, which acts as a preservative and anti-oxidant. Simple enough, no?
But what I (and many others) have noticed is that the market is now flooded with so-called natural wines, often unfined and unfiltered, and all sporting cute, new-age labels. Some of them are marketed as natural wines because no sulfites are added, even though they are made with chemically farmed grapes! Others are subject to a sliding scale of sulfur levels, as "natural" proves a very sellable label. I noticed lately a prominent direct to consumer mail order "Natural Wine Club" on the West Coast that promises that all the wines are natural and are under 75ppm of SO2 total. When I talk to winemakers in France and they say "C'est nature," they specifically mean there is NO sulfur added whatsoever. When one consults with the leading natural wine associations in the world (remember there is no official certification yet), total SO2 is generally acceptable at levels under 40ppm for dry whites and reds.
Now, this is a complicated subject, as there are different types of measurable SO2 in wines - namely free (non-binding) and binding - and the total level can vary depending on many factors, BUT!....it's still generally agreed that a natural wine could have a tiny addition of SO2, but should rest around or under 40ppm.
Maybe it runs in the family, but both my father and I are sensitive to wines that have total sulfur levels above 40ppm (give or take), so the idea that a wine with 75ppm could be termed "natural" is a bit mind-boggling to me. To be completely clear about the wines we are featuring in our Natural Wine Sampler Case, I have selected ONLY wines with no addition of SO2. The first truly natural "natural wine case!"
Please understand, this is by no means a claim that the wines are better. I often find that wines without any addition of sulfites might have benefited from a small dose to prevent them from being overly wild (some NO SO2 added wines are frankly quite flawed). This is just an effort to highlight the women and men who believe in their farming and the natural acidity and fortitude of their wines, and venture to do what could be considered one of the hardest things to do in the winemaking world - make a true, pure wine of terroir without any additions or manipulation.
If you have any questions or would like to discuss further, feel free to email me at elillie@chambersstwines.com
-Eben Lillie
It seems clear that everyone who is familiar with the concept of natural wines can agree that the grapes are supposed to be farmed organically (or optionally with Bio-dynamic principles or preparations also used). It should be safe to continue from this precept, and assume that the wild (native or indigenous) yeasts do the fermentation, and that the wines are bottled with minimal intervention, save a small optional addition of SO2, which acts as a preservative and anti-oxidant. Simple enough, no?
But what I (and many others) have noticed is that the market is now flooded with so-called natural wines, often unfined and unfiltered, and all sporting cute, new-age labels. Some of them are marketed as natural wines because no sulfites are added, even though they are made with chemically farmed grapes! Others are subject to a sliding scale of sulfur levels, as "natural" proves a very sellable label. I noticed lately a prominent direct to consumer mail order "Natural Wine Club" on the West Coast that promises that all the wines are natural and are under 75ppm of SO2 total. When I talk to winemakers in France and they say "C'est nature," they specifically mean there is NO sulfur added whatsoever. When one consults with the leading natural wine associations in the world (remember there is no official certification yet), total SO2 is generally acceptable at levels under 40ppm for dry whites and reds.
Now, this is a complicated subject, as there are different types of measurable SO2 in wines - namely free (non-binding) and binding - and the total level can vary depending on many factors, BUT!....it's still generally agreed that a natural wine could have a tiny addition of SO2, but should rest around or under 40ppm.
Maybe it runs in the family, but both my father and I are sensitive to wines that have total sulfur levels above 40ppm (give or take), so the idea that a wine with 75ppm could be termed "natural" is a bit mind-boggling to me. To be completely clear about the wines we are featuring in our Natural Wine Sampler Case, I have selected ONLY wines with no addition of SO2. The first truly natural "natural wine case!"
Please understand, this is by no means a claim that the wines are better. I often find that wines without any addition of sulfites might have benefited from a small dose to prevent them from being overly wild (some NO SO2 added wines are frankly quite flawed). This is just an effort to highlight the women and men who believe in their farming and the natural acidity and fortitude of their wines, and venture to do what could be considered one of the hardest things to do in the winemaking world - make a true, pure wine of terroir without any additions or manipulation.
If you have any questions or would like to discuss further, feel free to email me at elillie@chambersstwines.com
-Eben Lillie
