Christian Miller (CMM)
Christian Miller
In an attempt to distract myself, maybe others, from the current grim news cycle, I'm posting some notes on the more interesting wines I have had recently. I hope these are available in your respective home towns. Feel free to say this is uninteresting, I'm never really sure with tasting notes.
Cortese 2018, Produttori de Gavi - it had been years since I drank a Gavi, which I associate with pleasant but uninteresting wines, so I was skeptical when Steve Kopp at Oddlots foisted this on me. He was right: mild vinous-lemon nose; medium-light body, taut middle with chalk-acid-pomelo flavor, quite long with chalky-minerally tone and tactile sense like lemon powder. This wine evokes what I like about Chablis more than nearly every other “Chablis-like” wine I've had. I just wish it had more aroma. Good value at $12.
Viognier 2017, Lodi Clement Hills Morales vineyard, Urbano Cellars - a bit awkward a year ago, this wine is singing now. Aromatic with classic Viognier floral nectarine plus an intriguing herbal-earthy tone; med-full body, ripe almost lush peachskin-passionfruit flavor kept in check by an almost tactile dryness, like chalk dust; adequate acidity and medium length. 13.9% alc with no sign of heat. From an adorably small and unpretentious shoestring urban winery in Berkeley, sadly closing soon (closing planned a while ago, not related to Covid).
Cotes de Gascogne "Haut Marin les Fossiles" 2019, Elizabeth Prataviera - very pale gold with green tinge; fresh aroma with slightly floral-grassy tone like Casablanca SB plus a leafy element; med-light body, tangy acid, green apple-lime fruit with a touch of passionfruit, slight phenolic spinach-lime rind note maintains the medium length finish. 60% Colombard, 20% SB, 20% Gros Manseng, 11.5% alcohol. Terrific value at only $12. Another data point supporting my contention that Cotes de Gascogne with some Manseng in the blend are consistently some of the world’s greatest white wine values.
Riesling Willamette Valley "Ara" 2017, Brooks - more piney-stoney-earthy than floral, with solid green-apple Riesling fruit underneath, off dry, long finish, good future ahead but already complex. Although Trisaetum has gotten more high-end press, Brooks is Oregon’s flagbearer for the state’s underrated Rieslings. Pricey at $38, but they also make good less expensive Rieslings.
Gewurztraminer Elkton 2015, Brandborg - fragrant, lively, floral-lichee nose, dry but big fruit gives it a pleasant impression of sweetness, fine balance. $18. Year after year, Brandborg makes terrific Gewurz, shamefully under-appreciated. Wish they had wider distribution.
Cuvée Pyrénées Kubli Bench, Applegate Valley 2017, Troon - good current fruit nose with tinges of iron/oak/earth; full, grippy, dense fruit, some sappy-iron-earth complexities, impressive length and structure. 60% Tannat, 40% Malbec. Very SW France in feel and seems like a good bet for the cellar. Pricey at $65, but I appreciate the concept. Craig Camp has taken over winemaking at Troon (a couple of years ago?) and has a great track record in Oregon and California.
Pinot Gris Willamette Valley Estate 2017, Eyrie - fine complex if subtle aroma with PG fruit, some stony-apricot-flinty complexities; med body, mouthcoating yet lively, good acid and length, very impressive. This wine seems to get better every year; I used to call it one of Oregon’s best PGs, but now I’m wondering if I’ve ever had a better one from anywhere.
Riesling Finger Lakes Reserve 2014, Boundary Breaks - never heard of them before until this was recommended to us at Terroir a month ago, it blew me away; and more importantly every single person at the table loved it, from wine aficionados to casual drinkers to sweet tooths. Fine fragrance with peachy-appley fruit, floral and mild pine components; med-light body, good acid, similar flavor, persistent finish with broad middle and some grip. One of the best Finger Lakes Rieslings I've had. Captures the spirit of Kabinett Rieslings with the terroir and slightly more heft of the Finger Lakes, and a Dönhoff sense of balance.
Bergerac Sec "Petit Fugue" 2014, Ch. De Payral - intriguing med strength aroma with celery, pear, slight grassy-herbal and matchstick; med body, round with decent acidity, plumpish but juicy fruit, beginning to mature with a bit of savory green melon-kohlrabi flavor, smooth, dry but soft moderate finish. Interesting, better than many more expensive Bordeaux, Graves or Pessac whites IMHO. 60% Sauv Gris, 40% Sauv Blanc (Charles Neal selection). Terrific value at $12.
Cortese 2018, Produttori de Gavi - it had been years since I drank a Gavi, which I associate with pleasant but uninteresting wines, so I was skeptical when Steve Kopp at Oddlots foisted this on me. He was right: mild vinous-lemon nose; medium-light body, taut middle with chalk-acid-pomelo flavor, quite long with chalky-minerally tone and tactile sense like lemon powder. This wine evokes what I like about Chablis more than nearly every other “Chablis-like” wine I've had. I just wish it had more aroma. Good value at $12.
Viognier 2017, Lodi Clement Hills Morales vineyard, Urbano Cellars - a bit awkward a year ago, this wine is singing now. Aromatic with classic Viognier floral nectarine plus an intriguing herbal-earthy tone; med-full body, ripe almost lush peachskin-passionfruit flavor kept in check by an almost tactile dryness, like chalk dust; adequate acidity and medium length. 13.9% alc with no sign of heat. From an adorably small and unpretentious shoestring urban winery in Berkeley, sadly closing soon (closing planned a while ago, not related to Covid).
Cotes de Gascogne "Haut Marin les Fossiles" 2019, Elizabeth Prataviera - very pale gold with green tinge; fresh aroma with slightly floral-grassy tone like Casablanca SB plus a leafy element; med-light body, tangy acid, green apple-lime fruit with a touch of passionfruit, slight phenolic spinach-lime rind note maintains the medium length finish. 60% Colombard, 20% SB, 20% Gros Manseng, 11.5% alcohol. Terrific value at only $12. Another data point supporting my contention that Cotes de Gascogne with some Manseng in the blend are consistently some of the world’s greatest white wine values.
Riesling Willamette Valley "Ara" 2017, Brooks - more piney-stoney-earthy than floral, with solid green-apple Riesling fruit underneath, off dry, long finish, good future ahead but already complex. Although Trisaetum has gotten more high-end press, Brooks is Oregon’s flagbearer for the state’s underrated Rieslings. Pricey at $38, but they also make good less expensive Rieslings.
Gewurztraminer Elkton 2015, Brandborg - fragrant, lively, floral-lichee nose, dry but big fruit gives it a pleasant impression of sweetness, fine balance. $18. Year after year, Brandborg makes terrific Gewurz, shamefully under-appreciated. Wish they had wider distribution.
Cuvée Pyrénées Kubli Bench, Applegate Valley 2017, Troon - good current fruit nose with tinges of iron/oak/earth; full, grippy, dense fruit, some sappy-iron-earth complexities, impressive length and structure. 60% Tannat, 40% Malbec. Very SW France in feel and seems like a good bet for the cellar. Pricey at $65, but I appreciate the concept. Craig Camp has taken over winemaking at Troon (a couple of years ago?) and has a great track record in Oregon and California.
Pinot Gris Willamette Valley Estate 2017, Eyrie - fine complex if subtle aroma with PG fruit, some stony-apricot-flinty complexities; med body, mouthcoating yet lively, good acid and length, very impressive. This wine seems to get better every year; I used to call it one of Oregon’s best PGs, but now I’m wondering if I’ve ever had a better one from anywhere.
Riesling Finger Lakes Reserve 2014, Boundary Breaks - never heard of them before until this was recommended to us at Terroir a month ago, it blew me away; and more importantly every single person at the table loved it, from wine aficionados to casual drinkers to sweet tooths. Fine fragrance with peachy-appley fruit, floral and mild pine components; med-light body, good acid, similar flavor, persistent finish with broad middle and some grip. One of the best Finger Lakes Rieslings I've had. Captures the spirit of Kabinett Rieslings with the terroir and slightly more heft of the Finger Lakes, and a Dönhoff sense of balance.
Bergerac Sec "Petit Fugue" 2014, Ch. De Payral - intriguing med strength aroma with celery, pear, slight grassy-herbal and matchstick; med body, round with decent acidity, plumpish but juicy fruit, beginning to mature with a bit of savory green melon-kohlrabi flavor, smooth, dry but soft moderate finish. Interesting, better than many more expensive Bordeaux, Graves or Pessac whites IMHO. 60% Sauv Gris, 40% Sauv Blanc (Charles Neal selection). Terrific value at $12.
