2013 Jean-Claude Rateau Beaune Les Bressandes 1er Cru 13.0%

[Oswaldo Costa]

Rateau is a producer who seldom appears in these pages, despite support from CSW. One wants to support him for being the pioneer (since 1979) of biodynamics in Burgundy but the handful of experiences I’ve had with his wines have not been stellar. When this 2013 appeared at my local pusher, I decided to give him another chance.

Opened on a Fruit night, the aroma showed attractive pinosity with some complexity, tending towards the dark side of the red spectrum. The mouth was more sour than sweet before food, with a bitter finish. The fruit was nice enough, but had a toasted/smoked component that I didn't love (wonder if this comes from wood toast, even if the barrels are used). With food, the package came closer to balance, but the dip from nose to mouth continued to hamper a transition into blissful indifference. Another small disappointment, perhaps increased by wanting to like it.

If my reaction (which Marcia shared) is not 100% subjective, perhaps the problem is a consequence of virtue: if this, let's say, procedurally transparent wine expresses Bressandes without makeup and this well-known vineyard was less than stellar in 2013, all would be explained. Or maybe the guy just doesn't have a red thumb (I haven't tried his whites).

 

[Rahsaan]

You posted at the height of covid, and no responses.

I've also wondered about Rateau over the years, often finding a reason not to buy. But tonight I found myself with 2017 Rateau Les Bressandes and it showed many faces. At first it was somehow combining a ripe juicy creamy body with high-toned tart flavors. But, then it settled down into silky ripe but also earthy and slightly-four-square Beaune-ness.

All in all, it reinforced my prejudice against Beaune, as it's not the area to make me forget my favorite villages. But, it was also very nice and stylish and probably has a place in my rotation.