TN: The Virtual Tasting #1 (June 11, 2020)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Don, Jay, Jayson, Jeff, Lisa, Scott & Anne-Marie, Victor

It began with a dream.

Jay dreamed of getting some of those bottles out of his house.

There were a lot of them. The dogs had to climb over three cases to reach their doggie beds. An OWC 6-pack had to be moved from the microwave to the oven to the dishwasher, depending on which device needed to be used that day. Jay himself had to move two magnums just to reach his toothbrush. Something had to be done.

Simple guzzling is not an answer. These are bottles intended to share with special people, in honor of other times, in a spirit of caring and camaraderie, and, perhaps, with a dash of showmanship. (Did you know that Jay and P. T. Barnum share a kindergarten graduation date, some years apart?)

What to do?

Specialty Bottle, Inc. to the rescue.

Along with the third member of the Virtual Tasting cabal, Jayson, we acquired enough 3 oz Blake bottles to hold 4 bottles of wine - this time, two from Jay and two from me. Jay and Arnold then drove around town to deliver the bottlings, bearing arcane marks, to a brace of willing winos for a blind event. (Timestamps on the coordination emails are a little spotty but it appears the excursion took them around 3 hrs.)

As expected, several people were eating dinner at the start of the event and we had some technology matters to resolve, but it all went really well. It was a great pleasure to see everyone and to have a common experience to banter about. And from there off into the usual wide world of Life, work, gardens, etc.

We drank in the order dictated by some coin flips:

Jay's "C" - Drouhin 1993 Morey Saint Denis GC "Clos St Denis" - Victor picked this out immediately as Burgundy but it's not so easy to identify the village or the vintage! The wine is dark, youthful, meaty, though perhaps not so meaty as Gevrey can be, so several of us plunk for NSG. After guessing a half a dozen more places in the Cote d'Or we eventually land in MSD. We did somewhat better on the vintage because the wine had potent acidity so we made it back to 1993 with only a minimum of help from Jay. Outstanding bottle, it got better and better with air. Jay noted this wine is really made by Jouan for Drouhin.

Jeff's "Blue Dot" - Gonon 2010 Saint-Joseph - Screams syrah, hard to imagine it could be anything else. Very blue-fruit, palate neither especially old nor especially young but has some slightly raspy tannins, and later shows a touch of sweetness (suggests from a warm year). Many people call it Cornas. Another outstanding bottle.

Jay's "R" - Roagna 1996 Barolo "La Pira e La Rocca" - Yeesh, aversive nose of spoilage and sewage. Jay encourages us to push through, and indeed the palate is sound, also meaty and rather food-friendly. Others are calling Barolo but I swear there are pyrazines in here (does nebbiolo come from Chinon?). We are all amazed at the vintage reveal... is this what is meant by the 1996s being immortal?

Jeff's "Red Dot" - Allemand 2004 Cornas "Chaillots" - In the morning this was very closed and showing a hint of brett, but all was well by tasting time: this was all red fruit with bright acidity. In time there were faded roses and sous bois, and eventually a hint of Band-Aids shows up. This was suave and silky and yummy but I'll admit I've had better bottles.

Of course, no one restricted themselves to their Blake pours. I did not catch everyone's private tipples but I know Jayson was drinking Godme Champagne and, as I knew my theme, I also opened Dom. Tunnel 2005 Cornas "Vin Noir" (from some of Juge's holdings, this still has the depth and flavor intensity of those old vines, very pure and whistle-clean (too clean?)).

Here is a good snapshot from the start of the event (click to embiggen):
2020-06-11_wynzum.jpg
 
Nicely done. Marc D and I have done a similar version a couple of times now during the shut down. We're due for another round...
 
Outstanding! I was only mystified by the comment about the Drouhin's potent acidity being a clue to the vintage, since 2003 is low acidity (unless, of course, by potent you meant added).
 
I feel the same way about the Tunnel Cornas. It is very good, but it lacks a certain rusticity I expect from a Cornas. It is also a very good embodiment of the rule of 15 or at least the rule of more than 10 since it has taken a while to come around.
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
Outstanding! I was only mystified by the comment about the Drouhin's potent acidity being a clue to the vintage, since 2003 is low acidity (unless, of course, by potent you meant added).
Ooh, now that you say that... I think that's a typo. I think it was 1993, not 2003, which fits the note better.

Jay, can you confirm?
 
originally posted by Brian C:
Nicely done. Marc D and I have done a similar version a couple of times now during the shut down. We're due for another round...

We should grab BJ and do a pan-Pacific NW version.
 
It occurred to me that I've been acquainted with some folks in that picture for about 20 years. In fact, we are approaching the 20th anniversary of Motor Oil Marvels.

I was also trying to find that one we did at Inside where Dressner poured 1/3 of the bottle of Allemand into his glass.

Anyway, nice to see familiar (and potentially even friendly) faces.
 
Also clos st denis, as a grand cru, is its own appellation so while that vyd is in MSD it is incorrect to label it as MSD.

Knowing Jay I’d bet it was a ‘93.
 
originally posted by maureen:
Also clos st denis, as a grand cru, is its own appellation so while that vyd is in MSD it is incorrect to label it as MSD.

Knowing Jay I’d bet it was a ‘93.

It was ‘93. The guesses centered around fairly structured vintages. No one guessed MSD or CSD though.

The Allemand was fabulous and kept getting better. I’ve had that wine 3 times within the past 2 years, including in March, and this was an excellent bottle, Jeff. Thank you! I ultimately loved its complexity, detail, and layers over the shear force and less complex but intense flavor of the Gonon.
 
originally posted by VLM:
It occurred to me that I've been acquainted with some folks in that picture for about 20 years. In fact, we are approaching the 20th anniversary of Motor Oil Marvels.

I was also trying to find that one we did at Inside where Dressner poured 1/3 of the bottle of Allemand into his glass.

Anyway, nice to see familiar (and potentially even friendly) faces.

Wow! Thanks, Nathan. Motor oil brought me back. That must have been the first time we met. Or was it with Dal Piaz? Reading the old notes, I can’t help but wonder what I brought, trying desperately to clear the cobwebs. Possibly Roally but more likely the Beaumes-de-Venise. Or both?

We had another Zoom last weekend with a similar crowd, and these old offlines at Minetta we’re a topic—and not for the first time over the last decade.
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by VLM:
It occurred to me that I've been acquainted with some folks in that picture for about 20 years. In fact, we are approaching the 20th anniversary of Motor Oil Marvels.

I was also trying to find that one we did at Inside where Dressner poured 1/3 of the bottle of Allemand into his glass.

Anyway, nice to see familiar (and potentially even friendly) faces.

Wow! Thanks, Nathan. Motor oil brought me back. That must have been the first time we met. Or was it with Dal Piaz? Reading the old notes, I can’t help but wonder what I brought, trying desperately to clear the cobwebs. Possibly Roally but more likely the Beaumes-de-Venise. Or both?

We had another Zoom last weekend with a similar crowd, and these old offlines at Minetta we’re a topic—and not for the first time over the last decade.

That was my first time with the NY group. Some folks really did think that I was a character created by Dressner and we're surprised to see me in person. I brought the Groffier Amoureuses and stopped buying it thereafter.

That offline was the beginning of some very meaningful friendships for me. I was still in graduate school, which is so hard to even conceptualize now.
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by VLM:
It occurred to me that I've been acquainted with some folks in that picture for about 20 years. In fact, we are approaching the 20th anniversary of Motor Oil Marvels.

I was also trying to find that one we did at Inside where Dressner poured 1/3 of the bottle of Allemand into his glass.

Anyway, nice to see familiar (and potentially even friendly) faces.

Wow! Thanks, Nathan. Motor oil brought me back. That must have been the first time we met. Or was it with Dal Piaz? Reading the old notes, I can’t help but wonder what I brought, trying desperately to clear the cobwebs. Possibly Roally but more likely the Beaumes-de-Venise. Or both?

We had another Zoom last weekend with a similar crowd, and these old offlines at Minetta we’re a topic—and not for the first time over the last decade.

Some folks really did think that I was a character created by Dressner and we're surprised to see me in person.

Can you blame us?

That offline was the beginning of some very meaningful friendships for me. I was still in graduate school, which is so hard to even conceptualize now.

I can relate. January was the 20-year anniversary of my thesis defense.
 
originally posted by Mike Evans:
Sounds fun, though it seems you had four braces of willing winos and not just one.

Four braces, plus 1! And given the nature of the beast, driving distance was a factor in who joined. For example, the secretary of the politburo retired to his dacha in the country while waiting out the siege of Stalingrad.
 
There are 7 bottles so canonically there are 3.5 braces of winos. Scott and Anne-Marie shared a portion so I'll admit some plausible uncertainty - in the written transcription of my perfect thoughts (which I may access and you cannot (nyaaah!)) - whether I was referring to a Platonic ideal of winos or actual exemplars.

Or just scribbling.
 
I just noticed Jay's notes elsewhere:

1996 Roagna Barolo La Rocca e La Pira Nebbiolo

Opened as part of our first blind zoom tasting from 3 oz glass bottle.
When I decanted this and poured it into the bottles it has a pure and beautiful nose and a tiny pour showed fruit redolent of raspberries.
Unfortunately when poured from the small glass bottles it has that really cheesy funky offputting nose you sometimes get with old Barolo. I kept hoping it would blow off but it didn't over the course of the Zoom call.
Quite good on the palate if you could get past the nose. Still tannic but a fine match with the steak and mushrooms I cooked to go with it. But disappointing overall and I'm not certain whether to serve my remaining bottle immediately after opening or give it a really long decant.
Purchased as part of the distributor close out about 20 years ago.

1993 Joseph Drouhin Clos St. Denis Clos St. Denis Grand Cru Pinot Noir

Opened as part of our first blind zoom tasting from 3 oz glass bottle.
Amazingly beautiful flower garden of a nose. The term bouquet was never more appropriate. On the palate it was good to start with some lovely notes of underbrush and kept improving with air but was imo still a bit young.
I'd either decant or hold a few more years.
Consumed from a Zalto Burgundy glass. I usually hate this stem for its huge and ungainly size but it showed off the nose better than anything else I tried.
Purchased at auction about 20 years ago.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
I just noticed Jay's notes elsewhere:

1996 Roagna Barolo La Rocca e La Pira Nebbiolo

Purchased as part of the distributor close out about 20 years ago.

I checked my records and I bought two bottles during that closeout in 2006, $27 apiece.
 
originally posted by Zachary Ross:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
I just noticed Jay's notes elsewhere:

1996 Roagna Barolo La Rocca e La Pira Nebbiolo

Purchased as part of the distributor close out about 20 years ago.

I checked my records and I bought two bottles during that closeout in 2006, $27 apiece.

Ah, so 14 years ago then. You keep better records than I do.
 
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