CWD: Recent 2002 Dnnhoff

V

VLM

VLM
2002 Dnnhoff Schlobckelheimer Kupfergrube Riesling Sptlese
I think that I might like my German riesling on the young side. This was pretty good, but getting a bit of that lactic quality that I really dont love. Not sure what it is. I really love Dnnhoff when it is young for its piercing clarity and vigor. The Kupfergrube is always on the fat side of the portfolio and 2002 was no exception. Lots of plump fruit which went nicely with the spicy dishes, but it didnt show particular verve or cut. I am not sure what to tell folks to do with this. I guess hold it for a while if you like the secondary flavors and aromas of Nahe riesling. I think I may only like vintages like 1996 that have crunchy acid forever. I sold off most of my Dnnhoff in the not to distant past (if you bought some 1998s a year or so ago, youre welcome). Ill check in with a Hermanshlle soon and see whats up there.

2002 Dnnhoff Niederhuser Hermannshhle Riesling Sptlese
The cork completely disintegrated on this bottle. Right down the middle, it was crazy. Anyway, once we got this sorted out we could get into the wine. Much snappier and prettier than the 2002 Kupfergrube that I had at the same restaurant recently. While the Kupfergrube had gone a little milky, this was still pristine, pure, sappy and joyous. Ive been pretty clear recently about how my tastes I think do not really run towards aging these wines. Maybe it is just the old-school, low alcohol, high acid Sptlese from the Mosel that can really do it for me? Not sure, but Im going to go ahead and drink mine where I like them.

1997 Jacques Puffeney Savagnin Arbois
Still had a very good color and the nose was more subtle and mature ff less penetrating. J4P seemed to think the wine was much more complete than when it was younger. It certainly showed pretty well, but I cant help think it was missing some thrust and verve.
 
Donnhoff spatlesen are never going to evolve as high-acid, electric wines. They are not balanced that way in their youth, and the wines are so harmonious from the get go, that evolution merely aplifies the original textures.
 
I've come around to the same view on aging spatlese-type riesling. Many of them get dulled by the sweetness over time, but I like the cut and sizzle they have on release, and when that's gone I tend to lose interest. Fortunately some take a long time to lose it, but even many of those are never better for my palate than on day one.

BTW, if it makes you feel any better about parting with your Donnhoffs, 2 out of 3 of my ex-VLM Hermannshohles were corked.
 
originally posted by Keith Levenberg:
I've come around to the same view on aging spatlese-type riesling. Many of them get dulled by the sweetness over time, but I like the cut and sizzle they have on release...
Click to expand...

Still plenty of cut and sizzle in aged spatlese from the right producers in the Saar and the Ruwer. At least at 5-10 years of age.
 
Acidity doesn't age out (if it did the 1996s would be a lot more appealing).

What happens with the Donnhoff wines is that they show an abundance of secondary elements, including a creaminess that tends to obscure acidity in the same way or even more than does initial baby fat.

If you don't like that creaminess (and I love it) then aging the wines is likely not for you.

It's not something I have run into with Saar or Ruwer wines with any regularity. Some Christoffels have it even when young (the 2001 Wurzgarten Auslese* had and still has it in spades), so it's not isolated to Donnhoff.
 
originally posted by David M. Bueker:
Donnhoff spatlesen are never going to evolve as high-acid, electric wines. They are not balanced that way in their youth, and the wines are so harmonious from the get go, that evolution merely aplifies the original textures.
Click to expand...

Agreed. Thus my decision to drink them young. They can be such beautiful young wines. You and I (IIRC) are both Brcke fans, which is the most mineral and electric of the bunch.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Keith Levenberg:
I've come around to the same view on aging spatlese-type riesling. Many of them get dulled by the sweetness over time, but I like the cut and sizzle they have on release...
Click to expand...

Still plenty of cut and sizzle in aged spatlese from the right producers in the Saar and the Ruwer. At least at 5-10 years of age.
Click to expand...

Agreed. Different beasts.
 
originally posted by David M. Bueker:
Acidity doesn't age out (if it did the 1996s would be a lot more appealing).
Click to expand...

I actually like the 1996s, but don't own any more. I'll happily drink yours.

What happens with the Donnhoff wines is that they show an abundance of secondary elements, including a creaminess that tends to obscure acidity in the same way or even more than does initial baby fat.

If you don't like that creaminess (and I love it) then aging the wines is likely not for you.
Click to expand...

Agree totally. Thus, my decision.

It's not something I have run into with Saar or Ruwer wines with any regularity. Some Christoffels have it even when young (the 2001 Wurzgarten Auslese* had and still has it in spades), so it's not isolated to Donnhoff.
Click to expand...

Again, agree upon Christoffels. We've gotta stop meeting like this.
 
I never thought I would say this, but while Brcke is a wine that I will age long term, the Kirschheck is consistently surprising me with its ability to reward cellaring. The '99 Kirschheck (from a vintage that produced almost nothing compelling) is just a joy to drink now.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top