Jeff Grossman
Jeff Grossman
Written by Pascaline Lepeltier, published by Chambers Street Wines in their 25-Sep-2020 offer of Dom. Philippe Tessier wines
Just a note on this grape, as Philippe and Simon are very fond of it, which makes me very happy! Once again, we can thank Henri Galinié and his work on Loire grape varieties. In this case, I am referring to this one - Les noms Framboise, Dannery, Romorantin (1712-1904). (pdf)
In terms of origins, forget the story about Romorantin being brought from Burgundy when Francis the 1st created his vineyard. Like the 1709 frost and Muscadet, there is no historic validation of it. What we know - thanks to historians, grape geneticists and vignerons - is that Romorantin is one of the names used, and not the first one (it was Framboise, which in 18th century French means “delicate smell” - it also means raspberry). The grape with its multiple synonyms seems to appear in the 18th century, and arrived around Cour-Cheverny in the early 19th century.
It is a cross between Pinot Teinturier (a mutation of Pinot Noir which gives darker juice) and Gouais, relating it to Chardonnay and Melon. It is a rustic grape, budding early, ripening later than usually written about it (for example it is always the last grape to be harvested at Tessier’s, whatever the style, usually a good week after the reds). It produces significant yield according to Philippe, so you have to prune it short to get something interesting, and ripe. Its acidity is striking. The stems and the berries have a reddish color. The cluster is compact, but when ready to be picked the skin is quite fragile. Romorantin is very sensitive to Botrytis, and can make very unique noble rot bottlings.
When young, it can be confused with Chardonnay. It needs some time in the bottle to reveal its honey, acacia, jasmine, almond milk notes. With age, it makes me think of it as Chenin crossed with an Aligoté. It is very versatile in style, from bone dry to sweet, bubbles, and even skin-maceration. The best ones can age 10-15 years at least, as I was lucky to experiment in their dry and off-dry versions.
This is really a very interesting grape, and we need to thank those who fought to preserve the 70ha (20% of Central Park's surface) currently planted with this variety, including some 150 year old vines saved at Henry Marionnet which cuttings were used to replant a vineyard in the Ch“teau de Chambord!
Philippe and Simon Tessier are without a doubt some of the pillars of Romorantin preservation! Without their work and their love for this grape, it would be even harder to taste it and enjoy its uniqueness! They farm 6.5 ha - one of the largest holdings, with those of Michel Gendrier, François Cazin and Hervé Villemade. The Tessier produce up to 6 different cuvées of Romorantin in the best years, including a skin-macerated, a late-harvest and a sparkling. Is this not love...
Just a note on this grape, as Philippe and Simon are very fond of it, which makes me very happy! Once again, we can thank Henri Galinié and his work on Loire grape varieties. In this case, I am referring to this one - Les noms Framboise, Dannery, Romorantin (1712-1904). (pdf)
In terms of origins, forget the story about Romorantin being brought from Burgundy when Francis the 1st created his vineyard. Like the 1709 frost and Muscadet, there is no historic validation of it. What we know - thanks to historians, grape geneticists and vignerons - is that Romorantin is one of the names used, and not the first one (it was Framboise, which in 18th century French means “delicate smell” - it also means raspberry). The grape with its multiple synonyms seems to appear in the 18th century, and arrived around Cour-Cheverny in the early 19th century.
It is a cross between Pinot Teinturier (a mutation of Pinot Noir which gives darker juice) and Gouais, relating it to Chardonnay and Melon. It is a rustic grape, budding early, ripening later than usually written about it (for example it is always the last grape to be harvested at Tessier’s, whatever the style, usually a good week after the reds). It produces significant yield according to Philippe, so you have to prune it short to get something interesting, and ripe. Its acidity is striking. The stems and the berries have a reddish color. The cluster is compact, but when ready to be picked the skin is quite fragile. Romorantin is very sensitive to Botrytis, and can make very unique noble rot bottlings.
When young, it can be confused with Chardonnay. It needs some time in the bottle to reveal its honey, acacia, jasmine, almond milk notes. With age, it makes me think of it as Chenin crossed with an Aligoté. It is very versatile in style, from bone dry to sweet, bubbles, and even skin-maceration. The best ones can age 10-15 years at least, as I was lucky to experiment in their dry and off-dry versions.
This is really a very interesting grape, and we need to thank those who fought to preserve the 70ha (20% of Central Park's surface) currently planted with this variety, including some 150 year old vines saved at Henry Marionnet which cuttings were used to replant a vineyard in the Ch“teau de Chambord!
Philippe and Simon Tessier are without a doubt some of the pillars of Romorantin preservation! Without their work and their love for this grape, it would be even harder to taste it and enjoy its uniqueness! They farm 6.5 ha - one of the largest holdings, with those of Michel Gendrier, François Cazin and Hervé Villemade. The Tessier produce up to 6 different cuvées of Romorantin in the best years, including a skin-macerated, a late-harvest and a sparkling. Is this not love...