winereactionsarethenewtrend and a jay miller reference

M

Mark Anisman

Mark Anisman
first. the jay miller reference
22 out (17 were drunk, 5 returned to rightful owner)
2 in (both gifts but i guess that has to be counted. but they were received after 8pm, so maybe they shouldn’t be counted?)

scores are inscribed in personal notes, but not here. the overall score average for these wines was 93. all wines purchased on release.

1 October : 2014 François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Franc de Pied Les Bournais
first time. more about a textural richness than feeling its chenin blancness. enjoyed but not pushed to wax memorably.
2 October : 2018 Dirty & Rowdy Mourvèdre Rodnick Farm
glou-glou wine needed to fend off the pervasive Damocles sword bearing of a Napa Valley inundated by the tactile smoke and imminent threat of the fires. Respite attained. All about shiny fruit and happiness.Not complex but not looking for that today. A joy.
4 October : 2001 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod / Barthod-Noëllat Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras
Assertive as one would anticipate in a wine both from les Cras and Barthod. Almost resolved primary structure and excellent wine that is reminiscent of John Mayall (room to move).
8 October : 2009 Domaine des Terres Dorées (Jean-Paul Brun) Fleurie
what’s not to love about a Brun wine. red fruits persist til the finish, and one would not guess as a fruity 2009.. Tannins present but remains balanced. Will be alive in 5 or even 10 years.
10 October : 1990 Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Spéciale La Migoua
dried fruit. warm vintage. not complex. basic risotto with duck stock and fennel sausage. works together like Lebron and Irving.
11 October : 2001 Carl Schmitt-Wagner Longuicher Maximiner Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett
such a pleasure. fresh. great balance. Charged with sadness as winery has left our world.
14 October : 2006 Simon Bize Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Fournaux
sweet but hard / lean. all about rustic fruit, not complex per se. very Savigny. Lovely with roast chicken with a duck stock / butter sauce infused with thyme.
16 October : 2010 Koehler-Ruprecht Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Kabinett trocken
regret to say memory fails a bit here. perhaps not memorable? but i always enjoy wines in this style and no exception here.
18 October : 2004 Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Vieilles Vignes Clos des Briords
not complex but soft lemon (not the acidy fresh lemon) and creamy. a delight. i would hazard a bet that this would be a wine david lillie might wish to bring in. i will send him a note advising him of same. a positive return on aging. although this fit the cuisine to a tee tonight, a more frisky and youthful version would rightfully seek other opportunities at the table and be as much as a success.
20 October : 2018 Hofgut Falkenstein Krettnacher Euchariusberg Riesling Kabinett Alte Reben
left me wanting a bit more acid. good wine that none the less dragged down the score average, but reflecting personal preference
22 October : 2007 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese #10
i am not a big fan of 2007 Mosel wines as i am a heat seeking missile for high acid wines, but the fruit was so beautiful and balanced in the context of the vintage that this emerged as a big win (as we celebrated getting the Yountville Town Council to pass an ordinance banning gas powered leaf blowers)
23 October : 2001 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Villero
workman like wine. nebbiolo context but a wine that doesn’t feel present, like it is preoccupied and not interested in the conversation. perhaps a wine experiencing election anxiety. nothing really wrong but does not invite you to come back and keep talking. will try again after 3 November. or whenever the votes are finally official. hopefully this year.
24 October : 2015 Domaine Laguerre Côtes du Roussillon Le Ciste
a personal fave. honest earthy soulful wine. makes you appreciate what we have, just like the feeling a dirty & rowdy wine provides
26 October : 2014 François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Les Tuffeaux
my gosh, this was so good! nice cut. fresh as a daisy. although i have not eaten too many daisies. years to go on this one. apple and pear perhaps. this wine might not endear itself to sam the sham and the pharaohs* (or acolytes of same) as it is deficient from the mammoth perspective.
* of wooly bully fame
29 October : 1994 Zind-Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Goldert Vendange Tardive
roses roses roses. Z-H lost me at Olivier* but for the late harvest wines. savoury complexity. stunning. all about a super fit with straight forward apple galette, no ice cream (or treble)
* we entered “favored guest” territory at The French Laundry in the early 2000s when we brought 1988 rieslings of Z-H Rangen and Trimbach CSH
29 October : 2000 Noël Verset Cornas
violets. typical syrah fruit profile. pristine clean if you will for Verset. light. dances the waltz rather than the twist. violets / floral, ripeness is the signature note, but certainly not jammy. bright fruit. warmth of 2000 vintage felt but not too pushy. tannins not in the photo. a 90 point wine that becomes 96 points after viewing the label. i still see his humble beatific smile when i chanced upon meeting him in Cornas 10 years ago (the trifecta day when i also was lucky to taste with JP Brun and Eric Texier). humdinger with unagi sushi**
i did not offer an aliquot to feed my cask of red wine vinegar
31 October : 2001 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato
typical nebbiolo fruit contours. sweet. sophisticated ambience that is Monprivato. tannins mostly resolved. delicious now but will offer more rewards in the future (because this is what people always say). bonafide winner. married superbly with braised garlic pasta topped with but a mere drizzling of a teaspoon of balsamico

** i get a kick when folks say this wine is great with “sushi". that’s like saying this wine is great with meat.
 
originally posted by Mark Anisman:
winereactionsarethenewtrend and a jay miller referencefirst. the jay miller reference
22 out (17 were drunk, 5 returned to rightful owner)
2 in (both gifts but i guess that has to be counted. but they were received after 8pm, so maybe they shouldn’t be counted?)

scores are inscribed in personal notes, but not here. the overall score average for these wines was 93. all wines purchased on release.

1 October : 2014 François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Franc de Pied Les Bournais
first time. more about a textural richness than feeling its chenin blancness. enjoyed but not pushed to wax memorably.
2 October : 2018 Dirty & Rowdy Mourvèdre Rodnick Farm
glou-glou wine needed to fend off the pervasive Damocles sword bearing of a Napa Valley inundated by the tactile smoke and imminent threat of the fires. Respite attained. All about shiny fruit and happiness.Not complex but not looking for that today. A joy.
4 October : 2001 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod / Barthod-Noëllat Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras
Assertive as one would anticipate in a wine both from les Cras and Barthod. Almost resolved primary structure and excellent wine that is reminiscent of John Mayall (room to move).
8 October : 2009 Domaine des Terres Dorées (Jean-Paul Brun) Fleurie
what’s not to love about a Brun wine. red fruits persist til the finish, and one would not guess as a fruity 2009.. Tannins present but remains balanced. Will be alive in 5 or even 10 years.
10 October : 1990 Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Spéciale La Migoua
dried fruit. warm vintage. not complex. basic risotto with duck stock and fennel sausage. works together like Lebron and Irving.
11 October : 2001 Carl Schmitt-Wagner Longuicher Maximiner Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett
such a pleasure. fresh. great balance. Charged with sadness as winery has left our world.
14 October : 2006 Simon Bize Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Fournaux
sweet but hard / lean. all about rustic fruit, not complex per se. very Savigny. Lovely with roast chicken with a duck stock / butter sauce infused with thyme.
16 October : 2010 Koehler-Ruprecht Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Kabinett trocken
regret to say memory fails a bit here. perhaps not memorable? but i always enjoy wines in this style and no exception here.
18 October : 2004 Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Vieilles Vignes Clos des Briords
not complex but soft lemon (not the acidy fresh lemon) and creamy. a delight. i would hazard a bet that this would be a wine david lillie might wish to bring in. i will send him a note advising him of same. a positive return on aging. although this fit the cuisine to a tee tonight, a more frisky and youthful version would rightfully seek other opportunities at the table and be as much as a success.
20 October : 2018 Hofgut Falkenstein Krettnacher Euchariusberg Riesling Kabinett Alte Reben
left me wanting a bit more acid. good wine that none the less dragged down the score average, but reflecting personal preference
22 October : 2007 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese #10
i am not a big fan of 2007 Mosel wines as i am a heat seeking missile for high acid wines, but the fruit was so beautiful and balanced in the context of the vintage that this emerged as a big win (as we celebrated getting the Yountville Town Council to pass an ordinance banning gas powered leaf blowers)
23 October : 2001 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Villero
workman like wine. nebbiolo context but a wine that doesn’t feel present, like it is preoccupied and not interested in the conversation. perhaps a wine experiencing election anxiety. nothing really wrong but does not invite you to come back and keep talking. will try again after 3 November. or whenever the votes are finally official. hopefully this year.
24 October : 2015 Domaine Laguerre Côtes du Roussillon Le Ciste
a personal fave. honest earthy soulful wine. makes you appreciate what we have, just like the feeling a dirty & rowdy wine provides
26 October : 2014 François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Les Tuffeaux
my gosh, this was so good! nice cut. fresh as a daisy. although i have not eaten too many daisies. years to go on this one. apple and pear perhaps. this wine might not endear itself to sam the sham and the pharaohs* (or acolytes of same) as it is deficient from the mammoth perspective.
* of wooly bully fame
29 October : 1994 Zind-Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Goldert Vendange Tardive
roses roses roses. Z-H lost me at Olivier* but for the late harvest wines. savoury complexity. stunning. all about a super fit with straight forward apple galette, no ice cream (or treble)
* we entered “favored guest” territory at The French Laundry in the early 2000s when we brought 1988 rieslings of Z-H Rangen and Trimbach CSH
29 October : 2000 Noël Verset Cornas
violets. typical syrah fruit profile. pristine clean if you will for Verset. light. dances the waltz rather than the twist. violets / floral, ripeness is the signature note, but certainly not jammy. bright fruit. warmth of 2000 vintage felt but not too pushy. tannins not in the photo. a 90 point wine that becomes 96 points after viewing the label. i still see his humble beatific smile when i chanced upon meeting him in Cornas 10 years ago (the trifecta day when i also was lucky to taste with JP Brun and Eric Texier). humdinger with unagi sushi**
i did not offer an aliquot to feed my cask of red wine vinegar
31 October : 2001 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato
typical nebbiolo fruit contours. sweet. sophisticated ambience that is Monprivato. tannins mostly resolved. delicious now but will offer more rewards in the future (because this is what people always say). bonafide winner. married superbly with braised garlic pasta topped with but a mere drizzling of a teaspoon of balsamico

** i get a kick when folks say this wine is great with “sushi". that’s like saying this wine is great with meat.
Click to expand...

or asking what red wines go with cheese.
 
originally posted by mark e:
originally posted by Mark Anisman:

2000 Noël Verset Cornas
humdinger with unagi sushi**
Click to expand...

'cmon. that's lunacy. Worst pairing ever.
Click to expand...

no, really. people ask for this combo given choices, and even a bonafide sushi chef loved this match
then again we are on the left coast.
austrian riesling would also work.
but japanese eel roasted and coated with a shoyu / mirin based sauce and topped with sansho is pretty dang umami baby. evn richer if you incorporate the oils that drip off the eel as it roasts.
perhaps you are worried about the fattiness? most commercial unagi comes farmed from places other than Japan. here i would agree with your shock of a reaction. but good Japamese eel from Japan is quite lean in comparison.
would be happy to offer this to you if you visit. will make other wines available so you leave happy. cpr also available if need be.
 
I am not mark e but I think the concern is for the sweet sauce, not the fat or the roast or any of the other wonderful things about kabayaki.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
I am not mark e but I think the concern is for the sweet sauce, not the fat or the roast or any of the other wonderful things about kabayaki.
Click to expand...

got it
Marico adds little if any sugar for her sauce. perhaps that is the problem with commercial unagi as they use higher amount of sugar? also, we occasionally source sauce from hole in the wall Kyoto eel restaurants (where mostly people buy to go, not sit, and the restaurant makes their version) and maybe they use less sugar as well. i know they incorporate the eel drippings which is probably lacking in commercial offerings.
regardless, when people (including native Japanese gourmands) have had wine options they would invariably reach for the syrah refill. a wine in the more traditional style (Gonon / Verset)is what i almost always profer, and that might offset the sweetness. and maybe the guests could care less and just say give me that Verset! I have not tried wines like Allemand / Benetiere, perhaps because they are not my favorites and guests get the best. Texier wines have not been thrown in to the coliseum floor. and maybe nontraditional syrah that uses new oak, imparting dueling sweetness, is part of the problem.
it's complicated
have you had bad outcomes matching kabayaki and traditionally made syrah?
your ideas of a good match?
 
originally posted by Mark Anisman:
4 October : 2001 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod / Barthod-Noëllat Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras
Assertive as one would anticipate in a wine both from les Cras and Barthod. Almost resolved primary structure and excellent wine that is reminiscent of John Mayall (room to move).
Click to expand...

Thanks for this note. In my mind, this was a really hard wine in that Barthod idiom but looking at my records, I haven't had a bottle in 9-10 years. I'll put this on the mental list to try soon.

originally posted by Mark Anisman:
20 October : 2018 Hofgut Falkenstein Krettnacher Euchariusberg Riesling Kabinett Alte Reben
left me wanting a bit more acid. good wine that none the less dragged down the score average, but reflecting personal preference
Click to expand...

That aligns with my impression of the #12 from 2018. I did find that a second bottle seemed to have more acid verve, but that could be user variability.

originally posted by Mark Anisman:
23 October : 2001 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Villero
workman like wine. nebbiolo context but a wine that doesn’t feel present, like it is preoccupied and not interested in the conversation. perhaps a wine experiencing election anxiety. nothing really wrong but does not invite you to come back and keep talking. will try again after 3 November. or whenever the votes are finally official. hopefully this year.
Click to expand...

There have been rumors of widespread issues with 2001 Barolo in terms of disappointment. Personally, I was disappointed with a recent 1999 Brovia Ca'Mia. Maybe that's just a tough few years?
 
originally posted by Mark Anisman:

10 October : 1990 Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Spéciale La Migoua
dried fruit. warm vintage. not complex. basic risotto with duck stock and fennel sausage. works together like Lebron and Irving.
Click to expand...

Like Lebron and Kyrie. Hmm, so it started out as a good pairing, then fell apart? Is Lebron the stock or the sausage? Kyrie definitely seems like sausage, so I'm thinking Lebron is the stock. Stock is more important in risotto, even if it's a little boring and hard to root for.
 
originally posted by VLM:

There have been rumors of widespread issues with 2001 Barolo in terms of disappointment. Personally, I was disappointed with a recent 1999 Brovia Ca'Mia. Maybe that's just a tough few years?
Click to expand...

Which 2001 Baroli have been tagged with disappointment? A while back, I heard of some issues with Monprivato, but that seemed specific to G Mascarello. I've had a couple, a Cappelllano and Conterno-Fantino, that have been fine.
 
VLM : "Thanks for this note. In my mind, this was a really hard wine in that Barthod idiom but looking at my records, I haven't had a bottle in 9-10 years. I'll put this on the mental list to try soon."
I am a huge Barthod fan so I am more accepting of structure. It certainly could still be too hard for your tastes.

Jim Hanlon : "Like Lebron and Kyrie. Hmm, so it started out as a good pairing, then fell apart? Is Lebron the stock or the sausage? Kyrie definitely seems like sausage, so I'm thinking Lebron is the stock. Stock is more important in risotto, even if it's a little boring and hard to root for."
risotto lives or dies by the stock.
but i was more surmising that Lebron is to the risotto like Kyrie is to the wine. Risotto was the star that night, with the wine a very serviceable accompaniment.
 
originally posted by Mark Anisman:
Marico adds little if any sugar for her sauce. perhaps that is the problem with commercial unagi as they use higher amount of sugar?
Click to expand...
Oh, yes.

i know they incorporate the eel drippings which is probably lacking in commercial offerings.
Click to expand...
I never thought of it that way before but this is what a traditional Western gravy-maker would do, too.

have you had bad outcomes matching kabayaki and traditionally made syrah?
your ideas of a good match?
Click to expand...
I don't think I've ever tried kabayaki with syrah. I usually have eel as part of a sushi dinner and go with beer or sake.

I like syrah flavors a lot so I prefer simple fare to go with. Roast meats are best, lamb or beef, seasoning can be salt, garlic, lemon, rosemary/thyme, umami things; avoid the mint relatives. Charcuterie can work -- mostly salty meat! -- but the seasoning can be tricksy. Seedy breads can work but for carbs as for meats, simpler is better.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by Mark Anisman:
Marico adds little if any sugar for her sauce. perhaps that is the problem with commercial unagi as they use higher amount of sugar?
Click to expand...
Oh, yes.

i know they incorporate the eel drippings which is probably lacking in commercial offerings.
Click to expand...
I never thought of it that way before but this is what a traditional Western gravy-maker would do, too.

have you had bad outcomes matching kabayaki and traditionally made syrah?
your ideas of a good match?
Click to expand...
I don't think I've ever tried kabayaki with syrah. I usually have eel as part of a sushi dinner and go with beer or sake.

I like syrah flavors a lot so I prefer simple fare to go with. Roast meats are best, lamb or beef, seasoning can be salt, garlic, lemon, rosemary/thyme, umami things; avoid the mint relatives. Charcuterie can work -- mostly salty meat! -- but the seasoning can be tricksy. Seedy breads can work but for carbs as for meats, simpler is better.
Click to expand...

Agreed that roast meats work well with Syrah. My favorite is venison but lamb is also very good. For really old Syrah, I might tone it down a bit to game birds.

Mark Lipton
 
appreciate the input.
i should mention the driving force behind pairing a red wine with a creature from the lagoon.
our born and bread Japanese in-laws hew to a meat free diet yet love wines from Burgundy and Northern Rhone.
so it has become an interesting challenge to find pairings that satisfy the soul and not assault the taste buds!
 
originally posted by Mark Anisman:
appreciate the input.
i should mention the driving force behind pairing a red wine with a creature from the lagoon.
our born and bread Japanese in-laws hew to a meat free diet yet love wines from Burgundy and Northern Rhone.
so it has become an interesting challenge to find pairings that satisfy the soul and not assault the taste buds!
Click to expand...

Appreciate the folksy way you qualify your Japanese in-laws.
 
Must confess I can't imagine a situation where I'd have an opportunity to test an unagi-Cornas pairing because however swimmingly it might work (hee hee) I've never had an all-unagi dinner, & can't imagine it working terribly well with much *else* from the sushi bar.
 
originally posted by Mark Anisman:
so it has become an interesting challenge to find pairings that satisfy the soul and not assault the taste buds!
Click to expand...
Ah. Hm. My experience with red wine + fish is that it is tannins in the wine that make the trouble. So, pinot noir wines are an easy win for any full-flavored fish.

Ankimo should work with red wine, I think.

Lots of people say kabayaki and cabernet.

But there's more to Japanese cuisine than sushi!

Does belle mere like tempura? Kabocha, taro, etc starchy things, can work with red wines.

I don't recall the name but Japanese cuisine has an equivalent of the Korean pah jung -- everybody has a latke! -- works with bright and light reds.

I once had gingko nut yaki. Very robust flavors.
 
"I don't recall the name but Japanese cuisine has an equivalent of the Korean pah jung -- everybody has a latke! "
okonomoyaki?

"red wine + fish is that it is tannins in the wine that make the trouble"
but these are older syrah wines where the tannins have had time to congregate.

and the only grape that i know i can not drink with sushi (standard varieties like maguro / bonito / hamachi etc) is pinot noir. the wine quickly takes on a metallic taste so i drink the wine before sushi.
 
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