Jayson Cohen
Jayson Cohen
The Euchariusberg Alte Reben Gisela (AP 8) is remarkably consistent from year to year, having a clear profile in the 2016-2019 stretch that I know. After writing this up, I went back to my January 2019 note on the 2017, and it’s uncanny how similar it is to my impressions of this 2019.
Sponti, subtle lime notes on opening need a couple days of air but the compelling midpalate tension is immediately unmistakable. After two days of air, and some shaking in the interim, it has less searing intensity than the 2016 and 2017, but I think it’s only because the acid-extract-ripeness balance is already better integrated. The aromatics and retronasal impression flit between Granny Smith apple skin and fresh cut apple, pine cone (that musky spiciness!), lime marmalade and zest (if you’ve had Robert Lambert’s citrus marmalades, think that dialed down a notch), and a hint of licorice and petrichor. Needless to say almost, it’s tangy. It’s also fabulous, and I have a slight preference for the shape of this wine today compared to last week’s #11 Herrenberg Feinherb. But it’s splitting hairs.
Sponti, subtle lime notes on opening need a couple days of air but the compelling midpalate tension is immediately unmistakable. After two days of air, and some shaking in the interim, it has less searing intensity than the 2016 and 2017, but I think it’s only because the acid-extract-ripeness balance is already better integrated. The aromatics and retronasal impression flit between Granny Smith apple skin and fresh cut apple, pine cone (that musky spiciness!), lime marmalade and zest (if you’ve had Robert Lambert’s citrus marmalades, think that dialed down a notch), and a hint of licorice and petrichor. Needless to say almost, it’s tangy. It’s also fabulous, and I have a slight preference for the shape of this wine today compared to last week’s #11 Herrenberg Feinherb. But it’s splitting hairs.