TN: Covid-19 era wines (September and October 2020)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
At home. Mostly.

Enologica Valtellinese (Veronelli Collection) 1978 Valtellina Superiore Riserva "Vigna Paradiso" - color as if it were 10 years old, immediately pulling the cork there is a blast of red fruit, then the bottle stink of having been "in" too long, juicy acidity, roses, new sneakers, very beautiful; 1 hr: the roses are coming on; 2 hr: even stronger and purer, the roses are now floating over a teeny little base of black dirt or road tar but not really; 3 hr: the last sip is still full-flavored though the acidity is getting slowly lost in silk, a dream

Clos de la Bonnette 2018 VDP Collines Rhodaniennes VV Syrah - textbook but well-done textbook, juicy young fruity syrah, there is some N Rhone spice here, a good glug and works with my steak and peppers

Jadot 2010 Pernand-Vergelesses "Clos de la Croix de Pierre" - I just noticed that this wine is a 1er Cru (En Caradeux); still a vivid red, fruity but more currants than strawberries, excellent perfume and purity, tannins are fine, acidity is a tad soft, perfect with a very rare tenderloin and potatoes gratin

Texier, Martin 2018 Brezeme "Vigne de la Carriere" - slow-o for two hours... first whiff... yes, Rhone syrah... first taste... Brezeme!, has the distinctive midpalate, this is young and juicy and a shows a little umami, Papa may have kept the old vines but it's still all I can do to save some for tomorrow; day 2: shutting down, nowhere near as vivid or floral as yesterday, pout

Gouges 2014 Nuits-St-Georges "Clos des Porrets" - Day 1 (Sun): tight and not forthcoming on opening but, with air, the pinosity returns; it's quite pure and austere; and it only gives so much... the mid-palate hits a wall, it just goes all flat and unaromatic and vegetal (not green, but like a popsicle stick), really weird; Day 4 (Wed): in a thermos at a picnic, still pure and austere but a little more glyceral and a teeny tad fruitier, still not at all sweet or frooty, rather nice in the 'tall dark stranger' kind of way

Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo 2006 Ghemme "Breclemae" - world's tightest cork but the wine is perfect: earthy, cranberry with a whiff of raspberry florality, still some good grip

Brovia 2006 Barolo "Garblet Sue" - decanted 3 hrs before dinner, beautiful, tar and roses, still a bit grippy, and it acts like it would like someday to develop VA (but it hasn't yet); darkfruit and cranberry redness, very yum; day 3: even more gorgeous, full-throttle tease... the tannins have relented just a bit and all the fruit and fruit-related flavors are flashing through my mouth (camphor, plum tomatoes, saline, raspberries), a great show

Quinta do Vesuvio 1994 Vintage Port - bought on release, this is outstanding: not too sweet but hints at brown sugar and caramel, still plenty plummy, tannins are gone or hiding, the wine is still fresh and even has some thrust; many years to go before this reaches any kind of nuts-and-cedar stage

Le Rocher des Violettes 2019 VdF Chenin Blanc - gulpable, clean, well-chosen ripeness, unmistakeable

Croft 1960 Vintage Port - lavender (and quite a bit of it), not perky but some acidity still there, this wine is old but not maderized, sweet and viscous of course, but not figgy-plummy, rather more tawny (it is the color of a medium cup of tea, maybe mixed with a little rooibos), a whiff of sesame, perhaps the best 1960 port I've ever had, thank you to Dale for the gracious share; followed over 4 days: the lavender fades after a day and a slight bitter note of brown sugar appears on the last day but the wine remains sound throughout

La Cantina di Cuneaz Nadir 2016 Rosso Vallee d'Aoste "Badebec" - upon opening, Windex... but, praise Bacchus, that dissipates in about 3 minutes; mountain wine: lightweight, raspberry fading into cranberry, with rocks, a whiff of dark chocolate comes and goes, drunk over 5 days and remains pretty the whole time, great QPR too

Eminence Road 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon "Elizabeth's Vineyard" - 11.6%, day 1: lean, fresh, nice; day 3: losing freshness, maybe it needs a drop more sulfur?, rather more bronze than bright now, slightly stinky

Travaglini 2012 Gattinara - 500 ml; yer basic alto piemonte: cran-cherry, whet your appetite acidity, a whiff of pine and roses, good wine but colors within the lines

Ch. Yvonne 2014 Saumur-Champigny - 12.5%, clean, crisp, noticeable citrussy twang (maybe like a Meyer lemon or a puckery tangerine), not the mineral depth of a Baudry wine but plenty gluggable; Day 3: losing body, becoming too acidic

Ch. Simone 2012 Palette Rose - lost my TN but I recall being disappointed

Dr. Konstantin Frank 2019 Rkatsiteli - citrussy and clean and bright, there are some light florals and/or face powder, you wouldn't confuse it for riesling but it sure tastes like some kind of kin

Glug Wines:

La Antigua Clasico 2012 Rioja Crianza - glug rioja
Pagliarese 2016 Chianti Classico - glug chianti
Van Volxem 2017 Rotschiefer Riesling Kabinett - glug riesling
Lagar de Costa 2019 Albarino - 13%, glug albarino

ETA: The bottle of Ch.Yvonne was also a gift from Dale. Thanks again!
 
Thanks for the interesting notes. Not a ton of overlap with my drinking, but adjacent.

originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Jadot 2010 Pernand-Vergelesses "Clos de la Croix de Pierre" - I just noticed that this wine is a 1er Cru (En Caradeux); still a vivid red, fruity but more currants than strawberries, excellent perfume and purity, tannins are fine, acidity is a tad soft, perfect with a very rare tenderloin and potatoes gratin

I've gotten out of the Jadot business as space is limited and I was finding them a bit boring. This, along with the Savigny "Dominode" were always really outstanding values, IMO.

originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo 2006 Ghemme "Breclemae" - world's tightest cork but the wine is perfect: earthy, cranberry with a whiff of raspberry florality, still some good grip

Good to hear! I have some surrounding vintages and have seen this in the marketplace but haven't tried it yet. Sounds very much in my wheelhouse.

originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Brovia 2006 Barolo "Garblet Sue" - decanted 3 hrs before dinner, beautiful, tar and roses, still a bit grippy, and it acts like it would like someday to develop VA (but it hasn't yet); darkfruit and cranberry redness, very yum; day 3: even more gorgeous, full-throttle tease... the tannins have relented just a bit and all the fruit and fruit-related flavors are flashing through my mouth (camphor, plum tomatoes, saline, raspberries), a great show

I didn't have this wine but did have a 2006 Rocche over the summer and found it outstanding but still needing some time (it motioned towards closed as the evening wore on).

originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Quinta do Vesuvio 1994 Vintage Port - bought on release, this is outstanding: not too sweet but hints at brown sugar and caramel, still plenty plummy, tannins are gone or hiding, the wine is still fresh and even has some thrust; many years to go before this reaches any kind of nuts-and-cedar stage

I also bought this on release and have fond memories but my last bottle has been gone for a while. A reminder to keep an eye out because this can pop up at reasonable pricing.

originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Ch. Yvonne 2014 Saumur-Champigny - 12.5%, clean, crisp, noticeable citrussy twang (maybe like a Meyer lemon or a puckery tangerine), not the mineral depth of a Baudry wine but plenty gluggable; Day 3: losing body, becoming too acidic

Saumur Blanc or Saumur-Champigny? The note reads like the former but is labeled as the latter.

originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Ch. Simone 2012 Palette Rose - lost my TN but I recall being disappointed

You know, I often find these wines disappointing unless, of course, they're awesome. It is just one of those domains.

One general comment, you seem to have much better luck with wines multiple days out from opening than I do. What's the secret? I tend to cork them up and put them in the fridge letting them warm prior to consuming. Generally, I don't find that red wines perform well on subsequent days.
 
originally posted by VLM:

One general comment, you seem to have much better luck with wines multiple days out from opening than I do. What's the secret? I tend to cork them up and put them in the fridge letting them warm prior to consuming. Generally, I don't find that red wines perform well on subsequent days.

Maybe it's something in the NC air. I have had the same reaction to Jeff's notes, but just attributed it to palate differences.
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Ch. Yvonne 2014 Saumur-Champigny - 12.5%, clean, crisp, noticeable citrussy twang (maybe like a Meyer lemon or a puckery tangerine), not the mineral depth of a Baudry wine but plenty gluggable; Day 3: losing body, becoming too acidic

Saumur Blanc or Saumur-Champigny? The note reads like the former but is labeled as the latter.
The red. It was vividly tart, a surprise and a nice contrast to the cab franc (though I might not like my franc that way all the time).

originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Ch. Simone 2012 Palette Rose - lost my TN but I recall being disappointed

You know, I often find these wines disappointing unless, of course, they're awesome. It is just one of those domains.
I'm finding that out now. I've had a couple great bottles; these are the first I've bought.

One general comment, you seem to have much better luck with wines multiple days out from opening than I do. What's the secret? I tend to cork them up and put them in the fridge letting them warm prior to consuming. Generally, I don't find that red wines perform well on subsequent days.
I do just what you do: cork + fridge. Rahsaan may be right that it's palate differences.
 
originally posted by MarkS:
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

...vegetal (not green, but like a popsicle stick)...

That's a new one! Not sure I follow, but nice to hear about Gouges.

Spirulina Stick?
Never tasted that. I mean the tongue-depressor-shaped piece of soft wood that remains after you've eaten a popsicle. You've had one in your mouth, you know the taste: plain, wet wood.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by MarkS:
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

...vegetal (not green, but like a popsicle stick)...

That's a new one! Not sure I follow, but nice to hear about Gouges.

Spirulina Stick?
Never tasted that. I mean the tongue-depressor-shaped piece of soft wood that remains after you've eaten a popsicle. You've had one in your mouth, you know the taste: plain, wet wood.

You know what's worse than that? Those little flat wooden 'spoons' you would get with your ice cream cup at camp or school or church. If you scraped them the right way...Yuck!
 
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