winereactionsarethenewtrend : a smattering of December with a dry January and a few bonus February selections

Mark Anisman

Mark Anisman
Yes, it is that time again. or a tad plus due.

An origin story.
San Jose CA upbringing. west of us was primarily prune orchards (cue the raven). recall Mrs Brown in 3rd grade edifying us to the fact that the Santa Clara County was home to 1/3 of the world’s prune production mid 20th century (who was I to dispute).
present for the first smog alert in 1971 just moments prior to college matriculation.
these were the days when the best wine stores (at least in San Jose) could be a place like Safeway. Our local Safeway had given full rein to their wine buyer and even then i knew it was quite broad in representing the wine world. and i remember him as a very warm and thoughtful “teacher”.
my parents did not drink more than a bottle or two every month, but they did support local wineries. so my high school nights found me sampling a fair amount of Ridge. nice way to start. we endeavored to continue the tradition with starting our kid with Prüm, whom she now familiarly refers to as “JJ”. looks like a win.

20 December : 2015 Domaine Laguerre Côtes du Roussillon Blanc Le Ciste
a go to wine. refreshing minerality. raage from CT says it best : “Mix singulier de Grenache blanc accompagné de Roussanne/Marsanne (et de Maccabeu & Rolle plus traditionnel pour ce coin en altitude de la vallée de l'Agly).” herbal nuttiness with fruit not being a significant aspect of this libation.

26 December : 2005 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel
a blessing from Bettylu and Lou Kessler. we miss their good-natured and gracious companionship as Lou has moved forward from this life and BL has moved to Rancho Palos Verdes. botrytis, botrytis, botrytis. enjoyed but you got to like botrytis. big, bold and broad (the killer B’s). i venture that making wine in Wachau vineyards near the Danube is a lot tougher these days (at least for GV and riesling).

27 December : 2009 Eric Texier Côtes du Rhône-Brézème Vieille Serine Domaine de Pergaud
a last bottle. eine schande. Syrah, yes it is. black fruit and earthy savoriness. a delight. would like 6 more bottles to draw upon.

31 December : 2012 Caves Duplessis Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
a note of gratitude here for Jamie Wolfe of Chambers Street Wines in New York City. A wonderful vinous emporium that deserves to be better known. He egged me on to begin purchasing with the 2010 vintage release and I have not looked back. Precise and balanced. Good depth and acidity throughout. Mineral with citrus fruit. A winner.

1 January : 2001 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel
well, this was a mistake. Dry January but we start out with a sweet wine. heavens to Murgatroyd! Powerful but balanced. honey of course tropical and peachy keen. very fine.

2 January : 2001 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras
a dry wine. so good, so dependable. Burgundy desire extinguished with opening a bottle from Barthod. Fruit fine that has lost some character but still vibrant. typical leaner 2001 cut for me. cherry with some earthiness. tannins integrated. always a pleasure.

12 January : 2002 Domaine François Cotat Sancerre Les Monts Damnés
shootskis. I don’t think Cotat will fit into the dry January scheme. Mario Bianco alpine honey. sweet. not fruity. grassiness if you look for it

14 January : 2010 Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Cuvée 4
apple and lemon served on a mildly richer than usual Muscadet base. Cut can still be appreciated. Minerals as expected. Satisfaction to the hilt. Muscadet has been referred to as a poor person’s Chablis, but a wine like this is so good it does not need reference to other regions. with wines like this from Pépière / Luneau-Papin / Bregeon etc etc, perhaps soon we will be saying this Chablis is as good as Muscadet!

16 January : 1995 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage - Langdon - Shiverick
paired with mac and cheese. missing on the depth. just post Gerard wine and/or vintage and/or Langdon-Shiverick? still quite good but i would plump for the Texier above re: a Rhone syrah fix..

18 January : 1990 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel
a send off drink for daughter prior to return to college. She appreciated. what can I say. just fantastic and so humble a wine. just disappears and then you realize how beautiful it was. and you check to make sure you have more. has lost a lot of its’ GKA sweetness.
I give up on a dry January.

20 January : 2009 Domaine de la Pépière Clos de Morines Ch“teau Thébaud
see 14 January summary.

23 January : 2009 Luneau-Papin Le "L” d’Or
see 20 January note.

24 January : 2002 Domaine Michel Lafarge Pommard 1er Cru Les Pèzerolles
solid ripe red fruit depth with the Pommard rough and tough. good tannin resolution. 2 points on a 3 point scale.

29 January : 1990 Ch“teau Cheval Blanc
rich, sweet and dense. plums and berries. cabernet franc notes beautifully in the background. 3 points on a 4 point scale

31 January : 2005 François Pinon Vouvray Cuvée Tradition
nice background honey / minerals with white fruit. sweeter style as befits the 2005 vintage. acidity holds it together. a good and honest wine, true to the François we had the good fortune to meet once upon a time. 4 points on a 4 point scale because of fond François memories.

2 February : 1993 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Clos St. Jacques
my gosh, we are drinking well post 3 Nov. pure penetrating strawberries. complexity befitting grand cru Burgundy. acid evident but not detracting, and actually would be great for cutting the fat in a main course. can't get mo’ better. 5 points on a 4 point scale.

5 February : 2011 Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Engabrunner Stein
a bit watery but still a nice GV expression. a Bill Mayer treasure, and one treasures having been good friends with Bill.

7 February : 2019 Eric Bordelet Poiré Granit
pretty dang good. clean, simple and efficient like the Tampa Bay offense. ending with a winner.
 
Mark, nice call on the Rousseau St Jacques '93. Consistent excellence from a topnotch producer from an acclaimed vintage that is aging well.

. . . . . . Pete
 
originally posted by Mark Anisman:
27 December : 2009 Eric Texier Côtes du Rhône-Brézème Vieille Serine Domaine de Pergaud
a last bottle. eine schande. Syrah, yes it is. black fruit and earthy savoriness. a delight. would like 6 more bottles to draw upon.

Man, I hear you. I didn't buy enough and am down to my last bottle. I didn't make that mistake in subsequent vintages.

originally posted by Mark Anisman:
2 January : 2001 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras
a dry wine. so good, so dependable. Burgundy desire extinguished with opening a bottle from Barthod. Fruit fine that has lost some character but still vibrant. typical leaner 2001 cut for me. cherry with some earthiness. tannins integrated. always a pleasure.

I *almost* opened this tonight, but opted for a wine a I have a couple more bottles of. According to my notes, I haven't had a bottle in 8-9 years. I'll put one of my remaining bottles in the queue.

originally posted by Mark Anisman:
14 January : 2010 Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Cuvée 4
apple and lemon served on a mildly richer than usual Muscadet base. Cut can still be appreciated. Minerals as expected. Satisfaction to the hilt. Muscadet has been referred to as a poor person’s Chablis, but a wine like this is so good it does not need reference to other regions. with wines like this from Pépière / Luneau-Papin / Bregeon etc etc, perhaps soon we will be saying this Chablis is as good as Muscadet!

If this isn't blasphemy, some of these special cuvées have a Raveneau like texture, IMO.

originally posted by Mark Anisman:
16 January : 1995 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage - Langdon - Shiverick
paired with mac and cheese. missing on the depth. just post Gerard wine and/or vintage and/or Langdon-Shiverick? still quite good but i would plump for the Texier above re: a Rhone syrah fix..

Hmmm. My bottles are Langdon-Shiverick and I think this is one of the last great "old school" vintages of Chave. I've been saving my last bottle in anticipation of fireworks.

originally posted by Mark Anisman:
29 January : 1990 Ch“teau Cheval Blanc
rich, sweet and dense. plums and berries. cabernet franc notes beautifully in the background. 3 points on a 4 point scale

I had this wine when it was really young, maybe 1995, and it blew me away then. I have a bottle from my father (same as the 1990 Lafite) and have high hopes.

originally posted by Mark Anisman:
31 January : 2005 François Pinon Vouvray Cuvée Tradition
nice background honey / minerals with white fruit. sweeter style as befits the 2005 vintage. acidity holds it together. a good and honest wine, true to the François we had the good fortune to meet once upon a time. 4 points on a 4 point scale because of fond François memories.

I never did put enough Pinon away, I just drank them. I'd like to think I'd make different decisions now, but I still mostly drink them because they're delicious.

originally posted by Mark Anisman:
7 February : 2019 Eric Bordelet Poiré Granit
pretty dang good. clean, simple and efficient like the Tampa Bay offense. ending with a winner.

Bordelet Granit can make most things better. [heart emoji]
 
1995 Chave was really just spectacular old school Chave last time I had it about three years ago now. I can’t help but think yours was an off bottle. The way this showed in 2018, it was on a decades long plateau of greatness.
 
originally posted by Mark Anisman:
16 January : 1995 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage - Langdon - Shiverick
paired with mac and cheese. missing on the depth. just post Gerard wine and/or vintage and/or Langdon-Shiverick?

that's a multiple choice question

(a) it's a great wine
(b) it's a shadow of pre-94 vintages
(c) all of the above
(d) this Chablis is as good as Muscadet
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
You and I will continue to disagree about this:

originally posted by Pavel Tchichikov:
originally posted by Mark Anisman:
16 January : 1995 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage
(b) it's a shadow of pre-94 vintages

Pay no attention to my friend here; he is just trying to get me to open something from 85-91 :-)
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
You and I will continue to disagree about this:

originally posted by Pavel Tchichikov:
originally posted by Mark Anisman:
16 January : 1995 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage
(b) it's a shadow of pre-94 vintages

I'm with you. I think that 1995 and maybe 1998 are as good as any non-1990 Chave rouge that I've had. I've never had a perfect bottle of the 1978 but from every other vintage (I think) between then and 2000. The 1990 remains the greatest Chave rouge I've ever had and one of my formative red wine experiences.

I can see, however, how something like the 1985 might really appeal to sasha in ways it never has to me.

It's all pretty academic at this point as I don't think I'll be reliving any of the old Chave verticals I used to.

I am curious about what is going on now, I haven't had a new vintage in a while, ever since I was run off by my perception of a stylistic change in 1999 and then dramatic price increases.
 
FWIW, my Zoom group was blinded on 2002 Chave rouge about a month ago. Perhaps because it was from an off-vintage, it seemed more old-school Chave than new. We were all quite taken by it.
 
originally posted by Mark Anisman:
...Chambers Street Wines in New York City. A wonderful vinous emporium that deserves to be better known.

Fully agree on the excellence of the emporium. But I assumed they were as well-known as could be in the wine retail world!
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Mark Anisman:
...Chambers Street Wines in New York City. A wonderful vinous emporium that deserves to be better known.

Fully agree on the excellence of the emporium. But I assumed they were as well-known as could be in the wine retail world!

i was pulling people's corks on that one....
 
originally posted by Mark Anisman:
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Mark Anisman:
...Chambers Street Wines in New York City. A wonderful vinous emporium that deserves to be better known.

Fully agree on the excellence of the emporium. But I assumed they were as well-known as could be in the wine retail world!

i was pulling people's corks on that one....

Another softball.
 
originally posted by Brad Kane:
Agreed with others that love the '95 Chave. My favorite post 1990 vintage.

If you would have told me 20 years ago I'd be aligned with Brad and in opposition to sasha over a wine, I would never have believed you. But, I guess that's what 2021 looks like.
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Brad Kane:
Agreed with others that love the '95 Chave. My favorite post 1990 vintage.

If you would have told me 20 years ago I'd be aligned with Brad and in opposition to sasha over a wine, I would never have believed you. But, I guess that's what 2021 looks like.

Ditto.

But there it is.

To my recollection I have had all of the Chave Hermitages (from other people) from 1994-2001 within the last three years as well as 1983, 1986, 1989, and 1990 over the last 5 years. I have also worked hard to force my brain not to have any biases when tasting these wines. I taste a difference in the 1999 and later wines. 1998 was still fabulous and old school, still young.
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Brad Kane:
Agreed with others that love the '95 Chave. My favorite post 1990 vintage.

If you would have told me 20 years ago I'd be aligned with Brad and in opposition to sasha over a wine, I would never have believed you. But, I guess that's what 2021 looks like.

Ditto.

But there it is.

To my recollection I have had all of the Chave Hermitages (from other people) from 1994-2001 within the last three years as well as 1983, 1986, 1989, and 1990 over the last 5 years. I have also worked hard to force my brain not to have any biases when tasting these wines. I taste a difference in the 1999 and later wines. 1998 was still fabulous and old school, still young.

good to know. so it sounds like a Langdon-Shiverick issue or just an off bottle. Jeb Dunnuck has written "Chave has seen a long succession of generations, with Gerard Chave, who was born in 1935, slowly beginning to hand over the reins to his brilliant son, Jean-Louis (born in 1968), in the late 1980s and early 1990s. "
so perhaps the transition had completed after the 1994 vintage.... but Jean-Louis was still finding his way to develop his own style.
 
originally posted by Mark Anisman:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Brad Kane:
Agreed with others that love the '95 Chave. My favorite post 1990 vintage.

If you would have told me 20 years ago I'd be aligned with Brad and in opposition to sasha over a wine, I would never have believed you. But, I guess that's what 2021 looks like.

Ditto.

But there it is.

To my recollection I have had all of the Chave Hermitages (from other people) from 1994-2001 within the last three years as well as 1983, 1986, 1989, and 1990 over the last 5 years. I have also worked hard to force my brain not to have any biases when tasting these wines. I taste a difference in the 1999 and later wines. 1998 was still fabulous and old school, still young.

good to know. so it sounds like a Langdon-Shiverick issue or just an off bottle. Jeb Dunnuck has written "Chave has seen a long succession of generations, with Gerard Chave, who was born in 1935, slowly beginning to hand over the reins to his brilliant son, Jean-Louis (born in 1968), in the late 1980s and early 1990s. "
so perhaps the transition had completed after the 1994 vintage.... but Jean-Louis was still finding his way to develop his own style.

so what is the langdon shiverick issue? certainly they don't dictate to chave in how the wine is made.
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Brad Kane:
Agreed with others that love the '95 Chave. My favorite post 1990 vintage.

If you would have told me 20 years ago I'd be aligned with Brad and in opposition to sasha over a wine, I would never have believed you. But, I guess that's what 2021 looks like.

If it makes you feel better you can remember that you are also aligned with Jayson and with me.
 
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