Impressions January 2021, Part I

VLM

VLM
We engaged in a dry-ish January from the 4th to the 15th. Wow was that bad timing. I generally get what I need out of dry January in about 10 days but it was brutal this year. I was convinced there would be violence during the election but I guess this was the time. It would be easy to laugh at the radicalization of the right in the US because they're just so stuipid, but it ends up just being sad. What a bunch of losers and especially their enablers in the Republican party. I've never had a lower opinion of my fellow citizens. Anyway, we had some wine for the first couple of days and it was mostly good.

2017 Lingua Franca Chardonnay Estate - USA, Oregon (1/1/2021)
Very correct. Tastes and feels like a Chardonnay a Burgundian would make in Willamette. Maybe I didn't give it a fair shake and it's possible it needs a few years but it was good rather than terribly interesting. (88 points)

2018 Domaine des Hauts Baigneux Touraine-Azay-le-Rideau Blanc Chenin - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Touraine-Azay-le-Rideau (1/1/2021)
This wine tends to show the burnt sugar note that Chenin can have in addition to the fruits and such. I'm not sure if it holds and rs but the texture has an oily quality that makes it feel like it does (in a good way). As it warms up, it becomes more fragrant with flowers, herbs and beeswax. A neat wine and a nice addition to our Chenin stable. (91 points)

2018 Ch“teau de Fosse-Seche Saumur Arcane - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (1/1/2021)
Pretty Chenin fruit with a waxy and mineral tensed palate. It's been a while since I've tried this wine and the color is a darker yellow than I would have thought. It's a mix of honeyed and more linear notes. Interesting and one I will be keeping an eye on (but I sort of feel that way about a lot Loire Chenin these days. Did Pascaline slip something in my glass the last time I was at Racines?). Seems like it'll unwind a bit and in the short term the floral notes that emerged later might be a bigger part and it might stretch out. (91 points)

2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Montefico - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (1/3/2021)
Delicious, classic Barbaresco that is probably still on the upswing but I enjoyed it for the balance of fruit and structure. There was a juiciness there that made it easy to drink and enjoy. Maybe the darker side of Barbaresco a touch. It seems like a fine time to drink one but if you are looking for all the umami, tertiary characteristics you'll need to wait a while longer. (93 points)

2013 Umberto Fracassi Barolo Mantoetto - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (1/3/2021)
Yes! I had a few corked bottles from this stash and am always worried. Also, it was pretty tight when I opened it but a couple of hours of air really did the trick. Like the Produttori Montefico it was paired with, it is about the balance of fruit and structure. This wine shows more herbal, gamy nuance that the Produttori and a real leather whip on the finish after the macerated cherries. Really the epitome of Cherasco Barolo. Worth checking on now if you're curious. I think it's prime is still a few years from now and I might leave some for 15+ just to see, but I like wines that show like this on the young side. (92 points)
 
originally posted by VLM:
Interesting and one I will be keeping an eye on (but I sort of feel that way about a lot Loire Chenin these days)...

Just these days?

As the folks at CSW know all too well, lots of new producers and experimentation in the Loire. And Chenin is the king.

Fosse-Sèche has been around for a little while, but can't say that I've followed them all that closely. Would love to follow them and more, but there just aren't enough weekends per year!

(I do dry weekdays every week)
 
Interesting nebbioli, Monkey. The Produttori issued a terrific set of wines in 2008; good to hear they are developing nicely. Never heard of Fracassi but there are a lot of small makers these days.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by VLM:
Interesting and one I will be keeping an eye on (but I sort of feel that way about a lot Loire Chenin these days)...

Just these days?

As the folks at CSW know all too well, lots of new producers and experimentation in the Loire. And Chenin is the king.

Fosse-Sèche has been around for a little while, but can't say that I've followed them all that closely. Would love to follow them and more, but there just aren't enough weekends per year!

(I do dry weekdays every week)

Dry weekdays would certainly cut into my ability to experiment and discover. I often feel like my cellar is too focused and not broad enough and if I only had a couple bottles to open a week it would be even worse!

There are so many interesting Loire Chenins now in a myriad of styles that I've had a blast trying wines that I'm either circling back around to or are completely new to me. This wealth of choice means that almost every wine is fungible so you don't have to worry so much about "missing" something, there will always be something else. Previously, I don't think that wa sthe case. That is, there were fewer wines that were truly excellent.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Interesting nebbioli, Monkey. The Produttori issued a terrific set of wines in 2008; good to hear they are developing nicely. Never heard of Fracassi but there are a lot of small makers these days.

I've only been sporadically buying Produttori wines over the last decade or so, so have neither depth nor breadth, but this was certainly a fine wine. If I stumble upon any at good prices and trustworthy provenance, I might jump on them.

By the way, the following
originally posted by VLM:
Really the epitome of Cherasco Barolo.
was me being cheeky. Fracassi is the only producer in Cherasco, so must be the epitome. Definitely worth trying. Approachable now and has a cool herbal edge to it that I like. Also, very cool IDDT podcast episode. h/t Levi.
 
originally posted by VLM:

There are so many interesting Loire Chenins now in a myriad of styles that I've had a blast trying wines that I'm either circling back around to or are completely new to me...Previously, I don't think that was the case. That is, there were fewer wines that were truly excellent.

That is probably true. There has been a lot of new energy in the Loire over the past few decades, and skills have probably improved. I can't follow it all because of the earlier point, but it is nice to see!
 
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