TN: The Virtual Tasting #11 (February 25, 2021)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Don & Melissa, Eden, Jay, Jeff, Scott & Anne-Marie, Seth, Victor; and Jayson

Telling The Difference

On this night, unlike any other jeebus, we will drink until we can't tell the difference between "Cursed be Points" and "Blessed be Terroir".
---

The first four blind wines.

Wine J1 - In proper Talmudic fashion, Scott begins, "I will make a wild-ass wrong guess: chardonnay from Burgundy." Jay, who is wily in the ways of the unknown wines (because he provided them) responds that Scott has failed in his endeavor. Ah, so, then, it is White Burgundy! Scott persists, "It is not Chablis." Jay replies, "Incorrect." Ho ho!

The apparatus of my alleles tell me the wine is from a warm year as it is definitely sweet ("Pineappley" - Melissa and Victor). Finally, Jayson, the one person who is not tasting the wine, identifies the maker... Dom. G. Duplessis 2017 Chablis 1er "Montee de Tonnerre". Reb Joe would be proud of quixotic us.

Midrash... Day 3: The wine is recognizably Chablis, though I could believe if you told me it was a good Muscadet; gently herbal and seashelly in the nose; similar, if a bit flat, in the mouth; not noticeably minerally/chalky; full-flavored, I'd be happy to own some of this. Gematria: 13%.

Wine J2 - This, we know, is not pinot. I sense a whiff of lactic in the finish that nobody else gets. The wine is smoky, spicy, root beery, with lots of red fruit, glimmers of citrus and Christmas spice. Seth described it as "forward and juicy but has good garbled handwritten note" and guesses that it is an old California field blend. Jay says no; in fact, this is the oldest plot of this grape in the world(!). We guess around (grenache? valdiguie?) but never say cinsault... Birichino 2016 Cinsault "Bechthold Vineyard" Vignes Centenaires. We chastise Jay for being a bit unfair to call it so literally because there's a lot of cinsault floating around most old California field blends.

Midrash... Day 3: amazing, New World-y, spicy, it really does have the cinsault equivalent of pinosity; mixed red berry palate drifts towards sweet syrup and resin but just as slyly turns to roots-in-wet-earth in a long finish; even more of a buy than the first wine. Gematria: 12%.

Wine J3 - leather, tobacco, a very slight barnyard smell on top of the dark red fruit. "Right Bank?" I venture; nope. "Barbera!" says Seth (you had to be there). Medium-weight, potent and persistent, a bit sweet, very clean (outdoorsy smell notwithstanding!), we eventually pin it to 1970 ... Ch. Rausan-Segla 1970 Margaux.

Midrash... Day 3: About the same, this just cannot be 50 years old! Not sure that there are any tannins here, if so, they are of the most delicate make; not just wow but wow-wow.

Wine J4 - VA and sewage in the nose. Alas, we are not yet drunk enough not to notice. The palate is better, clean, rough, and rugged. I try everything not to identify this as some woebegone Piedmont wine, but it is... Aldo Conterno 1999 Barolo "Cicala".

Midrash... Day 3: The nose is still slightly garbagey but now more a distraction than a head-jerk away. The palate is still clean, robust, slightly drying/grainy on my tongue, and juicy long into the finish. But I honestly cannot say that this tastes like nebbiolo; it might just as well be a California red blend with good acidity. Was this wine always Californiated or is this the spoilage talking?
---

The next four blind wines are named for the most-popular flavors of hamentaschen.

Apricot - "Salty, bloody taste", said Melissa of the apricot hamentaschen wine. Jay touches the hem of the immortal in his apricot hamentaschen wine and lunges forward, all the way to Dunn, Cab Sauv, Howell Mountain. Bravo, Jay! We never guess the year because this stuff is basically immortal... Dunn 1993 Cabernet Sauvignon "Howell Mountain"

Midrash... Day 3: Clearly CalCab, not Bordeaux, because there is great purity at the expense of complexity... but what purity! Like there is no roof of my mouth, the black cherry-cran fruit with a hint of basil (or rosemary) just floats up into my nose and my brain. The acidity is sturdy without pinching my tongue. Another wow wine and it lingers on my breath for minutes afterward.

Prune - Oranges! Tangerines? Soft. Clear, just a hint of yellow age. Someone suggests maybe demi-sec sweetness but I think it's less. There is a lot of age here, too. "A little tropical but not pineapple" -Melissa. "No sharp edges here" -Victor. A few desultory guesses are made before the reveal... J.J. Christoffel Erben 2001 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett.

Midrash... Day 3: No development, just slowly subsiding. Still nice to drink. Gematria: 2 602 041 005 02, 8.5%

Poppy - OK, this is full-on sweet, also fairly transparent but much heartier than Prune, also quite more beautiful and graceful than Prune, the wine has scents of bay leaf, lime, pork, and is incredibly more-ish... A. Merkelbach 2001 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese, Gematria: 2 602 055 015 02, 8%, fuder 15/01.

Midrash... Day 3: Consistent with the first day. The Merkelbach brothers, Alfred and Rolf, are octogenarians and, after running the estate by themselves for all these years, they are finally stepping back. Johannes Selbach and his team were asked to "assist".

Date - Also full-sweet. "Sweeter than the last one" -Jay. "But not quite dessert: no glycerin" -Anne-Marie. "Even more acidity" -Don. This wine is browning and a sip reveals a ton of botrytis adding its own flavors on top of the pit-fruity riesling. Delicate it ain't but very delicious... Willi Schaefer 2001 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese, Gematria: 2 583 154 09 02, 8%.

Happy Purim!

hamantaschen.jpg
 
Aldo Conterno 1999 Barolo "Cicala"

I had this about a month ago. Not a very successful wine, but our sample of it was full of VA that was hard to overlook, and rather thin and shrill IIRC. Didn't take tasting notes, but interestingly didn't taste like your descriptions.
 
originally posted by Odd Rydland:
Aldo Conterno 1999 Barolo "Cicala"

I had this about a month ago. Not a very successful wine, but our sample of it was full of VA that was hard to overlook, and rather thin and shrill IIRC. Didn't take tasting notes, but interestingly didn't taste like your descriptions.

I had bought 2 bottles of this. When I opened the first one it was even more objectionable than the second turned out to be.

Ah well, the other three I opened made up for it.
 
Many, many thanks to FL Jim and Jim Hanlon for the initial recommendations on Birichino.

This thread contains an interesting discussion on how the vines probably survived Prohibition:
Such a delightful wine.

Everyone was shocked both that the RS was as old as 1970 and that the wine was so much better than the estate's reputation for that era. Wonderful old Bordeaux. But what's up with the bottle shape? Weird.

I let all the praise Duplessis garners on this forum coerce me into buying a mixed half case from Dan Kravitz's recent offer. I regretted it immediately after placing the order (I don't need more wine) right up until I tasted the first bottle. Now my regrets are more along the lines of maybe it should have been a full case. The plain village Chablis is a delight right now as well.

The Dunn was a real treat. Powerful and deep and was still firing on all cylinders the next day.

All three rieslings were good but my favorite was the first - the 2001 JJC UWK. But then I'm generally a sucker for the vineyard. Lovely, delicate and complex.

There was a plurality that when speaking of real hamantaschen poppy is the best.

My offering at the beginning was "we should drink until we cannot tell the difference between SQN and DRC".

No barbera was harmed in the drinking of these wines.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:


Wine J2 - This, we know, is not pinot. I sense a whiff of lactic in the finish that nobody else gets. The wine is smoky, spicy, root beery, with lots of red fruit, glimmers of citrus and Christmas spice. Seth described it as "forward and juicy but has good garbled handwritten note" and guesses that it is an old California field blend. Jay says no; in fact, this is the oldest plot of this grape in the world(!). We guess around (grenache? valdiguie?) but never say cinsault... Birichino 2016 Cinsault "Bechthold Vineyard" Vignes Centenaires. We chastise Jay for being a bit unfair to call it so literally because there's a lot of cinsault floating around most old California field blends.

Midrash... Day 3: amazing, New World-y, spicy, it really does have the cinsault equivalent of pinosity; mixed red berry palate drifts towards sweet syrup and resin but just as slyly turns to roots-in-wet-earth in a long finish; even more of a buy than the first wine. Gematria: 12%.

Pleased to see that you enjoyed this wine. One of my favorites from California these days, and one of the best examples of "New" California wine (ironic, I know, given the vineyard is almost 150 years old). I think of it as a California analog to Cru Beaujolais.
 
originally posted by Jim Hanlon:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:


Wine J2 - This, we know, is not pinot. I sense a whiff of lactic in the finish that nobody else gets. The wine is smoky, spicy, root beery, with lots of red fruit, glimmers of citrus and Christmas spice. Seth described it as "forward and juicy but has good garbled handwritten note" and guesses that it is an old California field blend. Jay says no; in fact, this is the oldest plot of this grape in the world(!). We guess around (grenache? valdiguie?) but never say cinsault... Birichino 2016 Cinsault "Bechthold Vineyard" Vignes Centenaires. We chastise Jay for being a bit unfair to call it so literally because there's a lot of cinsault floating around most old California field blends.

Midrash... Day 3: amazing, New World-y, spicy, it really does have the cinsault equivalent of pinosity; mixed red berry palate drifts towards sweet syrup and resin but just as slyly turns to roots-in-wet-earth in a long finish; even more of a buy than the first wine. Gematria: 12%.

Pleased to see that you enjoyed this wine. One of my favorites from California these days, and one of the best examples of "New" California wine (ironic, I know, given the vineyard is almost 150 years old). I think of it as a California analog to Cru Beaujolais.

Have you tasted any of the other producers from that Cinsault vineyard?
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:
originally posted by Jim Hanlon:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:


Wine J2 - This, we know, is not pinot. I sense a whiff of lactic in the finish that nobody else gets. The wine is smoky, spicy, root beery, with lots of red fruit, glimmers of citrus and Christmas spice. Seth described it as "forward and juicy but has good garbled handwritten note" and guesses that it is an old California field blend. Jay says no; in fact, this is the oldest plot of this grape in the world(!). We guess around (grenache? valdiguie?) but never say cinsault... Birichino 2016 Cinsault "Bechthold Vineyard" Vignes Centenaires. We chastise Jay for being a bit unfair to call it so literally because there's a lot of cinsault floating around most old California field blends.

Midrash... Day 3: amazing, New World-y, spicy, it really does have the cinsault equivalent of pinosity; mixed red berry palate drifts towards sweet syrup and resin but just as slyly turns to roots-in-wet-earth in a long finish; even more of a buy than the first wine. Gematria: 12%.

Pleased to see that you enjoyed this wine. One of my favorites from California these days, and one of the best examples of "New" California wine (ironic, I know, given the vineyard is almost 150 years old). I think of it as a California analog to Cru Beaujolais.

Have you tasted any of the other producers from that Cinsault vineyard?

I've had the Turley in multiple vintages. It's in a similar, low key style and wonderful juxtaposition to the rest of their lineup (I always smile when I see that wine on the Chambers Street web site). I've also had the Sandlands Lodi Cinsault, which I think is all from Bechthold, even though the wine isn't vineyard designated. Similar to the Turley, perhaps a little more velvety. I have a bottle of Two Shepherds, but haven't tried it yet. I like the Birichino best of what I've had.
 
originally posted by Jim Hanlon:
originally posted by Florida Jim:
originally posted by Jim Hanlon:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:


Wine J2 - This, we know, is not pinot. I sense a whiff of lactic in the finish that nobody else gets. The wine is smoky, spicy, root beery, with lots of red fruit, glimmers of citrus and Christmas spice. Seth described it as "forward and juicy but has good garbled handwritten note" and guesses that it is an old California field blend. Jay says no; in fact, this is the oldest plot of this grape in the world(!). We guess around (grenache? valdiguie?) but never say cinsault... Birichino 2016 Cinsault "Bechthold Vineyard" Vignes Centenaires. We chastise Jay for being a bit unfair to call it so literally because there's a lot of cinsault floating around most old California field blends.

Midrash... Day 3: amazing, New World-y, spicy, it really does have the cinsault equivalent of pinosity; mixed red berry palate drifts towards sweet syrup and resin but just as slyly turns to roots-in-wet-earth in a long finish; even more of a buy than the first wine. Gematria: 12%.

Pleased to see that you enjoyed this wine. One of my favorites from California these days, and one of the best examples of "New" California wine (ironic, I know, given the vineyard is almost 150 years old). I think of it as a California analog to Cru Beaujolais.

Have you tasted any of the other producers from that Cinsault vineyard?

I've had the Turley in multiple vintages. It's in a similar, low key style and wonderful juxtaposition to the rest of their lineup (I always smile when I see that wine on the Chambers Street web site). I've also had the Sandlands Lodi Cinsault, which I think is all from Bechthold, even though the wine isn't vineyard designated. Similar to the Turley, perhaps a little more velvety. I have a bottle of Two Shepherds, but haven't tried it yet. I like the Birichino best of what I've had.
Pretty much my take on that vineyard.
Best, jim
 
christoffel 2001 wines are all simply brilliant. really truly brilliant.

what is the disordered opinion on sandlands? i bought some 2-3 years ago. i thought the chenin was nice but not really interesting, as was the trousseau. a hard road to travel given such good examples from the Jura and Loire so i take it as another chenin expression but not one where i feel the pull of gravity.

but the mataro was an adulterated mess. it was so bad Marico refused to drink it and I banished it from my cellar tracker data. just a bad bottle?
 
originally posted by Mark Anisman:
christoffel 2001 wines are all simply brilliant. really truly brilliant.

what is the disordered opinion on sandlands? i bought some 2-3 years ago. i thought the chenin was nice but not really interesting, as was the trousseau. a hard road to travel given such good examples from the Jura and Loire so i take it as another chenin expression but not one where i feel the pull of gravity.

but the mataro was an adulterated mess. it was so bad Marico refused to drink it and I banished it from my cellar tracker data. just a bad bottle?

I've generally had good experiences with the Sandlands Mataro, so your bottle is probably an outlier. I agree with you on the Chenin and Trousseau. There's nothing wrong with either, but the wines I've tasted just aren't compelling to someone familiar with good French versions of the varieties. I like their Cinsault, Syrah, and red wine blend (conceived as an hommage to Musar) more. Have some Chard, but haven't tried it yet.
 
originally posted by Mark Anisman:
christoffel 2001 wines are all simply brilliant. really truly brilliant.

what is the disordered opinion on sandlands? i bought some 2-3 years ago. i thought the chenin was nice but not really interesting, as was the trousseau. a hard road to travel given such good examples from the Jura and Loire so i take it as another chenin expression but not one where i feel the pull of gravity.

but the mataro was an adulterated mess. it was so bad Marico refused to drink it and I banished it from my cellar tracker data. just a bad bottle?

I've wanted to like the Sandlands, but I just haven't. The Chenin, especially, I find sees too much oak. Admittedly, I'm sensitive to that.

Fwiw, I'm also not a fan of any of the Birichino that I've tried.
 
originally posted by Brad Kane:
originally posted by Mark Anisman:
christoffel 2001 wines are all simply brilliant. really truly brilliant.

what is the disordered opinion on sandlands? i bought some 2-3 years ago. i thought the chenin was nice but not really interesting, as was the trousseau. a hard road to travel given such good examples from the Jura and Loire so i take it as another chenin expression but not one where i feel the pull of gravity.

but the mataro was an adulterated mess. it was so bad Marico refused to drink it and I banished it from my cellar tracker data. just a bad bottle?

I've wanted to like the Sandlands, but I just haven't. The Chenin, especially, I find sees too much oak. Admittedly, I'm sensitive to that.

Fwiw, I'm also not a fan of any of the Birichino that I've tried.
]

To my palate, the Cinsault is the best Birichino wine by some distance. Their others are okay, but not nearly so exciting.
 
originally posted by Jim Hanlon:
originally posted by Brad Kane:
originally posted by Mark Anisman:
christoffel 2001 wines are all simply brilliant. really truly brilliant.

what is the disordered opinion on sandlands? i bought some 2-3 years ago. i thought the chenin was nice but not really interesting, as was the trousseau. a hard road to travel given such good examples from the Jura and Loire so i take it as another chenin expression but not one where i feel the pull of gravity.

but the mataro was an adulterated mess. it was so bad Marico refused to drink it and I banished it from my cellar tracker data. just a bad bottle?

I've wanted to like the Sandlands, but I just haven't. The Chenin, especially, I find sees too much oak. Admittedly, I'm sensitive to that.

Fwiw, I'm also not a fan of any of the Birichino that I've tried.
]

To my palate, the Cinsault is the best Birichino wine by some distance. Their others are okay, but not nearly so exciting.

I have liked the Sandlands that I've had and really admire Tegan Passalacqua, though I don't really know him.

I actively like Birichino Besson Grenache and the Peter Martin Ray Cabernet.
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Jim Hanlon:
originally posted by Brad Kane:
originally posted by Mark Anisman:
christoffel 2001 wines are all simply brilliant. really truly brilliant.

what is the disordered opinion on sandlands? i bought some 2-3 years ago. i thought the chenin was nice but not really interesting, as was the trousseau. a hard road to travel given such good examples from the Jura and Loire so i take it as another chenin expression but not one where i feel the pull of gravity.

but the mataro was an adulterated mess. it was so bad Marico refused to drink it and I banished it from my cellar tracker data. just a bad bottle?

I've wanted to like the Sandlands, but I just haven't. The Chenin, especially, I find sees too much oak. Admittedly, I'm sensitive to that.

Fwiw, I'm also not a fan of any of the Birichino that I've tried.
]

To my palate, the Cinsault is the best Birichino wine by some distance. Their others are okay, but not nearly so exciting.

I have liked the Sandlands that I've had and really admire Tegan Passalacqua, though I don't really know him.

I actively like Birichino Besson Grenache and the Peter Martin Ray Cabernet.

I haven't had the Birichino Cab. And I can't say I'm the person to speak to Grenache, as I'm not usually a fan.
 
originally posted by Jim Hanlon:
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Jim Hanlon:
originally posted by Brad Kane:
originally posted by Mark Anisman:
christoffel 2001 wines are all simply brilliant. really truly brilliant.

what is the disordered opinion on sandlands? i bought some 2-3 years ago. i thought the chenin was nice but not really interesting, as was the trousseau. a hard road to travel given such good examples from the Jura and Loire so i take it as another chenin expression but not one where i feel the pull of gravity.

but the mataro was an adulterated mess. it was so bad Marico refused to drink it and I banished it from my cellar tracker data. just a bad bottle?

I've wanted to like the Sandlands, but I just haven't. The Chenin, especially, I find sees too much oak. Admittedly, I'm sensitive to that.

Fwiw, I'm also not a fan of any of the Birichino that I've tried.
]

To my palate, the Cinsault is the best Birichino wine by some distance. Their others are okay, but not nearly so exciting.

I have liked the Sandlands that I've had and really admire Tegan Passalacqua, though I don't really know him.

I actively like Birichino Besson Grenache and the Peter Martin Ray Cabernet.

I haven't had the Birichino Cab. And I can't say I'm the person to speak to Grenache, as I'm not usually a fan.

Re: Grenache, neither am I, which is why it might be noteworthy.

The Cabernet is very bright and interesting.
 
originally posted by Mark Anisman:
christoffel 2001 wines are all simply brilliant. really truly brilliant.

that they might be, but then you will run out of vocabulary should you encounter their 97s or 98s. Might have to whip out the good old M Broadbent sixth star.
 
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