Impressions January 2021, Part II

VLM

VLM
Old favorites with mixed results and one of the most bizarre wine experiences I can remember.

2008 Rhys Syrah Skyline Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains (1/15/2021)
This was really good. Aromatically complex notes of mineral and olive brine to go with the fruit. Steph really liked it, which was interesting. At plateau but I have no idea what the time frame is here. My last bottle. (91 points)

2012 Azienda Agricola San Giuseppe Brunello di Montalcino Stella di Campalto Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino (1/15/2021)
OK, so this may have been a bit of a mistake. A mismatch with the food. I don't have much experience with Stella di Campalto Brunello so I wasn't prepared for the elegance here where a bigger expression of Sangiovese would have worked better. Really haunting aromatics but tightly coiled. I think I'll give it another 3-5 years before I check in again. Intriguing wine, it's too bad about the pricing but worth trying. I find this to be a really unique Brunello with a lot of potential. (91 points)

2016 Azienda Agricola Caparsa Chianti Classico Caparsa - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (1/15/2021)
This was its consistently excellent self. Tracking with other bottles. I liked how the rusticity showed in this one. (91 points)

2006 Ch“teau Pradeaux Bandol - France, Provence, Bandol (1/16/2021)
Oh my, isn't this something? Opened to go with cassoulet from Rue Cler as I don't have a single bottle of Cahors or Madiran. Given that I've referred to Caparsa as the Pradeaux of Chianti it was nice to open this the next day and get some confirmation of that. Noble rusticity is still the best descriptor. This is a mid-weight version of Pradeaux Bandol with all of the Provençal notes, as well as the distinctive tree bark one I get specifically here, one would expect with a red fruited profile and strong but well proportioned tannin, not spiky nor a brick wall. I do wonder whether there is enough fruit to outlast the tannin but prior experience has shown that this generally happens. It hasn't yet developed that lavender note that can be so haunting in these wines. I don't see any reason not to open one now if you have the proper meal for it although it may be immortal. I've never had a Pradeaux that seemed over the hill, only spoiled bottles due to exogenous causes. (92 points)

2019 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett trocken "Mutter Anna" #1 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (1/16/2021)
A bit more reticent than the first bottle but I think I may not have enough of this. Could end up being thrilling. (91 points)

2016 Domaine Charvin Côtes du Rhône (Le Poutet) - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône (1/17/2021)
I have to say, I was disappointed with this bottle. It has always been such a reliable wine and it was very good when younger. I guess I expected more of the spice cake and cherry compote notes I love from Grenache but they weren't here. (87 points)

2016 Domaine Charvin Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape (1/17/2021)
Another disappointment. Rather boozy and unrefined. More depth of fruit than the CDR. What was supposed to be a really fun comparison didn't turn out that way. In general, my hit rate with Charvin hasn't been great in the last few years. I seem to need to catch them at exactly the right time to really love them (and when I do, I do) but I don't follow them closely enough to be able to do that consistently. I don't know, 3-5 years until the next one? (89 points)

2016 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Le Clos Guillot - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon (1/18/2021)
Consistent with my last bottle but a little bit airier. Dark berry fruit smashed on limestone with hints of herbs and tobacco. Floral top note. Violets maybe? Then fine grained, limestone inflected tannin. Perfectly fun to drink now although it's apogee is several years down the road. (92 points)

2007 Bernard Faurie Hermitage Bessards-Le Méal - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (1/20/2021)
This was corked but I'm posting a note anyway because the most amazing thing happened. I got the hint of corkiness when we opened it and I was totally bummed but once it's there, you can't unsmell it. The interesting part is that I tried the recorked bottle from the counter the next day and at first, I couldn't perceive any cork. Meaty dark fruit and licorice with a leathery snap. I freaked out and Steph noticed the lack of cork too when I shoved it up to her nose in excitement. Alas, with a bit more exposure to air, the TCA came back. I think this is a testament to the awesomeness that must be lying in wait under the TCA but it was a totally weird experience that was a first. I've never had the perception of TCA go away and then come back like that. Fascinating. (NR/flawed)

2014 Ghostwriter Syrah Santa Cruz Mountains - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains (1/20/2021)
Not as good as other bottles I've had which were silky but poised Syrah loaded with fruit but not exceedingly ripe or our of shape (the alcohol is ~13%). This bottle was just a bit clumsy with a perception of wood that one can sometimes get in Syrah even if it isn't there. FWIW, Steph liked it more than I did. (89 points)
 
originally posted by VLM:

2016 Domaine Charvin Côtes du Rhône (Le Poutet) - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône (1/17/2021)
I have to say, I was disappointed with this bottle...

2016 Domaine Charvin Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape (1/17/2021)
Another disappointment. Rather boozy and unrefined...

Blatant Loesberg bait.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by VLM:

2016 Domaine Charvin Côtes du Rhône (Le Poutet) - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône (1/17/2021)
I have to say, I was disappointed with this bottle...

2016 Domaine Charvin Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape (1/17/2021)
Another disappointment. Rather boozy and unrefined...

Blatant Loesberg bait.

Everything is bait to someone.
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:
I’ve had good luck with Rhys, Skyline Syrahs. But I’ve not had one at 13, so your note helps.
Best, jim

This was definitely what I was hoping for when I bought it but I have figured out (rather expensively) that the wines generally weren't really for me.
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Florida Jim:
I’ve had good luck with Rhys, Skyline Syrahs. But I’ve not had one at 13, so your note helps.
Best, jim

This was definitely what I was hoping for when I bought it but I have figured out (rather expensively) that the wines generally weren't really for me.

Rhys generally or this one?
 
originally posted by VLM:


2006 Ch“teau Pradeaux Bandol - France, Provence, Bandol (1/16/2021)
Oh my, isn't this something? Opened to go with cassoulet from Rue Cler as I don't have a single bottle of Cahors or Madiran.

funny because i started buying Madiran and Cahors wines about 5-10 years ago for just that express purpose...

thank you for the impressions, MSA
 
Glad to see a positive note on Stella di Campalto because in 2017 we drank a 2008 Brunello and a 2010 Brunello Riserva and found them both fine, but oaky, which pissed me off as a disservice to the fruit. Maybe she dialed the oak down in 2012.
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Florida Jim:
I’ve had good luck with Rhys, Skyline Syrahs. But I’ve not had one at 13, so your note helps.
Best, jim

This was definitely what I was hoping for when I bought it but I have figured out (rather expensively) that the wines generally weren't really for me.

Rhys generally or this one?

Generally. Space is at a premium, so they had to go.
 
originally posted by Mark Anisman:
originally posted by VLM:
2006 Ch“teau Pradeaux Bandol - France, Provence, Bandol (1/16/2021)
Oh my, isn't this something? Opened to go with cassoulet from Rue Cler as I don't have a single bottle of Cahors or Madiran.

funny because i started buying Madiran and Cahors wines about 5-10 years ago for just that express purpose...

thank you for the impressions, MSA

I should probably do the same. Cayrou, Haut Monplaisir, and Cèdre (and probably others) are available locally. It says Montus is in the state, but not with a distributor I work with.

Any recommendations?

#impressionsforeveryone
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
Glad to see a positive note on Stella di Campalto because in 2017 we drank a 2008 Brunello and a 2010 Brunello Riserva and found them both fine, but oaky, which pissed me off as a disservice to the fruit. Maybe she dialed the oak down in 2012.

My issues with oak are much more subdued than many other folks here and I've never really found it prominent in any of the Stella wines I've tried. If I had a gripe, it's that the wines are very particular and I think you need to plan around them to get the most out of them. Other Sangiovese based wines in our rotation (well, this would never get in the rotation due to price and scarcity) bend to the occasion.
 
originally posted by VLM:
>2007 Bernard Faurie Hermitage Bessards-Le Méal - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (1/20/2021)
...a testament to the awesomeness that must be lying in wait...
Glad to read this. I have a few bottles of '07 Faurie sleeping.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by VLM:

2016 Domaine Charvin Côtes du Rhône (Le Poutet) - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône (1/17/2021)
I have to say, I was disappointed with this bottle...

2016 Domaine Charvin Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape (1/17/2021)
Another disappointment. Rather boozy and unrefined...

Blatant Loesberg bait.

And I will answer. The CdR goes through a closed period usually somewhere between. 3 and 5. I would have expected the 16 to be exiting it, so maybe you just don't like the wine that much, but I'd give it a couple of more years. I just drank my last 05 over the weekend and it was still alive and well.

CdP's in general close anywhere between 3 and 7 years. 5 is the perfect age not to drink them. Although Charvin denies that wines close (they just change, he says), this particular change is usually to be avoided. I try to keep my hands of his wines in big years until they are nine or ten, though cooler years like 11, 13 and 14 can show well now.
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Florida Jim:
I’ve had good luck with Rhys, Skyline Syrahs. But I’ve not had one at 13, so your note helps.
Best, jim

This was definitely what I was hoping for when I bought it but I have figured out (rather expensively) that the wines generally weren't really for me.

Rhys generally or this one?

Generally. Space is at a premium, so they had to go.

Don’t forget I’ve seen your house. You are swimming in space compared to all the NYers here. :). But I get your drift.
 
i am afraid i do not drink widely from southwest France, let alone Cahors / Madiran. cassoulet occurs thrice yearly here and guests ask for, nay demand, an eclectic collection of wines for the table (dare i mention Bernhard Ott's grüner veltliner as championed by the late great Bill Mayer).

i usually introduce one southwest France wine because you should and knowing this region's wines will not be brought by guests hankering to down Syrah and Burgundy.

Montus is a fave
Clos la Coutale was okay but maybe a weak vintage. none recent
Ch“teau de Perron. fine.
Causse Marines good and fit the bill.
Domaine Ilarria another fave
Domaine Arretxea recent purchase from CSW, but not tasted yet. but they were quite excited

not all Cahors / Madiran clearly....

if had to pick one wine for today, i would choose Ilarria. happy wine

and sometimes there are no reds served but the quota is met with a sweet white wine that is really really delicious.
Domaine Cauhapé, Ch“teau Lapuyade and Caucaillau come to mind.

MSA
 
originally posted by Mark Anisman:
i am afraid i do not drink widely from southwest France, let alone Cahors / Madiran. cassoulet occurs thrice yearly here and guests ask for, nay demand, an eclectic collection of wines for the table (dare i mention Bernhard Ott's grüner veltliner as championed by the late great Bill Mayer).

i usually introduce one southwest France wine because you should and knowing this region's wines will not be brought by guests hankering to down Syrah and Burgundy.

Montus is a fave
Clos la Coutale was okay but maybe a weak vintage. none recent
Ch“teau de Perron. fine.
Causse Marines good and fit the bill.
Domaine Ilarria another fave
Domaine Arretxea recent purchase from CSW, but not tasted yet. but they were quite excited

not all Cahors / Madiran clearly....

if had to pick one wine for today, i would choose Ilarria. happy wine

and sometimes there are no reds served but the quota is met with a sweet white wine that is really really delicious.
Domaine Cauhapé, Ch“teau Lapuyade and Caucaillau come to mind.

MSA

Where is Mike Bassman when you need him to chime in? He was the Cahors King of Queens back in the day.
 
From Cahors, I like Cayrou/Gamot/Clos St. Jean (Famille Jouffreau), Cosse-Maisonneuve, Combel La Serre (Louis/Dressner import), and Cedre.

And from Madiran, I'm into Chateau d'Aydie and Montus. Generally speaking, producers in Madiran are more enamored of new oak than in Cahors - but there's plenty of that in Cahors, too.

From Irouléguy, for me Ilarria and Arretxea are tops. Brana's whites are outstanding. Kermit Lynch used to import Domaine Etxegaraya, whose franc-de-pied Cuvée Lehengoa was the greatest of all red Irouléguy and one of my all-time favorite wines, but the domaine went downhill and KL stopped importing years ago. I'm still sad about it.
 
originally posted by Zachary Ross:
From Cahors, I like Cayrou/Gamot/Clos St. Jean (Famille Jouffreau), Cosse-Maisonneuve, Combel La Serre (Louis/Dressner import), and Cedre.

Cayrou is separate from Gamot now and I don't know Clos St. Jean but those old Cayrou and Gamot were really something.

I like Combel La Serre and they are available locally, I should have mentioned them.

I liked the Cosse-Maisonneuve I tried more than a decade ago, but they are elusive for me now.

And from Madiran, I'm into Chateau d'Aydie and Montus. Generally speaking, producers in Madiran are more enamored of new oak than in Cahors - but there's plenty of that in Cahors, too.

Liek everyone else, I tried the Montus and Bouscassé back in the day. All of my old Montus is gone, but I may have left a couple bottles at a friends house in France, if I ever get back there. I think they had the same winemaker?

I don't know Chateau d'Aydie. I think that Berthoumieu comes in to the market from time to time, I think Charles Neal imports it. I have no memory of it, but I'm sure I've tried it. Anyone have thoughts?

From Irouléguy, for me Ilarria and Arretxea are tops. Brana's whites are outstanding. Kermit Lynch used to import Domaine Etxegaraya, whose franc-de-pied Cuvée Lehengoa was the greatest of all red Irouléguy and one of my all-time favorite wines, but the domaine went downhill and KL stopped importing years ago. I'm still sad about it.

I haven't gone down the Basque French rabbit hole in a while. Thanks for those names, I know Brana and Ilarria but will keep an eye out for the other producer.

I think I'll probably need to revisit this thread next winter or maybe I shoudl seek out a sampler to set aside. I think that cassoulet season is over for me until then.
 
originally posted by Mark Anisman:
i am afraid i do not drink widely from southwest France, let alone Cahors / Madiran. cassoulet occurs thrice yearly here and guests ask for, nay demand, an eclectic collection of wines for the table (dare i mention Bernhard Ott's grüner veltliner as championed by the late great Bill Mayer).

i usually introduce one southwest France wine because you should and knowing this region's wines will not be brought by guests hankering to down Syrah and Burgundy.

Montus is a fave
Clos la Coutale was okay but maybe a weak vintage. none recent
Ch“teau de Perron. fine.
Causse Marines good and fit the bill.
Domaine Ilarria another fave
Domaine Arretxea recent purchase from CSW, but not tasted yet. but they were quite excited

not all Cahors / Madiran clearly....

if had to pick one wine for today, i would choose Ilarria. happy wine

and sometimes there are no reds served but the quota is met with a sweet white wine that is really really delicious.
Domaine Cauhapé, Ch“teau Lapuyade and Caucaillau come to mind.

MSA

I don't drink widely from the region either, but maybe that can be next winter's (or pandemic's) project.
 
originally posted by VLM:
Liek everyone else, I tried the Montus and Bouscassé back in the day. All of my old Montus is gone, but I may have left a couple bottles at a friends house in France, if I ever get back there. I think they had the same winemaker?
Yes, Alain Brumont.
 
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