Late is better than never.
2018 Domaine Gramenon Côtes du Rhône L'Elementaire - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône (1/21/2021)
Spice and grilled Provençal herbs over berry and cherry fruit. Dusty tannins frame the finish. Exactly what I want CDR to be. The only whinge is that I feel like I've had bottles with a touch more exuberance to the fruit. (89 points)
2016 Domaine du Collier Saumur Blanc - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (1/21/2021)
Consistent with my last bottle except maybe this showed even younger. There is a kiss of wood which may be a detraction for others but I find it perfectly in place. This is a dense ball of fruit encased in minerals with an outer coating of beeswax. You almost have to chew the minerals on the finish. I think aged versions of this will be genius. I hope I have enough to keep me from drinking them all before they get there. (92 points)
2008 Sylvie Esmonin (Michel et Fille) Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (1/22/2021)
Consistent with the trajectory that was evident from my last bottle in late 2018. This still screams Gevrey, with that earthy, animal-mineral dark fruits. There may be a touch more elegance and everything may be a bit more spread out. I think it is just shy of really unfurling into its best self. Maybe that's just a year or two from now. (92 points)
2014 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Cailles - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru (1/23/2021)
While this is a bit of a baby, I wanted a young Burgundy and Chevillon Cailles almost always shows well. This had a really supple texture with wood spice framing the myriad red fruit, which was a bit clenched on itself. It has that herbal/fruit thing that Tanzer calls medicinal reserve. Destined to be another in a long line of excellent Chevillon Cailles given a few more years to unfurl. I think 3-5 years will show marked improvement and maybe put it squarely in an opportune window. (91 points)
2015 Brendan Stater-West Saumur Les Chapaudaises - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (1/23/2021)
My first stab at a Brendan Stater-West with even a little bit of age. This may have been his first vintage with this wine. This shows a sweet tart style of Chenin with a nice dose of mineral tension. It lacks a middle to bring things together in a cohesive whole; however, this was promising enough that I might buy a couple of bottles of the current vintage to lay down to see what happens. (90 points)
2013 Arnot-Roberts Cabernet Sauvignon Montecillo Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County (1/24/2021)
Ouch. This did not want to be opened at all. Really a throwback wine. Reminded me of mountain Cabernet from the 1980s. Lots of things going on besides fruit but mostly a wall of tannin. Didn't ever budge. Certainly the raw material for excellence. (90 points)
2018 Ferme de la Sansonnière (Mark Angeli) Les Gelinettes - France, Vin de France (1/24/2021)
After being kicked in the teeth by the Arnot-Roberts this was a bouncy mouthful of joyful Cabernet, but Sauvignon, from Anjou. It's been years since I've had this wine and past versions could be a bit blocky, like a Southwestern French wine or a Mondeuse. Well, this wasn't that. Bouncy and with silky fruit and nice floral and herbal notes. A bit of tannic chew, but while remaining a svelte middle weight. I liked the brambly berry and currant fruit and all of the savory notes underneath. Really went down super easy and was a perfect for the table. Now, if only it wasn't so hard to get and was cheaper. Oh well. (92 points)
2019 Morella Fiano Mezzogiorno - Italy, Puglia, Salento IGT (1/26/2021)
Straightforward, serviceable Fiano. Crisp and refreshing with a bit of stoniness. Will make a nice summer quaffer. (87 points)
2016 Ferdinando Principiano Barolo del Commune di Serralunga d'Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (1/27/2021)
I'm not sure that I've had this wine before so I found it really surprising and interesting. Soft and supple with lots of spice and savory notes around the macerated black cherries. Warm and supple on the palate and quite ready to drink now. A bit of tannin comes out but the overall impression is one of friendliness and accessibility. Like a lesser version of Roddolo or Canonica but still a pleasure. I'm really curious about the Ravera di Monforte now given the kinship I see with Roddolo (although the Roddolo Ravera 2012 is just now being released). A producer to watch, especially if you like this style. (91 points)
2018 Azienda Agricola Castaldi Francesca Uva Rara Valceresole - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Colline Novaresi (1/28/2021)
Really lifted and perfumed. Mostly rosewater and macerated cherries but also some savory bits. Really light in body and without a lot of structure. Steph liked it more than I did but it was a fun enough wine I'd be happy to drink at a restaurant. (87 points)
2018 Azienda Agricola Cirelli Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Anfora - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (1/28/2021)
This was a medium bodied take on Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. The black fruit is surrounded by leather and game notes with a savory snap. The palate is medium bodied with some stoniness on the finish. It's still a bit chewy and forthright. I'd be interested to try the "regular" version to see if it is bigger and that the anfora aging just scales some things back. I'd drink this again, especially with the right food. (89 points)
2016 Flavio Roddolo Dolcetto d'Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Dolcetto d'Alba (1/28/2021)
Similar to my last bottle but more chewy and reticent. I'm going to try to sit on the rest of my bottles for a year or so but I always say that. (89 points)
2014 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Grézeaux - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon (1/29/2021)
Not a flashy showing and looks to need more time to smooth out. All of the classic Grézeaux notes of tilled dark earth, tobacco and dark stone fruit are there, everything just seems to be held a bit in reserve. Not overly tannic but seemed sullen. It may have been the juxtaposition with the exuberant Lapalu that made it seem more reserved than it would in another setting with a different meal. (91 points)
2019 Domaine des Hauts Baigneux Touraine Les Chênes - France, Loire Valley, Touraine (1/29/2021)
This is my second vintage of this wine but you can see the kinship with the 2016. The color is on the golden side and it shows some oxidative élévage notes but is not oxidized itself. It has that curious burnt sugar thing around the edges that one can get from Chenin and often Romorantin. Not sure what the rs level is here, but I would guess tendre. Some mineral structure to the yellow fruits and a hint of flowers. This should be pretty decent value and I'll be drinking it again. (90 points)
2019 Jean-Claude Lapalu Côte de Brouilly - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Côte de Brouilly (1/29/2021)
Beautiful ruby color and a lovely berry scented spring meadow of a nose. Really buoyant and snappy with crush-rock acidity propping up the juicy red berry fruits and flowers. Delicious and went down really quickly. (92 points)
1999 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (1/30/2021)
Well, shoot. While this was still very good, it was still a bit tight. Classically proportioned and balanced showing pretty floral notes over pure red cherry notes with creeping, dusty tannins. Decanted a few hours before dinner and followed over the evening it didn't seem to budge all that much. More savory notes emerged underneath, almost like a dried beef leathery quality but tasted better than that sounds. I have no idea exactly when this will be in its prime drinking window and I only have one more bottle, so I guess I'll wait another 7-10 years or maybe sell it if goes over $1K or something. (92 points)
1999 Flavio Roddolo Barolo Ravera - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (1/30/2021)
Such a bummer. This has been my first bad bottle of Roddolo. Purchased on the secondary market with a cork in decent enough shape, though imperfect. I can't tell if the wine is shot or it is just this bottle and it is my only one. A recent 1997 was very good so hopefully there are good bottles out there somewhere. (NR/flawed)
2016 Luigi Baudana Barolo Cerretta - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (1/30/2021)
Got a bottle to try and did so over a week or so, which is not my normal thing. It really barely budged for days first put back in the fridge and then open on the kitchen table. A reticent, dense wine. Chewy, savory tannins preclude all the but faintest of fruit notes coming through. This blossoms more as it opens but never truly unfolds. While I wouldn't call this "old school" in the strictest sense, this is Barolo as I remember it structurally, although cleaner and more precise. Should blossom in bottle and I will cellar a few. (91 points)
2019 Stein St. Aldegunder Palmberg-Terrassen Riesling Kabinett trocken - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (1/31/2021)
This was intense and severe in the best way. There was very little fruit and what was there was encased in a hard crystal shell. Salt-lick type minerals completely coat the palate. Dense but still bright and elegant. My only point of comparison in2019 is the Falkenstein #1 Mutter Anna which was more gentle, if you can believe it. Also, this has more density. I have no idea what the long term trajectory is here but I'll *try* to wait a couple more years to drink another bottle, since I only was able to get a few, to see if the fruit comes out. (91 points)
2018 Domaine Gramenon Côtes du Rhône L'Elementaire - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône (1/21/2021)
Spice and grilled Provençal herbs over berry and cherry fruit. Dusty tannins frame the finish. Exactly what I want CDR to be. The only whinge is that I feel like I've had bottles with a touch more exuberance to the fruit. (89 points)
2016 Domaine du Collier Saumur Blanc - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (1/21/2021)
Consistent with my last bottle except maybe this showed even younger. There is a kiss of wood which may be a detraction for others but I find it perfectly in place. This is a dense ball of fruit encased in minerals with an outer coating of beeswax. You almost have to chew the minerals on the finish. I think aged versions of this will be genius. I hope I have enough to keep me from drinking them all before they get there. (92 points)
2008 Sylvie Esmonin (Michel et Fille) Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (1/22/2021)
Consistent with the trajectory that was evident from my last bottle in late 2018. This still screams Gevrey, with that earthy, animal-mineral dark fruits. There may be a touch more elegance and everything may be a bit more spread out. I think it is just shy of really unfurling into its best self. Maybe that's just a year or two from now. (92 points)
2014 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Cailles - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru (1/23/2021)
While this is a bit of a baby, I wanted a young Burgundy and Chevillon Cailles almost always shows well. This had a really supple texture with wood spice framing the myriad red fruit, which was a bit clenched on itself. It has that herbal/fruit thing that Tanzer calls medicinal reserve. Destined to be another in a long line of excellent Chevillon Cailles given a few more years to unfurl. I think 3-5 years will show marked improvement and maybe put it squarely in an opportune window. (91 points)
2015 Brendan Stater-West Saumur Les Chapaudaises - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (1/23/2021)
My first stab at a Brendan Stater-West with even a little bit of age. This may have been his first vintage with this wine. This shows a sweet tart style of Chenin with a nice dose of mineral tension. It lacks a middle to bring things together in a cohesive whole; however, this was promising enough that I might buy a couple of bottles of the current vintage to lay down to see what happens. (90 points)
2013 Arnot-Roberts Cabernet Sauvignon Montecillo Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County (1/24/2021)
Ouch. This did not want to be opened at all. Really a throwback wine. Reminded me of mountain Cabernet from the 1980s. Lots of things going on besides fruit but mostly a wall of tannin. Didn't ever budge. Certainly the raw material for excellence. (90 points)
2018 Ferme de la Sansonnière (Mark Angeli) Les Gelinettes - France, Vin de France (1/24/2021)
After being kicked in the teeth by the Arnot-Roberts this was a bouncy mouthful of joyful Cabernet, but Sauvignon, from Anjou. It's been years since I've had this wine and past versions could be a bit blocky, like a Southwestern French wine or a Mondeuse. Well, this wasn't that. Bouncy and with silky fruit and nice floral and herbal notes. A bit of tannic chew, but while remaining a svelte middle weight. I liked the brambly berry and currant fruit and all of the savory notes underneath. Really went down super easy and was a perfect for the table. Now, if only it wasn't so hard to get and was cheaper. Oh well. (92 points)
2019 Morella Fiano Mezzogiorno - Italy, Puglia, Salento IGT (1/26/2021)
Straightforward, serviceable Fiano. Crisp and refreshing with a bit of stoniness. Will make a nice summer quaffer. (87 points)
2016 Ferdinando Principiano Barolo del Commune di Serralunga d'Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (1/27/2021)
I'm not sure that I've had this wine before so I found it really surprising and interesting. Soft and supple with lots of spice and savory notes around the macerated black cherries. Warm and supple on the palate and quite ready to drink now. A bit of tannin comes out but the overall impression is one of friendliness and accessibility. Like a lesser version of Roddolo or Canonica but still a pleasure. I'm really curious about the Ravera di Monforte now given the kinship I see with Roddolo (although the Roddolo Ravera 2012 is just now being released). A producer to watch, especially if you like this style. (91 points)
2018 Azienda Agricola Castaldi Francesca Uva Rara Valceresole - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Colline Novaresi (1/28/2021)
Really lifted and perfumed. Mostly rosewater and macerated cherries but also some savory bits. Really light in body and without a lot of structure. Steph liked it more than I did but it was a fun enough wine I'd be happy to drink at a restaurant. (87 points)
2018 Azienda Agricola Cirelli Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Anfora - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (1/28/2021)
This was a medium bodied take on Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. The black fruit is surrounded by leather and game notes with a savory snap. The palate is medium bodied with some stoniness on the finish. It's still a bit chewy and forthright. I'd be interested to try the "regular" version to see if it is bigger and that the anfora aging just scales some things back. I'd drink this again, especially with the right food. (89 points)
2016 Flavio Roddolo Dolcetto d'Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Dolcetto d'Alba (1/28/2021)
Similar to my last bottle but more chewy and reticent. I'm going to try to sit on the rest of my bottles for a year or so but I always say that. (89 points)
2014 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Grézeaux - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon (1/29/2021)
Not a flashy showing and looks to need more time to smooth out. All of the classic Grézeaux notes of tilled dark earth, tobacco and dark stone fruit are there, everything just seems to be held a bit in reserve. Not overly tannic but seemed sullen. It may have been the juxtaposition with the exuberant Lapalu that made it seem more reserved than it would in another setting with a different meal. (91 points)
2019 Domaine des Hauts Baigneux Touraine Les Chênes - France, Loire Valley, Touraine (1/29/2021)
This is my second vintage of this wine but you can see the kinship with the 2016. The color is on the golden side and it shows some oxidative élévage notes but is not oxidized itself. It has that curious burnt sugar thing around the edges that one can get from Chenin and often Romorantin. Not sure what the rs level is here, but I would guess tendre. Some mineral structure to the yellow fruits and a hint of flowers. This should be pretty decent value and I'll be drinking it again. (90 points)
2019 Jean-Claude Lapalu Côte de Brouilly - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Côte de Brouilly (1/29/2021)
Beautiful ruby color and a lovely berry scented spring meadow of a nose. Really buoyant and snappy with crush-rock acidity propping up the juicy red berry fruits and flowers. Delicious and went down really quickly. (92 points)
1999 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (1/30/2021)
Well, shoot. While this was still very good, it was still a bit tight. Classically proportioned and balanced showing pretty floral notes over pure red cherry notes with creeping, dusty tannins. Decanted a few hours before dinner and followed over the evening it didn't seem to budge all that much. More savory notes emerged underneath, almost like a dried beef leathery quality but tasted better than that sounds. I have no idea exactly when this will be in its prime drinking window and I only have one more bottle, so I guess I'll wait another 7-10 years or maybe sell it if goes over $1K or something. (92 points)
1999 Flavio Roddolo Barolo Ravera - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (1/30/2021)
Such a bummer. This has been my first bad bottle of Roddolo. Purchased on the secondary market with a cork in decent enough shape, though imperfect. I can't tell if the wine is shot or it is just this bottle and it is my only one. A recent 1997 was very good so hopefully there are good bottles out there somewhere. (NR/flawed)
2016 Luigi Baudana Barolo Cerretta - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (1/30/2021)
Got a bottle to try and did so over a week or so, which is not my normal thing. It really barely budged for days first put back in the fridge and then open on the kitchen table. A reticent, dense wine. Chewy, savory tannins preclude all the but faintest of fruit notes coming through. This blossoms more as it opens but never truly unfolds. While I wouldn't call this "old school" in the strictest sense, this is Barolo as I remember it structurally, although cleaner and more precise. Should blossom in bottle and I will cellar a few. (91 points)
2019 Stein St. Aldegunder Palmberg-Terrassen Riesling Kabinett trocken - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (1/31/2021)
This was intense and severe in the best way. There was very little fruit and what was there was encased in a hard crystal shell. Salt-lick type minerals completely coat the palate. Dense but still bright and elegant. My only point of comparison in2019 is the Falkenstein #1 Mutter Anna which was more gentle, if you can believe it. Also, this has more density. I have no idea what the long term trajectory is here but I'll *try* to wait a couple more years to drink another bottle, since I only was able to get a few, to see if the fruit comes out. (91 points)
