TN: Covid-19 era wines (November 2020 - March 2021)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
At home. Soon to change, I hope.

==> Fizz.

Raventos i Blanc 2017 Conca Del Riu Anoia "de Nit" - no, it's not cava, but it's not even a little interesting, either

Pinon 2015 Vouvray Brut Non-Dose - salty apricots, its middle-age is upon it with just a hint of overt sweetness and cooked-fruit flavors, fizz is still strong, great bottle

==> Sweet.

Huet 1996 Vouvray Moelleux "Le Mont" "1ere Trie" - just glorious... honey and apricots and tangy acidity, finish lasts forever, my salivary glands run with glee, bouquet not as forward but same aromas

Dow 1994 Vintage Port - smooth as silk, medium-sweet, a very good bottle

Warre 1994 Vintage Port - shows a bit more spirity and a little less sweet; it develops a bit with time open but remains rather foursquare and unexciting the whole way

Fonseca 2000 Vintage Port - musty for the first few minutes, even after decanting off the sediment, but wakes up cleanly; tense, dark fruit, moderately sweet, not showing its alcohol at all

Warre's 2008 Late Bottled Vintage - yup

Tinou (Serge Hondet) 2016 Jurancon Cuvee Speciale - I can see why people say pineapple as a descriptor but it isn't really right: there is a tangy but slightly musky taste; beautifully judged ripeness and sweetness... it's definitely dessert but there is no chance of a diabetic seizure; not quite all the way to meditation wine but way better than gulping wine; Day 6: still sound, nose is fuller and fruitier, lime and sweet lemon, still just-so sweet and pleasant

==> Italian.

Vajra, G D 2018 Langhe Nebbiolo "Clare JC" - oh wow, profusely aromatic cran-cherry but light and bright like Alto Piemonte; my partner, who is no fan of dry reds, says he can smell it across the room and declares it, "interesting"; not shy on alcohol but so much flavor I have no objection; Day 3: much the same but flavors have lost redness in favor of plummy blackness
=> second bottle about the same

Vietti 2016 Barolo "Castiglione" - known to drink well young and it does; not gonna change your life but a good glass of wine

La Cantina di Cuneaz Nadir 2016 Rosso Vallee d'Aoste "Badebec" - no windex this time, nice mountain wine with a dark-fruited profile, I may just need to keep buying this

Cincinnato 2015 Nero Buono "Ercole" - good dark color, clear and bright, tannic at first but then it relents to a midpalate of silk and a delicate suggestion of roses and resin

Montesecondo 2015 Chianti Classico - just like it should be, can I still get more?, cherries, a little early in the season so still a bit tart but recognizably the fruit of summer; the finish is a little darker and a little furry; can I still get more?

La Casaccia 2007 Grignolino del Monferratro Casalese "Poggeto" - cork snapped in half, first whiff is pure Robitussin... bleh, with air, however, this changes over to something bright, tangy, still kinda cooked strawberry (not quite to cranberry in grabby-dark-red-ness) with some wet earth showing, is this what happens to good grignolino after 13 years? it's a hella match with boeuf bourguignon, the acidity cuts the rich sauce while the late-arriving earthiness finds the Maillard-y beef; Oliver McCrum selection, 12.5%, I hope WineBid has some more of this!

Giovanni Rosso 2018 Langhe Nebbiolo - a little reticent at first, and not tasting much like itself, but after a half hour becomes recognizably nebbiolo, crisp and clear, good sub-$20 bottle

==> French.

Girardin 1999 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er "Les Cazetiers" - from my early vinous days, before I really knew what an Overripe-Overoaked Horror was (the domain changed styles in 2007 when they got a new winemaker; Giradin sold the domain itself to his business partner in 2012); I pulled this bottle out of storage because of an encouraging experience in 2019 with his Clos Saint-Denis; rather tertiary... sous-bois, dark red fruit, mild acidity, clearly weary from the oak treatment but works better with a pot roast than by itself

Desvignes 2019 Morgon "Corcelettes" - smoky, somewhat tannic, blue fruit (plums, blackberries), savory (almost salty), taut, kinda like a Northern Rhone syrah but with a tad sweeter undertow

Texier 2010 Cotes-du-Rhone "Brezeme" Vieille Serine (Dom Pergaud) - incredibly youthful, no strike that, immortal... recognizable Brezeme flavors of Juicy-Fruit gum over vivid syrah blue fruit; Day 3, another glass, I can smell it from 3 feet away, the aroma hints at sweetness while the palate is dry (and full)

Thierry Richoux 2014 Irancy "Les Cailles" - ethereal Burgundy nose of cherry-berry fruit graced with rose and bouquet garni; the palate, however, is a bit coarse on texture and light on flavor; with air, the nose remains typique and the palate moves in an Oregonian direction: bright, lifted, elegant, yet still kinda skimpy; Day 2: the palate has filled-in quite a lot, a classic Villages, well worth having on a weeknight

A La Tache 2010 St-Joseph "Cuvee Badel" - N. Rhone syrah, as clear as day, in a perfect state of tertiary decline... softly-simmered beef, strewn with violets, 10 years is the mark for these guys

==> American.

Scherrer 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, Scherrer Vineyard - 375ml; pull the cork and get hit in the face with an incredibly powerful blast of tight, phenolic, pyrazinic cab aromas; five minutes later, the beast has left and there is a pure, sturdy, fruity cab; here and there it's translucent and offers some hillside earth tones; drinks very young even at 10 years of age; works with my winter dinner of lamb chops, roast squash, and pan-fried potatoes, though I'll admit I had expected to like it more

Arterberry Maresh 2014 Dundee Hills - not the marquee cuvee but a lesser one; shockingly rough and rustic, sweet but deeply-pitched 'blue' flavors, totally not what I was expecting! Day 5: this has changed for the better, more of the red-fruit Oregon profile but balanced with the earthy/blue thing

==> Misc.

Birgit Eichinger 2019 Ried Hasel, Gruner Veltliner - 12.5%, Day 1: vigorous and effusive, dry but fruity, an eager puppy; Day 4: a little more settled so now I can taste it better, varietally true, has the hint of bitterness that matches well with food, it's still a little simple but fine for a low-end white

Meinklang 2018 Burgenland Weisser "Mulatschak" - sweetly delicate Gewurzish nose, more assertive in the pie-hole with a slightly sour twang, works really well at the table but a bit lightweight on its own

==> Cheapies.

Quaderna Via 2019 Navarra Tinto - "Be Bike", "The Monovarietal Route", "Made with Organic Grapes", Graciano - young, fruity, it's wine

Asconi 2020 This is a "cheap dry white to cook with..." - "...it's also a sempervirent wine.", pinot gris from Moldova, 12.5%, $8, I've had worse wines for $12, gotta tell ya

Ch. Les Gravieres de la Brandille 2016 Bordeaux Supérieur - yes, a $13 bottle of wine from 4 vintages ago, bought for cooking, I'll admit, 65/20/15 merlot/cab/franc from 40-year-old vines outside St.-Emilion, 13.5%, a Willie Gluckstern selection(!), like the label sez
 
I was inspired by this post to open one of the 2013s that languish unappreciated downstairs. I was also struck by its Alto character, Carema-ish. It still had some of the residual CO2 that is its calling card, and which I found off-putting at a younger age. The aromatics are the opposite of shy. High-toned, well-conceived nebbiolo. I wonder what TJ would have thought.
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
I have two bottles of that Dow Port. Drink up? Or drink or hold?
Assuming the bottle is in good shape, drink and hold. But, really, at age 25, it's OK to tuck in.
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
We won't know if the wine is dead or alive until we open the bottle. Profound.
More precisely, the wine is both alive and dead until you pull the cork, at which point it is forced into one of those two states. We’ll have to think about what a Coravin means in this context.

Mark Lipton
 
Pedants in the pants,
No doubt that is why you dance,
Wine alive and dead.


OK, so not the world's best haiku but look what I've got to work with....
 
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