Florida Jim
Florida Jim
Impressions 4-21-21
2019 Dirty & Rowdy, Mourvèdre Evangelho Vineyard - Hardy says to decant this for awhile or wait a couple years - I can’t fault him for his advice and, in the future, will follow it.
But I remember being in his winery in November of 2014 when the New York City boyz came to taste; I tagged along. Lots of wine from bottle and then barrel samples, including the first barrel of D&R Evangelho. All were good, some eye opening and then there was that barrel (only one barrel, I think). A partial thief of Evangelho in my glass and then “the look” amongst us. It seemed as good a red wine as I’d ever tasted. I decided then that I would buy this forever. So while I appreciate his advice and have no doubt of its efficacy, I needed my barrel sample.
And this, like every vintage, is the shit. What red wine should taste like.
Buy all you can; ‘you decide you don’t want it, I’ll buy it from you.
Promise.
2017 Vincent, Pinot Gris - clairet in color, evidence of skin contact in the texture but still fruit forward and little phenolic hit on the nose or palate. I’d say Vince walked a fine line with this wine and it worked. The fruit is cherry, the structure is evident and the wine likely could do with time - but this is my only bottle so . . . even better on day two.
2019 Birichino, Cinsault Bechthold Vineyard - fresh off the truck and every bit as pretty and, admittedly, undeveloped as expected. A yearly purchase, a lovely wine and Diane is always happy when it’s opened. What more?
2016 Goodfellow, Pinot Noir Whistling Ridge - concentrated, powerful Pinot which, although I appreciate the effort, does not rev my engine. It’s sort of sullen and displeased that you opened it and there is a heaviness in its delivery. It’s well-made and balanced but this needs to lay down for 3-5 years in my opinion. Everything is there but I can’t get at it just yet.
2019 Dirty & Rowdy, Syrah Brousseau Vineyard - while young, this drinks well now. Pieces of Cote Rotie, St. Joseph and Evangelho are suggested on the nose and the taste seems a fine amalgamation of the three, light in weight but intense, good fruit but the complexity intrigues, and, a whole lot of promise even as I’m loving it now. Expressive, layered, exuberant juice and wonderful with roast pork. Wow!
2018 Louis Michel, Montee de Tonnerre - approachable now, aromatically place driven; beautiful balance and delineated across the palate. No doubt this will take on weight and complexity with time but catch it now, if you can, to feast on what the vineyard can do in its youth. Lovely wine.
2018 Blood Root, Pinot Noir - cepage from diverse vineyards in Sonoma County but, today, simple and a touch too sweet. Might be good with aging.
2016 Chanin, Pinot Noir Sanford & Benedict Vineyard - I like Santa Rita Hills terroir and, especially, in Pinot Noir - this has the signature of the land, the balance to see it through aging and the promise of more. Today it is an infant; tomorrow, who knows?
(But this is as bad a packaging as I’ve ever seen. The label appears to have a black Klu Klux Klansman in profile - who could possibly think this was good branding?)
2015 Black Trumpet, Syrah Sonoma Coast (red capsule) - from the Charles Heintz Vineyard this was true to its place and vintage but pretty quiet. Balanced, integrated and well-made but somebody turned down the volume. Maybe time will help; I’ll let the rest of my bottles rest.
2013 Vincent, Pinot Blanc - I don’t often try Vincent wines with some age on them and this was a treat. At 8 the fruit has broadened some and the integration of fruit and structure is complete making the shape of this wine rounder and fuller even while the weight has stayed light and delicate. It’s a joy and an learning moment, to drink now.
Best, jim
2019 Dirty & Rowdy, Mourvèdre Evangelho Vineyard - Hardy says to decant this for awhile or wait a couple years - I can’t fault him for his advice and, in the future, will follow it.
But I remember being in his winery in November of 2014 when the New York City boyz came to taste; I tagged along. Lots of wine from bottle and then barrel samples, including the first barrel of D&R Evangelho. All were good, some eye opening and then there was that barrel (only one barrel, I think). A partial thief of Evangelho in my glass and then “the look” amongst us. It seemed as good a red wine as I’d ever tasted. I decided then that I would buy this forever. So while I appreciate his advice and have no doubt of its efficacy, I needed my barrel sample.
And this, like every vintage, is the shit. What red wine should taste like.
Buy all you can; ‘you decide you don’t want it, I’ll buy it from you.
Promise.
2017 Vincent, Pinot Gris - clairet in color, evidence of skin contact in the texture but still fruit forward and little phenolic hit on the nose or palate. I’d say Vince walked a fine line with this wine and it worked. The fruit is cherry, the structure is evident and the wine likely could do with time - but this is my only bottle so . . . even better on day two.
2019 Birichino, Cinsault Bechthold Vineyard - fresh off the truck and every bit as pretty and, admittedly, undeveloped as expected. A yearly purchase, a lovely wine and Diane is always happy when it’s opened. What more?
2016 Goodfellow, Pinot Noir Whistling Ridge - concentrated, powerful Pinot which, although I appreciate the effort, does not rev my engine. It’s sort of sullen and displeased that you opened it and there is a heaviness in its delivery. It’s well-made and balanced but this needs to lay down for 3-5 years in my opinion. Everything is there but I can’t get at it just yet.
2019 Dirty & Rowdy, Syrah Brousseau Vineyard - while young, this drinks well now. Pieces of Cote Rotie, St. Joseph and Evangelho are suggested on the nose and the taste seems a fine amalgamation of the three, light in weight but intense, good fruit but the complexity intrigues, and, a whole lot of promise even as I’m loving it now. Expressive, layered, exuberant juice and wonderful with roast pork. Wow!
2018 Louis Michel, Montee de Tonnerre - approachable now, aromatically place driven; beautiful balance and delineated across the palate. No doubt this will take on weight and complexity with time but catch it now, if you can, to feast on what the vineyard can do in its youth. Lovely wine.
2018 Blood Root, Pinot Noir - cepage from diverse vineyards in Sonoma County but, today, simple and a touch too sweet. Might be good with aging.
2016 Chanin, Pinot Noir Sanford & Benedict Vineyard - I like Santa Rita Hills terroir and, especially, in Pinot Noir - this has the signature of the land, the balance to see it through aging and the promise of more. Today it is an infant; tomorrow, who knows?
(But this is as bad a packaging as I’ve ever seen. The label appears to have a black Klu Klux Klansman in profile - who could possibly think this was good branding?)
2015 Black Trumpet, Syrah Sonoma Coast (red capsule) - from the Charles Heintz Vineyard this was true to its place and vintage but pretty quiet. Balanced, integrated and well-made but somebody turned down the volume. Maybe time will help; I’ll let the rest of my bottles rest.
2013 Vincent, Pinot Blanc - I don’t often try Vincent wines with some age on them and this was a treat. At 8 the fruit has broadened some and the integration of fruit and structure is complete making the shape of this wine rounder and fuller even while the weight has stayed light and delicate. It’s a joy and an learning moment, to drink now.
Best, jim
